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WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine


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Heres my latest custom job, a WE GBBR version of a Colt Slab Sides Carbine. If anyone knows a pla ce that could machine me a proper outer barrel, I would like to get in contact with them and have a pr

Heres my custom WE M733. I have a modified RS Bushmaster upper receiver as well as RS buffer tube, castle nut, stock, stock plate, pistol grip, front grips, front sight, and some various other small b

Hehehe, Im with you Hwagan. I dumped my LM4 like a bad habit a few months ago and switched back to the WE platform. Used the extra money to get myself a trademarked M16, slapped a RS A2 upper receiver

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Phew,

 

Airsoftbuddy shipped promptly but boy has it taken a stressful few weeks to get the customs side of things sorted. That being said I don't have a UKARA membership since I only play events organised by a legal but non UKARA registered site. I would imagine the whole hoop jumping legal process is a lot simpler if you have a UKARA membership number.

 

04-02-2009 04:34 xxxxxxxxx Depot Awaiting payment of charges

04-02-2009 04:19 xxxxxxxxx Depot Arrived at delivery depot

04-02-2009 00:02 National Hub Sorted in hub

03-02-2009 21:59 International Hub En route to delivery depot

03-02-2009 20:04 International Hub RELEASED WITH CHARGES

13-01-2009 12:02 International Hub AWAITING CUSTOMS CHARGING

13-01-2009 12:02 International Hub AWAITING CUSTOMS CHARGES

13-01-2009 11:47 International Hub Arrived in destination country

11-01-2009 11:36 Heathrow Airport Arrived at destination country

10-01-2009 20:33 Delivery Agent - HONG KONG - PTT Left origin country

 

Will be in the car and on my way to collect very soon :P

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IT has arrived :P:P:P

 

Initial visual impressions out of the box are very good i.e. pass the Kleenex. This is a very realistic weapon. Everything is rock solid although the retractable stock has a loose fit. I should point out that this is similar to most AEG standard stocks and I am only drawn to it as it detracts from everything else. I plan to fit a nice VLTOR or MagPul CTR so I am not too bothered. Colt markings are some of the best I have seen on any M4. Magazines sit solid in the magwell without AEG "waggle". Every action must be done with purpose i.e. loading and removing mags, pulling the charging handle, pushing the bolt release etc. I have tried the charging handle a few times and it’s still in one piece so far. My forward assist seems secure at the moment too.

 

Not fired yet and don't intend to until I know I have done everything possible to avoid all known issues. So I have a few quick questions for the chosen few with knowledge.

 

1) Should I strip down before use?

2) If yes, how far should I strip down and what issues should I look for?

3) Should I clean off all the factory gloop?

4) If yes, what would you recommend for the cleaning process?

5) When applying fresh lubrication what should I use and where?

6) Any other pointers appreciated

 

I am a WE M4 newbie but very pleased to be learning :D

 

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So how long does airsoft buddy take to ship/deliver? I ordered some parts from him last week and I'd like an estimate...

 

Hi Wraith,

Once I paid for my last order with AB, I had it in less than one week on the eastcoast. Dont know if this helps, your mileage may vary.

 

Kai,

I really dont think pressure is the reason for your "bb rolling out the barrel" issue. I just mentioned that back pressure is a genuine issue with using a tighter O-ring (pressurizes the cylinder on the return when it shouldnt be).

 

I suppose it could be, but more likely your issue is the hopup not reaching down far enough to ultimately stop the bb.

 

This isnt a plastic AEG loading nozzle that only moves back and forth a 1/4"....like the Escort system, its a heavy brass bolt/bolt carrier/loading nozzle winding up from 6" away and slamming the bb next bb in the mag, forward into the breech.

 

Ever play pool/billiards? :P

 

Just shim your hop rubber, or turn the hopup higher until the bb's stop rolling out. You'll figure it out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Well, I tried putting tape on part 117, and it did stop the bb, but also slowed the rate of fire down and sometimes interfered with feeding. I took it out after a while and for some reason, bb's dont rolle out anymore. Weird. I also found that the little brass ring I lost was actually just stuck up in the outer barrel, and linked up naturally when I put them together.

 

Even though it isnt rolling out right now, I still want a deeper reaching hop up rubber as I can clearly see that these new ones are much shorter than the old. Im hoping it isnt just silicon oil holding bb's in the barrel, but I put about a mag and a half through it, no rolling, even when I swing about the gun up and down. William is looking to see if there is in fact a difference between hop up rubbers as I can see. Ill just order a new one from him to be safe, maybe a new 117 too. We will see.

 

Hi Wraith,

Once I paid for my last order with AB, I had it in less than one week on the eastcoast. Dont know if this helps, your mileage may vary.

 

Kai,

I really dont think pressure is the reason for your "bb rolling out the barrel" issue. I just mentioned that back pressure is a genuine issue with using a tighter O-ring (pressurizes the cylinder on the return when it shouldnt be).

 

I suppose it could be, but more likely your issue is the hopup not reaching down far enough to ultimately stop the bb.

 

This isnt a plastic AEG loading nozzle that only moves back and forth a 1/4"....like the Escort system, its a heavy brass bolt/bolt carrier/loading nozzle winding up from 6" away and slamming the bb next bb in the mag, forward into the breech.

 

Ever play pool/billiards? :P

 

Just shim your hop rubber, or turn the hopup higher until the bb's stop rolling out. You'll figure it out.

 

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ahh that explains the confusion. thanks for the rapid reply. Can anyone confirm that the 2nd version is available with and without trades?

 

The second version does come with and without trades. I ordered mine from evike. It has no trades but is the second version with steel bolt stop, anodized receiver, and greyish color mags.

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Good to know, thanks mate. I know of some retailers who sell the receivers with trades separately but Im not sure I want to be messing around with that.

 

Why not? It is very easy to change everything over to another receiver. I'll make sure there is a step-by-step guide on the wiki under the the modifications section.

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Ill correct myself: It can be "un PC" on this forum.

 

The last time I saw people showing/posting/mentioning how to convert real steel RECEIVER parts for airsoft use, the posts were deleted.

 

Wasn't it Arnies back in the day who wouldnt even allow you to post or mention a velocity (FPS) higher than 350fps? lol! Like some biblical law was broken!

 

I can understand that, after all, this is a UK forum, and their firearms regulations are IMO draconian (no offense to any proponents of gun control here). However, just to argue semantics, the upper receiver does not constitute a firearm, at least not under US law. From a strictly legal standpoint, it's no different from a slab of aluminum.

 

But good to know it can be done.

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^ Thanks Slu! And yes, it certainly can be done.

 

Kai,..

Glad you are getting it sorted out man!

 

BOOST!

Im going to hit you with a PM next - all registered and ready to roll!

 

You should be all set. Now we can really do some damage on this guide. Hopefully, with the help of a few other people, we can turn it into a central source of information for WEM4 owners...

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This is another link for lower receivers.

 

http://www.airsoft-war4.com/details.php?pid=4637

 

I'm hoping WE will start releasing more lowers with different trademarks. :)

 

 

The one thing I've read that is interesting is that the lower is based off a Systema version lower and that because of this a Real Steel upper will fit and work with modification.

 

What I want to know is if a Systema upper can be modified to work properly on the WE lower?

 

Something like this,

 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=25123

 

 

If anyone can find an answer to my question I would really appreciate it.

 

 

 

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For those interested here is an update on my newbie progress.

 

Both magazines leaked when first filled (no surprise there). I checked all valves/seals then applied silicone oil before leaving the mags filled for an hour or so. At that point they continued to leak.

 

As advised on this thread I used 1500 grit fine wet sandpaper (Halfords) to polish the tapered entrance on part #112 as best as I could with the part in situ (still don't have a D ring tool). This was smooth to touch when I had finished. Secured bolt #36 using Loctite 243 Lock 'N Seal (also Halfords). I noticed that when tightening bolt #36 part #38 did not align correctly so I removed the part and double checked seal #37 carefully checking the alignment whilst tightening. I seem to recall this being mentioned at some point, has anyone else seen this? Has anyone got better advice for alignment?

 

I have cycled around eight 30 round mags so far using semi and manual 3/4 shot bursts on auto. Emptied one full mag on auto. All 30 rounds fired but cool down occurred I guess around 20 to 25 (this was indoors and the temp. should be around 19 degrees c). It would be nice to know if this is normal or if additional tweaks can remove or reduce this further.

 

One of my two mags refused to catch the bolt stop on empty. I removed the outer mag casing and checked the selector switch movement, this was not fully back and hence the stop was lower than required. I corrected this but upon replacing the casing found it interfered with the switch. It was fairly easy to manipulate the casing over this without affecting the selector again. I suspect if I turn off the bolt stop action on this mag with the casing on I would be unable to set it back to on without following this same process again. Not a problem since I will always want the bolt stop to work. I have checked the wear on part #122 a number of times during testing and it looks just fine. Charging handle also fine.

 

So back to the mag leaks. One mag stopped leaking after the first 30 rounds, the second continued to leak but at some point during testing stopped. Both are currently partially filled and have been shaken about, no leaks anywhere. With my WE SV Infinity I keep mags with some gas as the seals fail if not, what's the best plan for the WE mags and why?

 

I never thought my virgin full auto smile would ever come back. I have fired the WA M4 and the recoil on my WE M4 AFC blows that to dust using the low power configuration.

 

Sorry for the long post, best stop for now... :D

Edited by Marky [UE]
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Thanks for your kind comment but I don't deserve the credit. All I did was spend time reading all 100 odd pages in an attempt to understand the more experienced members of this thread. They spend a huge amount of time here sharing their knowledge and experience and I certainly owe them a huge thank you. I suspect they have saved me a lot of hassle.

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