Luis21 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Does anyone have a problem with the nozzle sometimes not moving back with the bolt carrier when the bolt locks back? The GHK mag I have locks the bolt carrier back consistently all the way, but sometimes the white nozzle itself only moves back partway, or barely at all. It's really random. It could be that the O-Ring nozzle is dry. Bathe it in silicone oil. Another possible issue could be that the rubber gas port on the mag(where the gas shoots out) sits too high and rubs against the bottom port of the loading nozzle. There's too much friction between them. If you're using GHK mags exclusively I'd sand down the loading nozzle port a bit. Lastly it could be that the return spring inside the loading nozzle that connects to the bolt carrier via C-Clip has lost tension over time. Try pulling the loading nozzle out of the bolt carrier manually and see how smooth the action is. Also, make sure that part #7, the clip the goes into the left side of the bolt carrier is in place. Make sure it's connected to the ridge that runs the length of the left side of the loading nozzle. They have to be mating. Make sure that the hop-up isn't too tight around the loading nozzle's nozzle. The hop-up shouldn't be too far back into the upper receiver. The back of your loading nozzle where it meets with part #2 should be 100% free of cracks or breakages. Anything that has a chance to protrude from the back of the loading nozzle will rub against the inside of the bolt carrier and it will stick. One of these problems or any of these combined will cause the loading nozzle to stick. Hope this helps, -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Man, I just opened my 1st generation AGM magazine for the first time and I can see why the thing is so heavy!!! The walls of the mag are just so thick!!! About 2mm. And the mag components are bricks too. Unlike the WE mags which are very light. Those are sheet metal with a cast metal gas resivoir. Plus the lead and who knows what other alloy in the AGM mags make it very heavy.... I like it though. Makes me feel like I don't need a secondary anymore... Just release the mag and throw it at people.... -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deepeyes Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Lol Luis, The thicker mag walls make me feel safer about the mags themselves. It's a lot of pressure close to your body. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Lol Luis, The thicker mag walls make me feel safer about the mags themselves. It's a lot of pressure close to your body. True. What would happen if 6 mags blew up in your vest pouches during a game? Call hit? -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FearMeansControl Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 Lol Luis, The thicker mag walls make me feel safer about the mags themselves. It's a lot of pressure close to your body. Glad to know I haven't been the only one thinking about that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FearMeansControl Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 double post... cool. the topic's totally different though, so maybe it's ok. or maybe i'm just a jerk. it's likely the latter. So as some of you may know, my upper receiver/front set combo has been giving me a headache since i've owned the gun. Blue loc-tite seems to have helped but I haven't let off a good number of rounds in a few days. Assuming this is no good, I was planning on doing the M16A4 conversion for $90 from gunner. I got thinking though, the DBoys M5 rail is $42, i can probably find an outer barrel for cheap as well. Then I remembered my lack of an A2 buttstock and the plan got blown to *fruitcage* That said, my plan is a new upper and a LaRue replica.. A few questions about it though: Would the LaRue replace my delta ring? Do the 7" Replica's fit on the AGM Uppers? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colazel Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 hi i just received my NPAS kit with the nozzle. i installed it but there is a small part in the bag that i dont know what is this. can you help me? here a pic Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) This is the flute valve! without that you have no NPAS xD Here you can see how to install it: Edited August 24, 2009 by DEVILHUNTER Quote Link to post Share on other sites
colazel Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 i think it's a spare part because i can use the NPAS tool to adjust it. i bought the plastic loading nozzle with NPAS installed, that why i think it's a spare part Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Looks good Coazel, thanks for sharing. -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Well I took the bolt carrier apart to see what was going on. The clip holding the spring that's supposed to pull the nozzle back into the carrier isn't there. Hmmm. No wonder the loading nozzle doesn't always come back. And the loading nozzle is really hard to move in and out of the carrier. I lubed it up and cleaned it out, it's not cracked anywhere, just really hard to push in and out for some reason. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Well I took the bolt carrier apart to see what was going on. The clip holding the spring that's supposed to pull the nozzle back into the carrier isn't there. Hmmm. No wonder the loading nozzle doesn't always come back. And the loading nozzle is really hard to move in and out of the carrier. I lubed it up and cleaned it out, it's not cracked anywhere, just really hard to push in and out for some reason. Definitely get a new C-clip for the back of the loading nozzle. Also, are you using the stock nozzle? -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 25, 2009 Report Share Posted August 25, 2009 Yup, stock nozzle and bolt carrier. Found a c-clip, but it still doesn't resolve the problem of the nozzle being really stubborn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Luis21 Posted August 26, 2009 Report Share Posted August 26, 2009 Yup, stock nozzle and bolt carrier. Found a c-clip, but it still doesn't resolve the problem of the nozzle being really stubborn. If it has no cracks and the o-ring isn't part of the problem then I'd check part #7 and make sure that it's not interfering with the loading nozzle's movement. Lube the rails. -Luis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
teflon don Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 (edited) a ball bearing hammer does it improve something (like rof fps durability) and those cheap acm hamers do they preform as well as those really expensive ratech ones Edited August 27, 2009 by teflon don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BorgWarrior_HUN Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Hi guys, I'd like to ask you, that does anyone has experience fitting a 5KU Steel Sear, 5KU steel hammer with 5 bearings, and a 5KU steel ambi selector into the AGM? Does these parts need any modifications to fit? GBBR newb here. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
teflon don Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 they should fit they designed for that gun Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnnyj Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 the ambi selector i have fits but is sloppy atm as the little indents that lock it are not as deep as the standard agm unit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MDK_Marshal Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 I have what SHOULD be the 5ku sear, it's an ACM steel one at any rate. Fits and works fine, drop-in fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 I'd like to ask you, that does anyone has experience fitting a 5KU Steel Sear, 5KU steel hammer with 5 bearings, and a 5KU steel ambi selector into the AGM? Does these parts need any modifications to fit? the chinese 5 bearing hammer fits fine and operates as it should, only real concern is how long the bearings will hold out for (they're pretty lightweight) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
teflon don Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 the chinese 5 bearing hammer fits fine and operates as it should so did it improve something Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 so did it improve something Its steel the AGM hammer is pot metal, less wear prone Quote Link to post Share on other sites
teflon don Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 (edited) but i mean the ball bearing thing did it improve rof or fps im considering buying the hammer from gunner but it looks crappy in theory the ball bearing should make the bolt move more freely (less friction against the hammer) and make the valve open faster but i don't feel like instaling new parst that might be worst (its kinda cheap if you compare it to ratech ) Edited August 27, 2009 by teflon don Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 the cheapy looks like ###### is poorly finished as far as sides of it go but its got proper profiles where it counts. If you wnt a nicer finish and more robust bearings go for the RAT part That said I honestly wouldnt buy either for the bearings Id buy it as one part of putting a completely steel fire control group together. If anything Id rather the cheapy shipped without bearings ie just a steel copy of the standard non-bearing hammer (avoids the bearings being an unneccessary failure point of anotherwise strong steel hammer) ROF, ease of racking the bolt carrier, gas consumption? not seen any appreciable difference between either of the bearing hammers (RAT and the cheapy) and the RAt three round burst hammer (whch is a totally non bearing hammer) Short of a chrono with a ROF calculator I doubt I ever would. At a pinch I can see there might be a benefit for the hammer axis pin (the bearings isolate it from the movement of the hammer) and it might take a little of the wear out of the base of the boltcarrier's blowback chamber (which is where the top bearig of the hammer has contact with bolt carrier) but thats about it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ruchik Posted August 29, 2009 Report Share Posted August 29, 2009 In order to use any of the KA Vltor metal body kits, do I have to use AEG front ends, or can I use the stock barrel/delta ring with the castle ring included in the package? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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