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So I had a go at making a new bolt stop today from polycarb (what I had lying around). Took around an hour and wasnt overly complex to do, used a dremel with a selection of attachments and finished by hand with a small file. 

 

On testing it worked as it should, after some fine tweaking that is, however I made the 'impact face' too small which led to less than average performance. So going to have another go making it with a slightly larger impact face, the bit of the bolt stop that actually impacts the bolt carrier.

 

While 3D printing it in Lexan or Polycarb would be far better, if possible, this is a pretty simple and easy replacement which should hold up!

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I never even realised you could do this... might make this the default even at the risk of being banned from forum. Also, the way you stuck the dragon through the thumb hole... looked wrong. 

Made a mistake. That part no.17 that broke which I mistook for a hammer and corrected as being a disconnector is in fact a sear, as in THE main sear for the hammer. So I don't know what's going on whe

Is it odd I'm trying to read the newspaper?

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Not really an update as my internal tank has been leak free since the time I bent it back, but more on something I just discovered. Previously I stated that the tank only holds like 8-10 shots worth of gas, but that's just vapor. Keeping the gun low ready or horizontal has the liquid trapped mostly between the magazine partitions so the tank just becomes a nice and effective expansion chamber. But I noticed that full auto fire becomes a bit erratic (stoccato) if immediately shot when the gun was previously lying down or pointed up. It hadn't even occurred to me that the internal tank could get flooded so in informally testing how much liquid it can hold, it was doing well over two dozen shots before running dry! This may be why the internal tank is prone to bloating. With just vapor, there's more leeway for expansion whereas being filled with liquid means an increase in pressure from temperature is directly imparted to the walls.

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So I had a go at making a new bolt stop today from polycarb (what I had lying around). Took around an hour and wasnt overly complex to do, used a dremel with a selection of attachments and finished by hand with a small file. 

 

On testing it worked as it should, after some fine tweaking that is, however I made the 'impact face' too small which led to less than average performance. So going to have another go making it with a slightly larger impact face, the bit of the bolt stop that actually impacts the bolt carrier.

 

While 3D printing it in Lexan or Polycarb would be far better, if possible, this is a pretty simple and easy replacement which should hold up!

 

Are you making an exact duplicate?  Or modifying/improving the design in any way?  I just ordered one of these and I anticipate having to fix this part pretty quickly, like a lot of other people...

 

If improving the design, a nice clear picture of the finished part would be very helpful to many!

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Not really an update as my internal tank has been leak free since the time I bent it back, but more on something I just discovered. Previously I stated that the tank only holds like 8-10 shots worth of gas, but that's just vapor. Keeping the gun low ready or horizontal has the liquid trapped mostly between the magazine partitions so the tank just becomes a nice and effective expansion chamber. But I noticed that full auto fire becomes a bit erratic (stoccato) if immediately shot when the gun was previously lying down or pointed up. It hadn't even occurred to me that the internal tank could get flooded so in informally testing how much liquid it can hold, it was doing well over two dozen shots before running dry! This may be why the internal tank is prone to bloating. With just vapor, there's more leeway for expansion whereas being filled with liquid means an increase in pressure from temperature is directly imparted to the walls.

I don't know. I stored the gun mostly with the magazine inserted and in that state I wouldn't think whether or not there's liquid in the reservoir affects bloating too much. If the liquid got in the reservoir and it heats up without the magazine inserted I'd definitely see how this will create issues. But mine was almost always stored with a magazine mounted and it still bloated. Regardless, this is definitely one of the weaker designs.

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You mean the internal tank? Because the mags are more or less fine. Hard to say at this point as there are a lot of variables like how the gun was stored and temperature. But just from looking at it I would put it as a poorly thought out design considering they already addressed similar bloating issues before through internal and external reinforcements.

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Are you making an exact duplicate? Or modifying/improving the design in any way? I just ordered one of these and I anticipate having to fix this part pretty quickly, like a lot of other people...

 

If improving the design, a nice clear picture of the finished part would be very helpful to many!

A close copy but i have adjusted the design slightly which so far is working really well. Only issue is some how it turns off the dry fire feature on the mags... lol

 

Otherwise 10 mags stops every time.

 

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As you can see ive made the area that contacts the bolt larger. Infact as large as possible without having it constantly locked back.

 

Only issue I can foresee is the screw coming loose through recoil.

 

Also polished any areas on my bolt where there was wear, super smooth now!

 

on my phone, my spelling will suck

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You mean the internal tank? Because the mags are more or less fine. Hard to say at this point as there are a lot of variables like how the gun was stored and temperature. But just from looking at it I would put it as a poorly thought out design considering they already addressed similar bloating issues before through internal and external reinforcements.

I mean the mag reservoir itself on the p90 too is reinforced. I'm super perplexed as to why they didn't think of doing the same with the internal reservoir.
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What i'll do to be safe is stick with the current stop until it breaks and keep the poly one in my gunbag. So I have a spare if it breaks mid game.

 

Then once it does ill fill the void with liquid metal and use the poly one until someone releases a steel hop chamber.

 

That should keep the ole gal running!

 

I've also been having fun with my new polishing attachment for my dremel! Any face of the bolt that had wear marks has now been polished to a mirror finish and coated with a little graphite. Should mean a super smooth action, improved my HK 45 for sure.

 

on my phone, my spelling will suck

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See if the nubs in the hop chamber are still working properly. Those are what keeps it from double feeding.

Do not over tighten the screw next to the fill valve (holding mag shell and mag guts together). Over tightening it pulls away at the rear most section of the mag which causes a leak. You either need to use sealant at this section, put a spacer so it can't be over tightened, or just remember to keep torque at an absolute minimum.

For the coupling valve, there are two o-rings there that can cause a leak. Find out first which one before replacing.

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I find a good practice is too tighten up fully then back off half a turn. Usually does the trick.

 

Equally I have been using some nitrile o-rings instead of the regular rubber ones, they are much better. They squash down much better and deform to the shape, almost like removable sealant. Sounds odd but im happy and my mags are leak free. 

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