danielsilva Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 (edited) Does anyone know if parts #111/#112 ( barrel and valve housing ) for green gas can be used with the new co2 steel nozzle, using green gas off course. It's just that my M4 nozzle ( v1 ) just broke ( ok broke it xD ) and i have a "spare" one from my CO2 M16, i was wondering if i could use my M16 bolt carrier ( CO2 ) on the M4 ( Green ) until i get replacement parts.Any body ? No they don't Edited October 25, 2009 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 Has anyone tried using the we Scar NPAS on the M4 yet? I haven't seen anyone done that anywhere. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bamse Posted October 25, 2009 Report Share Posted October 25, 2009 alston: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=90068 quite a nice thread. I've also just ordered a SCAR kit since all the M4 ones are out of stock atm, so i'll be testing it at the end of the week if im lucky. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Question for all you WE M4 nuts - is it possible for the gun to work without part#66? The reason I ask is that on my WE SCAR, I've had issues with the valve knocker for a while. When I moved everything out but the select fire bar/hammer/valve striker, it was able to move back fine. However, when I installed part #66, it didn't work at all. Here's my understanding of that part: in normal stance the part is held down via the spring above it. When the hammer is cocked back, the part moves upward, allowing the valve knocker assembly to move backwards and position itself behind the mag valve. When the hammer is released, the valve knocker hits the valve, allowing the gun to shoot, and the blowback mechanism restarts the entire process. This is right, correct? It seems that whatever part on the hammer that pushes part #66 upwards isn't doing so, so my valve knocker stays forward, unable to move behind the mag valve. However, if part #66 is moved, it works fine. I've fired around 10 shots on semi (afraid to go further) and it seems perfectly operable without the part and its spring. Could someone else explain what else could be wrong, and if the part is removed, how detrimental it would be to my trigger box? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 alston: http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=90068 quite a nice thread. I've also just ordered a SCAR kit since all the M4 ones are out of stock atm, so i'll be testing it at the end of the week if im lucky. Cheers mate. Looks like a real simple design. The valve is just a CO2 valve. All m4s should come with them if you bought it recently. If it doesn't fit you just need one of those CO2 brass tube things.(included in CO2 kit) Doesn't seem too expensive. Will give it a go. Anyone know if it is possible to make a WE ambi selector in any way? Modding WA, modding RS, or cnc one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Question for all you WE M4 nuts - is it possible for the gun to work without part#66? Part #66 is also what keeps the valve knocker forward enabling the valve to release gas for about 1/3 the movement of the bolt. In short, it's what should make your bolt cycle. What's happening in your case is that the hammer alone is keeping the valve open until the BCG puts pressure off it. I don't think not having #66 will be detrimental to any other part, but I do think that you may have issues with cycling the bolt when cool down kicks in, but will unlikely happen anyways since the mags only hold 30 odd bbs. You'd need to find out if its your #66, the hammer, or the knocker that's the problem. If the hammer doesn't engage #66 at all then either the hammer or #66 is broken. If the hammer engages against #66 causing it to move normally but the knocker is not reset by it, then it could just be the knocker (or #66) snagging against something and could be sorted with a file. There's also the possibility of the BCG not engaging with the hammer low enough to reset the knocker which happens with some lemon charging handles on the M4. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) Regarding #66 which I posted on GGI: Nope. Just removed my broken part #66, emptied 3 magazines, 1 semi only, 1 full auto, 1 burst fire. All co2. All seems fine. Tried to look how it works as well and Im not sure of its purpose. It gets pushed up by the hammer by its 'arm' (this part snapped on mine) so the valve knocker can move back. The top part of #66 (the L) seems to get in the way of the valve knocker stopping it moving back, once pushed up its lifted over the small block on the knocker to allow it to retract. Maybe this part is supposed to hold the knocker forward when it fires to get better efficiency? A more solid push? The valve may be able to push the knocker back slightly maybe? So, Im really not sure but my Scar seems to function fine without it. Currently firing about 255 (+/- 10) with my NPAS, accuracy is rather rubbish with .20`s. Edited October 26, 2009 by Reppyboyo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKRay Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Anybody got news from AB recently? I've heard nothing from them after I politely enquired (last week) about the progress of an order I placed nearly a month ago. Will be giving them a swift kick up the backside soon enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Anyone know what these are for: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=196 I believe this is a new part; not sure if it's for CO2 mags or propane: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=444 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AKRay Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Anyone know what these are for: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=196 the above look like the old hop up rubbers I believe this is a new part; not sure if it's for CO2 mags or propane: http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=444 If memory serves, that's for the GG mags Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukvdh Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Anybody got news from AB recently? I read at some other HK-shop's webpages there is/was some holliday oct 25-26. Perhaps thta's why things are so silent at th HK front. But I get the impression to these last weeks the HK-webshop-people are very very silent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Manu le maboul Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 Has anyone tried using the we Scar NPAS on the M4 yet? I haven't seen anyone done that anywhere. I do . I've simply screwed the nozzle on my TSC guide rod . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jal3 Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 I do . I've simply screwed the nozzle on my TSC guide rod . Is it any better then? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinTurboCH Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 There is a "new" shop out there for the WE M4: http://gbbparts.com/index.html check it out, espessially the welcome text, and then the picassa links in the "airsoft news section"...and now, quess who's picassa is it? Wow! Thats kind of worrying on several levels. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukvdh Posted October 26, 2009 Report Share Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) There is a "new" shop out there for the WE M4: http://gbbparts.com/index.html check it out, espessially the welcome text, and then the picassa links in the "airsoft news section"...and now, quess who's picassa is it? Texts and images are "copied" from the AB site... In the text one can read: "To order this new release, please order in our e-shop or send an email to enquiry@airsoftbuddy.com for quotation and pay to our Paypal account at payment@airsoftbuddy.com...." Nice find, Eliminator. The domainname is registered at a Dutch registrar... And nameservers are .ru. Doesn't "feel" very trustworthy to me. Looks as if someone is planning a "take the money and run" business. So I think. Edited October 26, 2009 by lukvdh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Part #66 is also what keeps the valve knocker forward enabling the valve to release gas for about 1/3 the movement of the bolt. In short, it's what should make your bolt cycle. What's happening in your case is that the hammer alone is keeping the valve open until the BCG puts pressure off it. I don't think not having #66 will be detrimental to any other part, but I do think that you may have issues with cycling the bolt when cool down kicks in, but will unlikely happen anyways since the mags only hold 30 odd bbs. You'd need to find out if its your #66, the hammer, or the knocker that's the problem. If the hammer doesn't engage #66 at all then either the hammer or #66 is broken. If the hammer engages against #66 causing it to move normally but the knocker is not reset by it, then it could just be the knocker (or #66) snagging against something and could be sorted with a file. There's also the possibility of the BCG not engaging with the hammer low enough to reset the knocker which happens with some lemon charging handles on the M4. I fired it again today - VERY low blowback, so what you said could be correct. I'm guessing since the part is there, the gas is leaking out everywhere and not conservatively going towards the blowback action. I'll check my hammer assembly tonight and see if anything's broken - how can you tell if the section of the hammer that engages part #66 is worn or broken? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Maybe could you mod the stock one Do you think it may be possible to get a WA ambi selector, take the left side off with the screw. Drill a same size hole in the WE selector probably tap it with threads and use the wa's left side of selector? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 how can you tell if the section of the hammer that engages part #66 is worn or broken? Best to compare it to a working piece or good pics off the net. From what I've been reading, part #66 likes to get sheered into pieces (particularly the tab that the hammer presses against) instead of getting worn down. The hammer seems solid enough and have only read of problems related to wear against the sear/trigger, not with its engagement with #66. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Well unfortunately I have to rescind my praise for AirsoftBuddy, apparently he couldn't manage to label my package properly with my certified PayPal address. Just got off the phone with the post office and my parcel is already on its way back. It sucks because I was about to place a big order with them. I wonder if there is a working return address on the package? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Best to compare it to a working piece or good pics off the net. From what I've been reading, part #66 likes to get sheered into pieces (particularly the tab that the hammer presses against) instead of getting worn down. The hammer seems solid enough and have only read of problems related to wear against the sear/trigger, not with its engagement with #66. Posted this in the SCAR review, but might as well post here as well: Alright found the issue: it seems that when the hammer is pulled back, it isn't pushing up part #66 at all, it's pushing it to the side. Both my part #66's (PMC-T and stock) don't seem THAT worn, but yet it happens to both types. I took apart the trigger box and got my hammer out - I want ANYBODY to confirm that I do have a worn hammer (that small nub on the bottom that contacts part #66) and if I need a replacement or not. If I do need a replacement, will the TSC hammer that's for the WE M4 work? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
accuracy Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) Ordered some spare spare parts from ab on 24th in early morning. On the 27th he sent an email saying that order has been shipped and gave me tracking #. I ordered some trigger springs, couple part#66, and a new trigger. Edited October 29, 2009 by accuracy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I've just installed a Chinese 10" Noveske rail on my WE M4. And i just fired around 90rds, the rail is quite loose because the blowback has caused the barrel nut to come loose. So, do you guys loctite your barrel nuts? Or what do you do? It's kinda pointless for me to tighten it after every skirmish. What do they use for real steel ARs? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 (edited) The gas tube usually stops it from turning. edit: As I suspected. Those made in China Noveske's might be copies of Madbull which insist in not putting holes in their barrel nuts to further their "airsoft-only" slogan. You could try and drill through it, but just using thread lock might be the easier solution. Edited October 29, 2009 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 The gas tube doesn't go through the barrel nut though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Manu le maboul Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Where have you found this china made noveske 10" rail ? I've never seen it anywhere . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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