Alias1983 Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 My experience with g&g is the gearbox is meh at best. Some folks have to replace everything in the GB sometime after they buy it. Link to post Share on other sites
Hristo Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 While I changed most of the internals, stock parts seemed decent: corrected AoE from the factory, all metal teeth piston, aluminum piston head, their Ifrit 25K motor, decent microswitch. Only thing I would change instantly is the nozzle, which lacks internal o-ring. SIG 55x nozzle is same length, so I used Lonex one, with o-ring. Link to post Share on other sites
EverettTheUrban Posted May 15, 2016 Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 AGM MG42, going to be working on an MG3 conversion soon. Full album here. Link to post Share on other sites
sigma3 Posted May 17, 2016 Report Share Posted May 17, 2016 Sigh. Someday I'll put together a solid Norwegian kit involving an MG3. What all's involved in the conversion? Stock, pistol grip, muzzle cone, and top cover? Oh, and magazine... that's the real problem as far as I can tell. Link to post Share on other sites
Hristo Posted May 21, 2016 Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 G&G MG-42 - added a replica stock, with authentic proportions, texture and finish - added original rear sight - added genuine bakelite handles - replica sling - inert 100 bullet belt (more realistic than fake bullet belt supplied with the gun) The finish was weathered, to better represent a combat used gun. Link to post Share on other sites
Marc.RG1 Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Wow some impressive looking stuff here, I'll go make a coffee and have a good read through. Link to post Share on other sites
CatgutViolin Posted May 22, 2016 Report Share Posted May 22, 2016 Sigh. Someday I'll put together a solid Norwegian kit involving an MG3. What all's involved in the conversion? Stock, pistol grip, muzzle cone, and top cover? Oh, and magazine... that's the real problem as far as I can tell. IIRC the pistol grip is the same and some MG3s have old wood stocks simply painted black, so those aren't necessary changes. The main external differences are the feed tray (and magazine) and booster assembly, plus a bunch of minor parts like the sights. I'd have gone with an MG3 over my M53 build if I could get the booster assembly off mine- it's on there seriously tight and no amount of boiling and torquing seems to help. Link to post Share on other sites
EverettTheUrban Posted May 24, 2016 Report Share Posted May 24, 2016 IIRC the pistol grip is the same and some MG3s have old wood stocks simply painted black, so those aren't necessary changes. The main external differences are the feed tray (and magazine) and booster assembly, plus a bunch of minor parts like the sights. I'd have gone with an MG3 over my M53 build if I could get the booster assembly off mine- it's on there seriously tight and no amount of boiling and torquing seems to help. Really? Mine unscrews really easily. Did you have to repaint it from an orange tip because IIRC the glue they use is a major pain in the *albatross* to remove. Link to post Share on other sites
CatgutViolin Posted May 26, 2016 Report Share Posted May 26, 2016 Really? Mine unscrews really easily. Did you have to repaint it from an orange tip because IIRC the glue they use is a major pain in the *albatross* to remove. Am I being stupid and missing something obvious? It's just lift up the spring-loaded 'arm' and unscrew, right, no grub screw? Link to post Share on other sites
EverettTheUrban Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 Am I being stupid and missing something obvious? It's just lift up the spring-loaded 'arm' and unscrew, right, no grub screw? Yeah, basically. Say, it's Zombie off IFAP in case you haven't noticed. By the way, I wanted to ask - is it difficult to take apart? I'm running mine stock at the moment but I'm thinking of slapping in a new hop rubber at some point for a little extra range, then maybe doing one or two things to it in the future. Link to post Share on other sites
CatgutViolin Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 Yeah, basically. Say, it's Zombie off IFAP in case you haven't noticed. By the way, I wanted to ask - is it difficult to take apart? I'm running mine stock at the moment but I'm thinking of slapping in a new hop rubber at some point for a little extra range, then maybe doing one or two things to it in the future. Oh hey, sorry, I didn't recognize you. It's fairly straightforward to take apart. Separating the upper and lower gearbox halves can be a bit clunky but once you have it apart it's easy to work on. Once you know what you're doing you can get at the hop in about two minutes. If you haven't seen it already this is a great resource. One thing I'd add is that I've been running the stock box magazine motor on an 11.1V Lipo with no problems so far, so replacing the box motor doesn't seem strictly necessary. If you know how to solder I strongly recommend re-doing the box magazine circuit to run off the gun's battery. Link to post Share on other sites
EOL Posted July 12, 2016 Report Share Posted July 12, 2016 My Nam LMG Link to post Share on other sites
Panzergraf Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 Some fresh new pictures of my MG3's at Berget. My primary, normally mounted on our car (that's why it lacks the bipod in the picture). It's a Yugo M53 with lots of real steel MG3 parts, and internals from a Shoei MG42 GBB.I've used it a lot with the old style Shoei internals, but with the newer "high cycle" GBB kit it has some reliability issues, and snapped its second airshaft during the game. Most likely it's the bracket I had made for it to hold the rear air valve in place that doesn't line up well. The older type air valve seats differently, and is a snug fit. Reluctantly I have to go back to the ~10rps old style GBB internals, until I figure something out. The higher ROF of the newer high cycle GBB kit (~18rps) is much more appropriate for an MG3, and It just sounds amazing. My buddies in Berserkir Mechanized also had issues with their MG3, and I let them use my second MG.It's my original Shoei MG42 receiver (where the internals from my primary MG was sourced), with a Wolverine SMP kit inside. I used the upper gearbox from an AGM MG to hold the SMP in place, as well as an AGM hopup chamber and outer barrel. The pistol grip is also from a real steel MG3, with a micro switch from a local electronics shop used as a trigger mechanism. No safety at the moment. When my primary MG snapped its airshaft, I got this one back from the Berserkir-guys. They were very happy with how it performed, and so was I, even though I didn't get a fraction of the trigger time behind it that they did. Link to post Share on other sites
ardrummer292 Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Wrapped up my mid-2000s era UKSF spec L110A1 build. Mounted a G&G SUSAT rail onto an unrailed top cover, then modified a Seben RSM-05 dovetail-to-Weaver adapter to fit my ACOG. While the Seben adapter isn't 'proper,' it is as close as I could find to the pictured mounts. Link to post Share on other sites
ardrummer292 Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 While the Seben adapter isn't 'proper,' it is as close as I could find to the pictured mounts. Duh, I forgot to provide the picture I used for reference. Link to post Share on other sites
Darkmikey22 Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 Looks good chap. A few pointers if I may; Its up to you but you can lose the scapa/sniper tape from the grips. it was very rarely done. Some guys did do it to use as insulation to stop the plastic from getting hot. But that practice was short lived. The DPM 100rd cloth mag was used, but if you want to be more accurate the uksf actually used either black or aussie cam 200rd cloth mags. lastly, the bracket that holds the ACOG is actually the L85 ACOG riser mount just turned around facing backwards. If you need any other info, fire me a pm. always happy to help. Link to post Share on other sites
ardrummer292 Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Thanks for the pointers. I'll have a look around to source the parts you mentioned. Hopefully it'll be easier than sourcing L7 GPMG parts, which is my next build. Link to post Share on other sites
Darkmikey22 Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Here's a pic as an example. I know its normal UK forces not UKSF but you get the idea Here's a link too. not sure if they send to US, but can't hurt to ask. http://www.dandbmilitaria.com/fn-minimi-200-rounds-soft-pouch Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Yeah I got one of those black canvas 200rnd pouch, and an auscam 100rnd pouch. Our unit no longer uses Minimi 5.56 so I have no need for them anymore. If anyone has a 7.62 Minimi pouch would be greatly appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
Dusty U04 Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Search for these on ebay, but you'll only find a MK48 nutsack in khaki. The green FNH commercial version which is used everywhere else than USA is waay harder to acquire2x 7,62 MINIMI based on A&K, and a 5,56 ver on it's way. Built on custom made and real steel parts. Materials used: Tool and stainless steel Link to post Share on other sites
Tw1tch Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Dusty I am so jealous, still trying to sort out a feed tray and top cover of my own for a Mk48. Link to post Share on other sites
ardrummer292 Posted February 12, 2017 Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 Added a couple minor bits to my L110A1, namely a scoutlight replica and L110 rear sight. I would love to say it shoots like a dream, but... machine gun, so no. Link to post Share on other sites
stewpidbear Posted March 18, 2017 Report Share Posted March 18, 2017 New toy, as the original came from a chopped pig, thought this was in keeping... Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted March 20, 2017 Report Share Posted March 20, 2017 The belt is upside down. Link side is always up. Link to post Share on other sites
druid799 Posted March 20, 2017 Report Share Posted March 20, 2017 The belt is upside down. Link side is always up. And you REALLY need to get out more ! Lol Link to post Share on other sites
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