NightFury Posted September 19, 2014 Report Share Posted September 19, 2014 (edited) So you're saying you have too much money, or what ? No no, of course not. I'm broke as can be. Spending $100 on a pistol already seems expensive to me. I need to really save up if I plan on upgrading my M4 though. I love the recoil, that's why I never went back to AEGs. Bane is a cause of great distress. You may have misinterpret. Edited September 19, 2014 by NightFury Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) Here's some info if you want to service/replace o-rings in your WE GEN2 STANAG M4 or MSK magazine. My MSK magazines had some minor leaks out of the box and I know the OEM o-rings are pretty poor quality and usually dry as dirt out of the box. So I took a magazine appart, measured the original o-rings as best I could and placed an order with my favourite o-rings source, SimplyBearings in the UK. Got the o-rings today and installed. Works fine. Figured I would share Reference image Comparison image 1. Main valve outer o-ringMaterial: NitrileSpecification: MetricCross section: 1.0mmInner diameter: 6.5mmOuter diameter: 8.5mm Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80413/1mm+Section+6.5mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html 2. Main valve middle o-ringMaterial: NitrileSpecification: MetricCross section: 1.5mmInner diameter: 3.0mmOuter diameter: 6.0mm Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80505/1.5mm+Section+3mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html 3. Main valve inner o-ringMaterial: NitrileSpecification: MetricCross section: 1.5mmInner diameter: 3.0mmOuter diameter: 6.0mm Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80505/1.5mm+Section+3mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html 4. Main body cross-screw holder screw o-ringMaterial: NitrileSpecification: MetricCross section: 1.0mmInner diameter: 4.0mm (original appears to be 4.5mm)Outer diameter: 6.0mm (original appears to be 6.5mm) Source (4.0mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80408/1mm+Section+4mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.htmlSource (4.5mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80409/1mm+Section+4.5mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html 5. Main body joint o-ringMaterial: NitrileSpecification: MetricCross section: 1.0mmInner diameter: 23.0mm (original appears to be 25.0mm)Outer diameter: 25.0mm (original appears to be 27.0mm) Source (23.0mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80446/1mm+Section+23mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.htmlSource (25.0mm ID): http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80450/1mm+Section+25mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html 6. Main body cross-screw o-ringMaterial: NitrileSpecification: MetricCross section: 2.0mmInner diameter: 4.5mmOuter diameter: 8.5mm Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80755/2mm+Section+4.5mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html 7. Fill valve o-ringMaterial: NitrileSpecification: MetricCross section: 1.5mmInner diameter: 3.0mmOuter diameter: 6.0mm Source: http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/O+Ring+Seals-NITRILE+O-Rings/c4501_4705/p80505/1.5mm+Section+3mm+Bore+NITRILE+70+Rubber+O-Rings/product_info.html I replaced the o-rings in my MSK magazines with the sizes I bought and can confirm it works well.Checked for leaks by sound and by submersing magazine in water. No leaks. Full load of 140 PSI ASG GreenGas at 24C room temp. Also test fired 1½ magazines from 2 different magazines. Worked well! So even though I got a few sizes off, the ones I got works. Hope this helps someone out Edited October 17, 2014 by NonEx 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) Here's another tip for you guys. How to get the bolt-lock on the WE M4 to make 100% contact between bolt and bolt-catch! So I got some AEG gearbox shims home yesterday to tighten up the fit of my WE M4 bolt-lock lever. On my specific WE M4 I used one 0.1mm and one 0.15mm shim. For a total of 0.25mm tighter fit. The decrease in wobble from side to side is very noticable. It's pretty much as tight as it can get now without locking up the bolt-lock function. It worked well enough but I still noticed the bolt was not engaging 100% as well as it could. Previously I have cut a coil on the bolt-lock lever spring, and filed off some material on the inside of the bolt lock itself, as per other guides. Source for AEG shims fix. Kudos to kullwarrior for this. Not sure if it's originally by him but this is where I got it from; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpL3ESLa1wU Sources for bolt-lock mod. http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=113532http://www.gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7558 So I thought what else could I do to make that dang bolt-stop get 100% contact with the bolt. Well, the only thing left to modify is to make the bolt-stop levers on the magazine push the bolt-stop up the last bit of the way.How to do this? I think it was attempted from the other way around before. By adding material to the bottom interface edge of the bolt-catch itself. However that didn't last when in use, IIRC. Well, turns out the bolt-lock plate that pushes on the bolt-lock is limited by the internal structure of the magazine design for how high up the tip of that plate can go. So I looked at the mechanics, and the angles, and figured if I filed off some material here and there I could make the tip of the plate push up mabybe 0.5-1mm extra. This would mean 100% contact. I think this is an original idea by me Haven't seen it anywhere else so far. So, this is how I did it; Reference image 1. File down edge 1 so that it gets more narrow.2. Round off and reduce edge 2 so that it does not interfere with magazine body edge.3. Round off and reduce edge 3 so that it does not interfere with magazine internal edge.4. Round off and reduce edge 4 so that it does not interfere with magazine internal edge. Reference image 5. File down the inner lip of the feeding lip. This will otherwise hinder the magazine follower to push the inner bolt-lever actuator arm enough to maximize the push up of the plate. Results Comparison without shell Comparison with shell And yes, dry firing mode still works fine since I don't touch that edge/surface with this mod. Hopefully you can see in the comparison images what has happened. It's minimal, but very noticable! If the steps are not apparent in the description above, you should be able to figure it out once you look at it yourself. I can say that with all of the above mods, my WE M4 bolt lock is now att 99% locking contact. When the bolt is locked back, even if I push the bolt lock as far in as it can go, the additional movement is minimal, like 0.25mm maybe. It can't get any better than this. Test fired 10 shots with one of the mags and works 100% now. So yeah, I think with these steps no one should ever have to have a dodgy bolt lock on a WE M4 again The only other thing that can possibly be a problem is if your buffer tube is on to tight and the "reaction time/space" of the bolt lock is too short/narrow. In that case back out the buffer tube one rotation and try again. EDIT: Might have found a minor drawback to this. It feels like the bolt has a little bit more resistant now to ride over the bolt stop lever in the magazine, but not sure how much it affects things, if anything. Edited October 17, 2014 by NonEx 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 I've fitted these bolt catch plates, removed the blank firing switch and as a result have more of a chance to engage. http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/t-s-c-bolt-catch-plates-for-we-m4-gbb-series-magazine.html#.VEGeURbgVwQ Now I haven't shimmed mine since it seems sticky already. What I might do is try to preload the follower springs a bit since they seem a big soft at the end of the run so they don't really lift the catch with authority. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) I have had those too. They are just steel (I think, or better metal) no differense in size though from what I could tell. Plus TSC sucks balls The lack of force from the follower pushing is more to do with the wobble/play in the bolt catch making it offset rather than lack of actual force to engage. Edited October 17, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
intinerious Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Here's another tip for you guys. How to get the bolt-lock on the WE M4 to make 100% contact between bolt and bolt-catch! So I got some AEG gearbox shims home yesterday to tighten up the fit of my WE M4 bolt-lock lever. On my specific WE M4 I used one 0.1mm and one 0.15mm shim. For a total of 0.25mm tighter fit. The decrease in wobble from side to side is very noticable. It's pretty much as tight as it can get now without locking up the bolt-lock function. Hey look! XD I came to the same remedy for the WE SCAR ages ago but it seems like the thread was lost when ArniesAirsoft forums got rebooted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 (edited) I left 3 magazines fully gased up overnight after changing the orings. One standing up, one laying down and one standing upside down. All still tight and full of gas. Win! Oh and the little extra resistense from the bolt catch plate sticking up doesn't seem all that bad after checking it out again. Bolt locks like a champ right now! Edited October 18, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) Hey guys, Anyone here manage to make their own low-powered "fixed" NPAS bolt / floating valve for the WE M4? I had a spare bolt and an NPAS that I installed but I am not really happy with the performance nor consistency of it and wanna try making it a permanent fixed 350 FPS bolt. I know the mechanics of how. I think I recall someone posting about putting spacers on the floating valve or whatever but forget the specifics. Any tips of references are welcome. Thanks! EDIT: Can also follow up on my post about the magazines. Played with the M4 and my 5 MSK gas magazines this weekend. Performed flawlessly indoors at around 16-18C. Got all shots off and full lock back as well with my bolt-stop mods. No complaints from me! Edited October 29, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaZero Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 I heard about some flow restrictors that you can place inside the nozzle to reduce gas flow.. I'll look them up for you when I get into work and post here!! They're meant to be much more consistent! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Arnt WE europe releasing a nozzle that lowers the fps? Don't think it's released yet . . . 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaZero Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 http://www.milspecsolutions.co.uk/upgrade-options/fg-airsoft-116/fg-airsoft-low-flow-system-4-for-we-open-bolt-rifles-and-vfc.html That's what I was talking about. The disks drop the fps by 20%, 15% and 10% so you should be good to go. Reports are theyre very consistent too! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) Thanks buddy! I'll try to get a hold of a pack of those! EDIT: Order placed! Edited October 29, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaZero Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Happy days I hope they do well for you! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) Will post back to let you guys know! Are my eyes decieving me or do they look stackable? So you can add or substract as needed to lower FPS more or less? Edited October 29, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BioRage Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 (edited) Will post back to let you guys know! Are my eyes decieving me or do they look stackable? So you can add or substract as needed to lower FPS more or less? but but, they don't have an estimator to ship to Canada .. e-mailed. Might get these if they are cheaper then the NPAS here ($19.00 CDN). I don't think you can add or subtract, you can only put on one of the reduction rates, either be 10/15/20%. Let me know how these go for you! Edited October 29, 2014 by BioRage Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DeltaZero Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 I think the way it works is the actual hole is smaller depending which ring you put in. I dont think theyre stackable! Doesn't look like it in my eyes at least! but but, they don't have an estimator to ship to Canada .. e-mailed. Might get these if they are cheaper then the NPAS here ($19.00 CDN). I don't think you can add or subtract, you can only put on one of the reduction rates, either be 10/15/20%. Let me know how these go for you! If they don't ship to Canada I don't mind playing the middle man if you'd like. PM me! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mean_marine Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 I've been using the white disc in my OB WE m4 for about 6 months now and it works really well. I was too lazy to make my own so was pleased when I saw FG airsoft had made something , good to see that a UK company now has them too. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thatguy404 Posted October 29, 2014 Report Share Posted October 29, 2014 Received my ra tech aac lvl1 m4 today. Excited to skirmish this puppy, and it's fun learning about new platforms Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thatguy404 Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Okay, so managed to set my hop and npas and all seems well. However, if I dry fire the gun, and let the bolt lock to the rear, sometimes it doesn't lock the whole way back, but sticks. I have to apply quite a bit of force to the charging handle, it moves back a touch, the bolt catch locks it, and I can release it as per normal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 See my posts a few pages back on bolt lock mods. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 So my WE M4 bolt-lock retaining pin went MIA during todays game. Can anyone take theirs out and measure it lenght and width wise please? Thanks! And / or direct me to where I might find a suitable spare one. Thinking of trying to get an RS pin... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) Problem solved. FYI the OEM pin is ~2.75mm in diameter and ~13.3mm in lenght. I had my WE HK416 laying around so took it out from there and checked. Since my hole had widened a bit, hence the pin failing out and being lost, I took a chance and bought a roll-pin assortment box. The 3mm one fit nicely after working it back and forth a bit, taking care not to break the sides of the pin holder thingy. But I had to cut it to lenght with a dremmel, no biggie. Of course the cut side went towards the right-hand side so it's not being pushed into the pin holes. I managed to lose the friggen spring for the bolt-catch while working, but after 30 minutes of searching I found it stuck to the grip of one of my scissors, how in the hell? Anyways, if it was locking 99.9% before it is now at 99.999%. When I lock it back and push on the bolt-lock it literally cannot move any further into place. And the chances of this roll-pin getting lost are about 0.001% Edited November 2, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thatguy404 Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) And mine is having to be sent back to the supplier. bolt sticks back on empty mag no matter what. Bolt catch won't release as bolt isn't far enough back. Have to flip the gun over and use both hands on the charging handle to pull the bolt far enough back. Edited November 2, 2014 by thatguy404 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted November 6, 2014 Report Share Posted November 6, 2014 I got my FG Airsoft FPS limiters today. Will install this weekend and do some FPS testing and post videos. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted November 21, 2014 Report Share Posted November 21, 2014 Hey, I tried to do a search for this but "f93" was too short a search term. Has anybody tried to fit one of these to a WE m4? http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Grips_and_Stocks_GBB_Ergo_F93_Pro_Stock_GBB_DE.htm does it have the correct buffer threading? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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