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Initial Impressions of the TM SOPMOD M4 AEG

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Damn. Just as I had decided I was happy with my recoil gun and the upgrade cravings had settled down... and now you've show me that link.

Must resist - but a new reciever would make me the best airsofter that has ever lived.

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Now I'm even more annoyed because the RS Rainier recievers only have the mountain logos on the front/left with the billet style lowers, the normal USGI shape forged lowers are blank on the front and left of the magwells, so OCT have going to all that effort to create a faithful replica type product of something that doesn't exist.

 

Gah...

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I just picked up a CQB SOPMOD recently.

 

Its nice, kicks nicely, but have a few gripes.

 

- Plastic is just ABS. far far cry from the other FRP and more wear resistant plastics.

- Alu receiver and RIS seems very crudely finished compared with G&Ps and VFCs

- Accuracy, while it shoots straight and consistent, it lacks the power to have suitable carrying range.

- 2 piece barrel for a Marui???

- The front sight is off centre a little, shooting to the right.

 

Not perfect, but for an electric it is punchy and consistent, but falls behind in the game compared with other more modern manufacturers...

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Hey all, having some trouble with my sopmod and i'm not sure what's causing it.

 

So, after managing to get mine shooting 355 with a e6 m90 (don't ask, don't know how), I drilled a small hole in the jet nozzle to lower the fps.  This did the trick, now at 330ish, however it's now double feeding sometimes.  Enough that it's annoying and an issue, not the odd shot.

 

Any ideas?  My only thought is that the nozzle is now sticking in the hop, thus allowing more bb's to move into the chamber.

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Coming back off a long airsoft hiatus (can't believe I registered here over 10 years ago) and have a few questions about the Next Gen M4 series as I'll likely dive into these.

 

I have a couple of questions that reading a few dozen pages on this thread haven't answered:

 

1) Mosfet: BTC Spectres appear sold out everywhere. Is it possible to stick a regular mosfet in a SOPMOD? I see some people have done it right behind the gearbox, above the grip. Others route it all the way to the crane stock. Any recommended third-party mosfets besides the Spectre? 

 

2) Outer barrels: are the outer barrels on the M4 design EBBs compatible with regular V2 M4 third party outer barrels, or do I need EBB-specific barrels?

 

3) Inner barrels: will I be able to use any stock AEG inner barrel with the Marui EBB system?

 

4) Re-routing to deans: I can just bypass the stock battery system and run electrical wiring to deans connectors and plug those into my crane stock, right? In that case, will I need to use a third party crane stock since the stock TM batteries have plastic pieces that make up the crane stock battery tube?

 

Thanks!

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I'm not sure about 1 and 4 because I prefer the front-wired variants and I managed to nab a Spectre.  But you do need recoil-line specific outer barrels due to the way the base area is shaped to mate with the upper; I may have seen some standard ones used (or heard of it anyway) but it takes a lot of machining.  Inner barrels are quite standard luckily.

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1) Mosfet: BTC Spectres appear sold out everywhere. Is it possible to stick a regular mosfet in a SOPMOD? [...] Any recommended third-party mosfets besides the Spectre?

 

Honestly? Wait for a BTC Spectre. They are head-and-shoulders above the competition, and they are in batch production - you just have to wait for the next batch, which shouldn't be more than a couple of months away at most. Sign up to be notified the next time they're in stock on BTC's website, and e-mail Frank to ask him when the next release is planned for.

 

2) Outer barrels: are the outer barrels on the M4 design EBBs compatible with regular V2 M4 third party outer barrels, or do I need EBB-specific barrels?

 

The Recoil Shocks have a specific barrel type and a specific hop-up unit. You should either use Recoil Shock barrels (there is a small aftermarket selection), or get a machinist to adapt a two-piece (Guarder or Madbull) barrel to the Recoil Shock specification. While you're at it you should ditch the rather crappy faux barrel nut system; it will accept any normal barrel nut.

 

3) Inner barrels: will I be able to use any stock AEG inner barrel with the Marui EBB system?

Any normal AEG inner should fit.

 

4) Re-routing to deans: I can just bypass the stock battery system and run electrical wiring to deans connectors and plug those into my crane stock, right? In that case, will I need to use a third party crane stock since the stock TM batteries have plastic pieces that make up the crane stock battery tube?

You can use the original TM stock once you've stripped the contact bar system out. That said, it is made of ABS and you can easily get stocks made of nicer materials.

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Just upgraded mine with:

- SHS Steel gears

- deans connector

- short M120 (stock springs from the JG M4s, which are shortened M120s giving around 380fps in a normal v2 mech)

- systema magnum

- nunchuk 7.4v 2000mah 20C.

 

Rate of fire is around 18rps on a 7.4v, due to the Systema Magnum.  FPS is around 440fps.  Hop up + accuracy isn't as good as some of the guns I have had in the past but its skirmishable.

 

Solved the front sight offset issue, turns out to be a tolerance issue with the outer barrel aligning with the upper receiver, where the guide in the receiver which keeps the barrel aligned, was just  a bit too narrow, allowing the barrel to rotate.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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Just upgraded mine with:

- SHS Steel gears

- deans connector

- short M120 (stock springs from the JG M4s, which are shortened M120s giving around 380fps in a normal v2 mech)

- systema magnum

- nunchuk 7.4v 2000mah 20C.

 

Rate of fire is around 18rps on a 7.4v, due to the Systema Magnum.  FPS is around 440fps.  Hop up + accuracy isn't as good as some of the guns I have had in the past but its skirmishable.

 

Solved the front sight offset issue, turns out to be a tolerance issue with the outer barrel aligning with the upper receiver, where the guide in the receiver which keeps the barrel aligned, was just  a bit too narrow, allowing the barrel to rotate.

 

Doubtful that its a tolerance issue, the front sight is separate from the outer barrel, install the outer barrel then tighten the outer barrel castle nut with the correct tool making sure it is very tight.   with the inner barrel removed you can undo the front sight grub screw and tilt the front sight to what ever position you deem "straight" then tighten the grub screw.  you'll only be able to move it left or right a very mm but its probably enough to get it correct for you. 

 

If your not getting epic accuracy then there's something probably wrong.  that or you need to go up to heavier ammo because of your 440 fps...

 

FYI magnum motors with a metal end bell can be prone to arching on the metal base of the pistol grip, if you get blow fuses or hot motor issues it might be worth starting there with your fault finding.

Edited by Richard Y

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Doubtful that its a tolerance issue, the front sight is separate from the outer barrel, install the outer barrel then tighten the outer barrel castle nut with the correct tool making sure it is very tight.   with the inner barrel removed you can undo the front sight grub screw and tilt the front sight to what ever position you deem "straight" then tighten the grub screw.  you'll only be able to move it left or right a very mm but its probably enough to get it correct for you. 

 

If your not getting epic accuracy then there's something probably wrong.  that or you need to go up to heavier ammo because of your 440 fps...

 

FYI magnum motors with a metal end bell can be prone to arching on the metal base of the pistol grip, if you get blow fuses or hot motor issues it might be worth starting there with your fault finding.

 

 

Telling you now it is a tolerance issue, as I fixed it.  I fixed it not by tightening the nut on the stock barrel (you can't secure it on the stock barrel as it is clipped on with a steel C collar which rotates even after you tighten it).  I squished the cut on the barrel to make it tighter around the guide in the receiver, no more rotation.  Simple fix.  

 

I also changed the hop nub and sorted the hop inaccuracy issue.  Simple fix.  But yes anything with heavier ammo will shoot better but the instability with low ammo weight is suggestive of issues with the imperfections in the hop rubber and the barrel.  I am using 0.25g.

 

As for the Systema motor arching, of the 6 systema magnums I have had I have never experienced it.  However I did experience a number of loose pinions getting stuck in the mechbox, as it did happen with my newly upgraded M4.  Systema pinions are terrible.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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Further issues:

 

The Shortened M120 spring tension (at 450fps) is too strong for a 7.4v 2000mah on a systema motor, which is really weird considering its going 16-18rps.  Normally this configuration would pull an M130 fine on standard ratio gears, but it seems to be due to the gears being hi-speed rather than standard ratio.  

 

What is happening is that it is locking up at near the release point if I release the trigger half stroke.  I have to remove the stock tube to release the spring.

 

Since then I tested it without the blowback system and it is still locking up, which indicates that spring is too strong.  I clipped 1 rung off the spring and the lockup disappeared.  

 

Now the FPS is a 400fps with 0.2g or 350fps on 0.25g.  Low by my standards but combat usable.

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Yeah I am thinking double torque now.  The jamming issue gets apparent when battery has fired a few mags.  

 

Which is the cheapest torque gear option? I only see prometheus and thats not cheap.

 

Running a spring like that I would've grabbed torque gears tbh.

Hell I'm running double torques on 330fps at the moment, purely to drop the rate of fire on it.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

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Further issues:

 

The Shortened M120 spring tension (at 450fps) is too strong for a 7.4v 2000mah on a systema motor, which is really weird considering its going 16-18rps.  Normally this configuration would pull an M130 fine on standard ratio gears, but it seems to be due to the gears being hi-speed rather than standard ratio.  

 

What is happening is that it is locking up at near the release point if I release the trigger half stroke.  I have to remove the stock tube to release the spring.

 

Since then I tested it without the blowback system and it is still locking up, which indicates that spring is too strong.  I clipped 1 rung off the spring and the lockup disappeared.  

 

Now the FPS is a 400fps with 0.2g or 350fps on 0.25g.  Low by my standards but combat usable.

 

The next gen new v2 gearbox is shorter so it needs shorter springs.

 

http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/parts-upgrade-s/internal-parts-upgrade-s/int-tokyo-marui-next-generation-recoil-shock-series/ng-gearbox-main-spring.html

?

if you are going to cut your own always as a rule go larger and cut shorter, if you want more than 400 fps then get an even larger spring and cut it shorter!  your lock ups have nothing to do with gear ratio as that is standard its simply not enough room and the gearbox is doing way to much work.  remember there's a RECOIL system on it as well, and its only a 7.4v 2000mah battery. 

 

Monitor the battery life this is another clue as to whether the spring is still too long.  as well as using the eg1000 motor until your guns setup and working fine as the magnum motor will be driving through potential spring or shimming issues.

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Yeah I am thinking double torque now.  The jamming issue gets apparent when battery has fired a few mags.  

 

Which is the cheapest torque gear option? I only see prometheus and thats not cheap.

 

the only torque options come from Prometheus or seigetek

 

http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/parts-upgrade-s/internal-parts-upgrade-s/int-tokyo-marui-next-generation-recoil-shock-series/ng-gears-gear-sets.html

?

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The jamming issue is because the spring is too long and it's binding.

I've run 450fps springs on 14.1 ratio gears with a high torque motor no problems before, but the problem you're describing is 100% down to spring binding.

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I have checked for spring binding.  The spring is a shortened M120 and has no problems fitting into the piston while compressed.  Even cutting it still locks up on the 7.4v.  Using an 11.1v I bailed it out.  It IS a purely torque issue.

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been there done that .. trust us the spring is too long.. cut more off it.  ive ran sopmod m4 on a 1200 mah 7.4v at 450 fps with just shs gears and an shs hi torque motor... so yours certainly should be doing better. 

 

Remember just because it works doesn't mean its still not to tight either the shimming or the spring length..  the spring I used was fringing tiny.. it was shorter than a midgets penis but I used a cut down m170 I think if memory serves.

 

go big on the spring but cut it extra short. 

 

or order up one of my m120s that will get you 400 ish fps

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