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Western Arms M4 CQB-R


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Inokatsu update theit site. A lot of parts (forum can't handle them all).

 

I'm no longer dazzled by Inokatsu's clever smoke-and-mirror routine. If they want my attention then they'll start producing parts and actually sell them to WA M4 users. They need to take a lesson from RA Tech. You don't have to be fancy and come out with Hollywood-style advertising. Just follow through and make good on your word. High res photos do us, the consumer, absolutely no good.

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(Posted on GGI also,) Can some one explain in detail how to remove the bolt stop and "firing pin" block from the lower receiver?

 

hehe.. nice shortening :P Might gonna use that one.

 

I have made the tutorial on bolt stop spring change. GGI bolt stop tutorial

 

Going to see if I could make one for firing pin block removal also.

 

The video I made is how to remove the mag catch. In the video I just take one turn with the mag catch.. to remove it just continue until it is loose. After that.. it is really easy to get out the block. http://www.gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.ph...&p=234#p234

Edited by IBICO
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Hi guys, after lurking for quite some time already on this thread, I finally got a WA M4! I'm really happy with it, and am never gonna go back to aeg's, that's for sure. However, I am having problems with my magazine... it's leaking. Yeah I know, I'm a sinner, I've been feeding it something stronger than HFC134A, but come on, who hasn't :P ?

 

The thing is leaking from the bottom end AND the top end. Stripped it and put some teflon tape around the the three o-rings, but it's still leaking just as much. I read some pages ago that people also used a kind of grease to enhance the fit. Could someone help me out on this one? Especially from the WA guru's who've already tight fitted all their mags... If you could explain to me step by step what to do, I'll be able to start over with my mag. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Posted this again on GGI - always get better responses over there guys check it out :P Still, I don't have much time left to work on my gun so I need info from wherever I can get it.

 

I replaced the sear and it seems to work fine... safe is safe, auto is auto, but when it shoots on semi it fires once and locks the trigger back requiring me to manually pull the charging handle in order to fire again. Any idea on what may be causing this?

 

Also, is there something (a lever of some sort) that I need to pull or push to re-gas my magazines after use? I remember hearing this somewhere and my mags don't sound like they are refilling :/

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Somebody says that the Airsoft version is the RS version in a PTS box.

If someone can answer me about the Airsoft CTR sizes to compare with the RS Mil-spec one.

 

If the sizes are the same , the airsoft version will be easier to order for me ( in europe )... :(

 

 

Pretty sure the Airsoft versions won't work period. Someone further back in this thread tried it and ended up having to order the RS because the airsoft wouldn't work properly.

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I'm planning on buying a WA M4 as soon is I can round up all of the necessary funds; but before i do so I want to know what parts can be upgraded to make it the best possible.

So far this is what I have:

 

-Prime Bolt

-Prime Hop-Up

-Prime Hammer Sat

-RA Bolt Stop

-2-Roy POM Cylinder

-6.01 Inner Barrel

 

I'm sure there are more parts that can be upgraded so please add to the list if you know of any.

 

Also is saw something about a Prime VIS here: http://anvil.militaryblog.jp/ but i couldn't find any info about it here at Arnie's; so please post if you have any information about it.

 

Thanks

 

EDIT: you have to scroll down for a bit to get to the VIS article

Edited by -=OGGY=-
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Pretty sure the Airsoft versions won't work period. Someone further back in this thread tried it and ended up having to order the RS because the airsoft wouldn't work properly.

 

 

 

Read my post up there ^^^. I have the airsoft version on my WA m4. I didn't use the buffer tube, I used the stock WA buffer tube, but the CTR stock fits fine on that. The Airsoft CTR WILL work.

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Here's my .02

 

-Prime Bolt Not Required (well made but not required to make the WA M4 reliable. felt recoil is reduced noticeably)

-Prime Hop-Up Required (or any other aftermarket hopup. ie: RA Tech)

-Prime Hammer Set Not Required (very slick upgrade but not required to make the WA M4 reliable)

-RA Bolt Stop Optional (you can make the stock one work with some slight modifications)

-2-Roy POM Cylinder Optional (not immediately required. it will take some time before the stock nozzle wears out)

-6.01 Inner Barrel Optional (I personally like having the additional range. just watch your FPS limits)

 

PRIME Vltor VIS-1 ----> Currently there's no ETA on this item though you can expect it before the end of the year. The only guarantee is that it will be pricey.

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Read my post up there ^^^. I have the airsoft version on my WA m4. I didn't use the buffer tube, I used the stock WA buffer tube, but the CTR stock fits fine on that. The Airsoft CTR WILL work.

 

Thank you, I'll listen to you and buy the airsoft version.

 

( I'have heard that the RS CTR version export is strictly limited to mil/LE. Too hard for me to buy RS one, so the Airsoft version will be fine :D )

 

I hope the RS MIAD grip is easier to buy...

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Here's my .02

 

-RA Bolt Stop Optional (you can make the stock one work with some slight modifications)

 

 

GBBNut, I dont remember seeing anything about this previously in the thread and thought an aftermarket bolt stop was a requirement so this is interesting. What mod is needed to the stock one to increase its lifespan?

 

Anything that reduces the amount of extra parts you need to buy and as such reduces the additional cost has got to be a good thing :)

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One more thing; I saw that Redwolf stocks these parts for the WA:

 

-G&P Steel Sear

-Airsoft Surgeon 140% Recoil Set

-G&P Hammer Lock

-PDI Valve Lock

 

Are these parts simply exact replacements for the stock parts, or do they improve durability, performance, etc.?

 

Thanks

 

 

Don't buy the Recoil set....it'll destroy your stock bolt/hop.

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