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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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ahh that explains the confusion. thanks for the rapid reply. Can anyone confirm that the 2nd version is available with and without trades?

 

The second version does come with and without trades. I ordered mine from evike. It has no trades but is the second version with steel bolt stop, anodized receiver, and greyish color mags.

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Good to know, thanks mate. I know of some retailers who sell the receivers with trades separately but Im not sure I want to be messing around with that.

 

Why not? It is very easy to change everything over to another receiver. I'll make sure there is a step-by-step guide on the wiki under the the modifications section.

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Ill correct myself: It can be "un PC" on this forum.

 

The last time I saw people showing/posting/mentioning how to convert real steel RECEIVER parts for airsoft use, the posts were deleted.

 

Wasn't it Arnies back in the day who wouldnt even allow you to post or mention a velocity (FPS) higher than 350fps? lol! Like some biblical law was broken!

 

I can understand that, after all, this is a UK forum, and their firearms regulations are IMO draconian (no offense to any proponents of gun control here). However, just to argue semantics, the upper receiver does not constitute a firearm, at least not under US law. From a strictly legal standpoint, it's no different from a slab of aluminum.

 

But good to know it can be done.

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^ Thanks Slu! And yes, it certainly can be done.

 

Kai,..

Glad you are getting it sorted out man!

 

BOOST!

Im going to hit you with a PM next - all registered and ready to roll!

 

You should be all set. Now we can really do some damage on this guide. Hopefully, with the help of a few other people, we can turn it into a central source of information for WEM4 owners...

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This is another link for lower receivers.

 

http://www.airsoft-war4.com/details.php?pid=4637

 

I'm hoping WE will start releasing more lowers with different trademarks. :)

 

 

The one thing I've read that is interesting is that the lower is based off a Systema version lower and that because of this a Real Steel upper will fit and work with modification.

 

What I want to know is if a Systema upper can be modified to work properly on the WE lower?

 

Something like this,

 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=25123

 

 

If anyone can find an answer to my question I would really appreciate it.

 

 

 

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For those interested here is an update on my newbie progress.

 

Both magazines leaked when first filled (no surprise there). I checked all valves/seals then applied silicone oil before leaving the mags filled for an hour or so. At that point they continued to leak.

 

As advised on this thread I used 1500 grit fine wet sandpaper (Halfords) to polish the tapered entrance on part #112 as best as I could with the part in situ (still don't have a D ring tool). This was smooth to touch when I had finished. Secured bolt #36 using Loctite 243 Lock 'N Seal (also Halfords). I noticed that when tightening bolt #36 part #38 did not align correctly so I removed the part and double checked seal #37 carefully checking the alignment whilst tightening. I seem to recall this being mentioned at some point, has anyone else seen this? Has anyone got better advice for alignment?

 

I have cycled around eight 30 round mags so far using semi and manual 3/4 shot bursts on auto. Emptied one full mag on auto. All 30 rounds fired but cool down occurred I guess around 20 to 25 (this was indoors and the temp. should be around 19 degrees c). It would be nice to know if this is normal or if additional tweaks can remove or reduce this further.

 

One of my two mags refused to catch the bolt stop on empty. I removed the outer mag casing and checked the selector switch movement, this was not fully back and hence the stop was lower than required. I corrected this but upon replacing the casing found it interfered with the switch. It was fairly easy to manipulate the casing over this without affecting the selector again. I suspect if I turn off the bolt stop action on this mag with the casing on I would be unable to set it back to on without following this same process again. Not a problem since I will always want the bolt stop to work. I have checked the wear on part #122 a number of times during testing and it looks just fine. Charging handle also fine.

 

So back to the mag leaks. One mag stopped leaking after the first 30 rounds, the second continued to leak but at some point during testing stopped. Both are currently partially filled and have been shaken about, no leaks anywhere. With my WE SV Infinity I keep mags with some gas as the seals fail if not, what's the best plan for the WE mags and why?

 

I never thought my virgin full auto smile would ever come back. I have fired the WA M4 and the recoil on my WE M4 AFC blows that to dust using the low power configuration.

 

Sorry for the long post, best stop for now... :D

Edited by Marky [UE]
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Thanks for your kind comment but I don't deserve the credit. All I did was spend time reading all 100 odd pages in an attempt to understand the more experienced members of this thread. They spend a huge amount of time here sharing their knowledge and experience and I certainly owe them a huge thank you. I suspect they have saved me a lot of hassle.

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As I mentioned above

 

polish the tapered entrance on part #112 as best as I could with the part in situ (still don't have a D ring tool)

 

Since I can't remove it from the upper at the moment due to a lack of tools I had to do the best I could. I will double check everything again when my tool arrives from AB.

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Good job Marky!

 

Ive been swamped at work, but should be free by the weekend. I plan to work on the wiki post.

 

I will do pics and a description concerning tightening and locktiting down bolt #36.

 

The tube will lean (not centered) on your first try. You need to keep loosening and then rotating the black tube to get it centered. Each time, eyeballing it from the front of the bolt carrier.

 

The o-ring doesnt compress evenly, this is why it will lean. It has nothing to do with the black tube not being cut square, it is. By rotating and retightening, you will eventaully get it straight and centered. You will find the 'sweet spot'.

 

More on the wiki post. ;)

 

 

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Hey guys, I need to ask a question I possibly asked before. Can anyone confirm if the bb is in fact stopped by the green hop up rubber of part 117? Ive had mixed results and I am wondering if my 117 part is defective. William has stated their hop up units work fine, so I cant seem to find out what the issue is. Can anyone do a test and check for me? See where the bb actually stops at?

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Hi Kai

In my gun (and my Escort powered SHOEI MP44's - and the WE is a modified Escort system) the bb absolutely stops against the hop rubber (In this case the green dot)

 

Part 117 (What william calls a bucking) has several small lips on its inner surface......it serves to seal the chamber/breech, and to slow the bb, but not trap it.

 

 

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That makes me wonder, however, when Ive turned off the hop up all the way, there seems to be no green dot protruding at all. I am speaking of when my first hopup was still in tact. When I turned it off all the way, bb's would not spill out as they do now. That, I dont understand. If the bb's are held in by the green dot, wouldnt they roll out if I decided to turn the hop up all the way off? Sorry for the question, I just want to isolate the issue so I know what to buy. It is very frustrating lol.

 

 

Hi Kai

In my gun (and my Escort powered SHOEI MP44's - and the WE is a modified Escort system) the bb absolutely stops against the hop rubber (In this case the green dot)

 

Part 117 (What william calls a bucking) has several small lips on its inner surface......it serves to seal the chamber/breech, and to slow the bb, but not trap it.

 

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