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The Complete Tanaka Thread


The Chef

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Question for all you G&G powerpack users :)

 

I've installed the plunger and knock arm in one of my mags and I think the plunger might be sticking out too far at the back becuase the mag has become difficult to push in and will sometimes release a little gas just before it clicks into place. Has anyone else found this?

 

As a comparison, the KA plunger i have in another mag is recessed a little from the back of the mag, whereas the g&g one is nearly flush. THe KA equipped mag will slide in smoothly.

 

Cheers

 

PS - The g&g cocking peice that comes with the pack fits and works fine in my AICS :)

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I take it you screwed the knock arm (the plunger being the 90 degree bit) in all the way? and left off the striker plate from the original mag.

 

when I did mine, I found that the G&G Plungers kept the valve open a little, so I replaced them with the originals. Worked fine after that.

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Oh I've always thought the plunger was the bit that sticks out the back because of this http://cgi.ebay.com/King-Arms-M700-M24-Str...1713.m153.l1262

 

but thinking about it it makes more sense that the knock arm is knocked hehe.

 

Yeah i screwed the knock arm in as much as i could. My one for some reason didn't have a hole in the side to help screw the two parts together. Is that normal for the g&g one? I used the plunger from the set and there is no leaking. What i have found is that the KA equiped mag i have, i can push the knock arm in a bit before the plunger would start to pull the valve down, but the g&g equiped mag the knock arm will activate the plunger from the start.

 

Do most powerpack users not use the g&g plungers?

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I have a g&g powerpack, I use the included knock arm, although I have noticed the problem you're talking about. However I only get it every now and then, when I put the mag in a bit of gas escapes. Its wasn't really a big deal on my gun, the arm is very slightly recessed (about 1mm maybe) and it works fine 95% of the time.

 

Maybe a small amount of detail filing is order if you want to use the g&g part?

 

Anyways, I got my BGS part 91, it doesn't really seem to be a whole lot sturdier than the tanaka bit, but the fact that its metal just brings my confidence in the rifle up. I know that sounds a bit naff, but the plastic part 91 was one of the only bits in my tanaka I ever though was going to break and having a metal replacement just makes the rifle seem industructable, even if the performance isn't really improved.

 

I also got some straight .36's in the same order and shall hopefully post a report on them sometime this weekend.

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Just to add here that this adapter (V1.0) will not work with the VSR conversion kit as the VSR 555mm barrel falls short in comparison to the Tanaka barrel

 

V2.0 of this silencer adapter will be the VSR conversion barrel end plug with a 14mm negative thread added. Will add more info here as I get it.

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Just to add here that this adapter (V1.0) will not work with the VSR conversion kit as the VSR 555mm barrel falls short in comparison to the Tanaka barrel

 

V2.0 of this silencer adapter will be the VSR conversion barrel end plug with a 14mm negative thread added. Will add more info here as I get it.

 

This looks pretty good. I'm interested.

 

 

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what can people tell me about the TANAKA L96 (non AICS version). is it any better stock than the AICS? and would it have PCS stock?

 

edit:

 

there is an AICS for sale for £145 (my dad will buy it as he is registered) but it needs a replacement screw to hold the bolt in. would tht part be hard to source or expensive?

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I'm unaware of any screw that holds the bolt "in"

 

there are two very short screws that hold the two halves (front/back) together. I can imagine they would be quite difficult to find. Though i have managed to get some odd spares from ZeroOne. The tiny spring that retracts the striker in the m700s broke on my AICS and Z1 managed to get me a replacement after about a month or so.

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There arent any screws that hold the bolt "in" unless its the latch that stops the bolt from sliding all the way out when you cock it (wouldnt be an issue if you only cock it a few inches like a sane person)

 

There's an exploded diagram of the M700 action around somewhere in here, check it out and have the person identify the screw.

 

Otherwise all you need to do is take it to a machine shop or anywhere else that can tell you what size threads it has, and get a little baggie of them off mcmaster.com for a few bucks.

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well i hope you guys can help me out here. I haven't found it yet on the forum so im asking here. I have a Tanaka M700 Police (no PCS) and i have installed the BSG hopup set including extended nozzle. Everything works great except when i cycle the last BB the nozzle bumps against the BB, the BB then rolls in the barrel, and the nozzle doesnt push it in the barrel because the nozzle gets stuck against the thing that pushes the BB's up. Anyone?? :)

 

Thanks

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Thanks that did the trick :) now i'm looking for a precision barrel but no one seems to have a 639 mm in stock. Any ideas on this one? Thanks in advance guys

 

you can go + or - a few mm if you need to, the guns arent /that/ picky about barrel length if supply is tight, must make sure you measure how deeply your Inner is inside the cap at the end so you dont go too short and have to tape up a solution.

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try phoning dees, they get really swamped with emails and sometimes it's get hard for them to respond to all of them, i asked them about it because i also spent a lot of time trying to reach them...

i bought the pax unit from 8zero8 here, i highly recomend you buy it from him...

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