Roman! Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 My second KJW seems to have the common Hop up problems my first one avoided. So depending on what Frogfish's report is like I would be very interested. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steve3057 Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Sorry if this is too much of a derail, but i saw that King Arms is releasing a new GBBR. Was just wondering what you guys with more experience with other brands of GBBR's thought. Do you think its going to be just another WA clone with the same laundry list of problems or something special? Â Back on topic, I have been playing with my KJW for what will be two years coming up here soon and its the gun I field every time I play now. I'm well known at my field as "That guy with the GBBR" and I dont ever want to go back to an AEG! I've put tens of thousands of rounds through it and never had an real problems to date. I did have the initial hop up and accuracy issues but I just added some shrink wrap and keep my hop dry and the problem went away. I notice my gun does need to "warm up" a little every time a play. The first round or two of combat I'll have inconsistent shots but after a few rounds its a nail driver, its kind of amusing to me. The gun just needs a few rounds through it like I need my morning coffee before I stop accidentally walking into things I guess. Anyways just thought I'd check in and say my KJW is still a rockin machine and the best airsoft investment I've made to date. KJW for life, can i get an Amen? =) Take it easy guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elanaiba Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 I need to stop coming to this thread or I'll give in and buy a KJW before I plan to  It doesn't help that a buddy just bought one - on my recomandation - and he's gonna bring it to the sunday skirmish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted March 26, 2011 Report Share Posted March 26, 2011 T_Hum, interested in the hop fix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
def3kt Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Any idea on where to buy a replacement upper for my kjw m4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Got my TDC modded upper in today, my replica is all built back up and ready to go for testing tomorrow, I will try to head to a paintball field where I have a little more working room but we'll see. As a side note the work is great, clean, and simple. My original hop-up still functions, the TDC just give me more working room and it give the arm something to better seat with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Roman! Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Sounds cool, keep us posted on what you find! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 (edited) Just a quick update, Â If you get the TDC mod done, remove any of the shrink wrap from the arm that you placed it on and turn your hop-up off, then run everything from the TDC screw. Â I started out with .25s shooting a consistent 334fps for 5 shots in a row, then I started adjusting the hop-up and getting things dialed in, with the .25s I was getting about 220ft range. I ended up using .3g BBs going about 239ft at 310-314FPS. Â The biggest change however was the shot to shot consistency, shots were going to the same place almost every time. Â Â The down side is the screw is very very touchy, when you adjust it you need to think of adjusting it in 1/16 of a turn. Edited March 29, 2011 by frogfish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 The screw is a 6-32. It would be possible to step down to a 5-40 on future mods to give a little less sensitive adjustment. BTW, frog you might want to green loctite the screw to keep vibration for rattling you out of adjustment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Will do with the green loctite, but over about 60 shots there was no change. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arangar Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 What would the estimated cost be on the TDC hop adjustment? I'd almost certainly spring for that mod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 (edited) Here is an image what the mod looks like, not really much to say past what I've already said, it works, it's consistent, and it's simple. I'll give more info while I put more rounds through it. I do think one of the more important things is to make sure you keep your hop-up clean, I washed my hop-up rubber in hot soapy water, then rinsed it with hot soapy water, then an alcohol rinse, then cold soapy water, then cold water, then alcohol, then let it air dry, it looks brand new and there is a marked improvement that also helped with my results today, and I think the TDC mod combined with a clean hop-up produces an amazing hop-up.  T_Hum as for adjustment, It's not to big of a deal to use what it's currently threaded for, whoever is using it just needs to realize that cranking down on the thing is not going to do what you want it to do, it's very fine adjustments.   Oh and here is the range I was shooting via google earth  and my weapon   Currently I have these parts in it  BC extension piston cup x nozzle velocity reducer 6.03 M4 length tight bore  I do think that a free floating barrel and rail do help with consistency as I think pressure on the barrel with throw things off internally. Edited March 29, 2011 by frogfish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 (edited) Price is $30 + return shipping which is $5 US and $15.75 international flat rate. PM me if youre interested or you can email contact@cradleairsoft.com Edited March 29, 2011 by t_hum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
brainexploder Posted March 29, 2011 Report Share Posted March 29, 2011 Sweeet, nice results, might be interested. Â Two questions: Â t_hum How gutted does the upper have to be? Also is the hop up arm completely gone now and the wheel? No need for them right? Or does this push down on the hop up arm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 all this does is add a screw over the arm you are still going to use the arm and spring, and the dial should be left in place just to make sure no parts come loose. You can even use the hopup dial if you want but the screw seems to get a better result for me. Basically if you are having hop-up issues there is no reason not to do this mod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Sweeet, nice results, might be interested. Â Two questions: Â t_hum How gutted does the upper have to be? Also is the hop up arm completely gone now and the wheel? No need for them right? Or does this push down on the hop up arm? Â Its best to leave the hop related parts in the upper when its sent. That way we can make sure everything is there and lined up and there are no other problems. So really just the upper and the pieces of the hop that are attached to the upper. Â Like Frogfish mentioned, the hop dial and related parts should be left in. They won't be used but they hold everything in there. Mainly the spring and spring block that are under the hop wheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Can this mod be done on the plastic uppers just as easily? Will the plastic hold up to the threading? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 (edited) Not too sure, it's very fine, but T_hum might be able to find something that will thread in plastic. The kicker is will the plastic be able to handel the pressure of hop-up operation, it's kinda thin in that area. Â Â Â We need someone to make reasonable priced metal uppers, maybe like a VTLOR upper...... Â I'd also like to find someone who will engrave my upper I want BCM trades... Edited March 30, 2011 by frogfish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Trickz Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 level III Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Plastic uppers would be significantly more difficult. The only way it could be done with any sort of reliability would be using a threaded insert. But I think the receivers are thin there and the inserts are much larger than the screw. It's a liability for me to do it so I'm going to say it's a no go on plastic uppers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Yeah I would have to agree now that I think about it. Likewise, I wish someone made a decent quality metal upper and lower. That would be nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
def3kt Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Is there any chance of modding an existing we/ptw upper to fit a kjw? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Nope. Quite different dimensionally both externally and internally. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
def3kt Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 Dang. Looks like you've got another project opportunity on your hands Travis. Nudge nudge. Wink wink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 30, 2011 Report Share Posted March 30, 2011 (edited) I honestly don't think I could make them cost effectively. The big AR guys are making them for $100 ballpark and they are making them from forgings 1,000 at a time. From billet in quantities of 150 youre not going to like the price  Casting in these quantities would still be rediculous. I think KJW's MSRP on the stock upper is $80. Edited March 30, 2011 by t_hum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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