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Nice looking gun, freon.

 

Today my bolt carrier broke. The bottom is cracked and deformed from hitting the buffer retainer. It caught and wouldn't release so I couldn't open up the gun. I unscrewed the receiver extension/buffer tube cap and pushed the bcg back into the upper receiver. Time to contact KJW to see if I can get some parts. Hopefully I get a reply.

 

how much of a beating had you put the bolt through? like what? 20000 rounds?

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vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

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After reading through most of this topic, I'm at page 100, I decided to get this gun. I think I'm gonna get the jp rifles kit but I was wondering if there's any chance of me getting this stock on the the gun?

 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Grips_and_Stocks_AEG_Madbull_ACE_Skeleton_Stock_L.htm

 

Also is the gas block necessary because I personally think the jp gas block looks terrible

Edited by Waffelcopter
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Not sure if the skeleton stock would be compatible. For the gas blocks though, I can say for a certainty that what is important is that your barrel nut holds your barrel in place and that there is absolutely no wobble. Gas block/tube is useful for stabilizing certain rails but if you want to do without it then that is your option.

 

My personal preference is that I can't stand not having a gas tube and gas block installed.

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Thanks, I figured it wouldn't work but I thought asking couldn't hurt. Ill probably end up going with a PRS or UBR stock, I just have to decide.

 

Does anyone know if the JP hand guard wobbles without a gas tube? It seems like it wouldn't because of the different locking system but I can't say for sure.

 

Does anyone know if it would be possible to use an R-Hop in this gun? For those not familiar more info could be found here. http://www.spokaneairsoft.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=18&id=11965&Itemid=87

Edited by Waffelcopter
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Thanks, I figured it wouldn't work but I thought asking couldn't hurt. Ill probably end up going with a PRS or UBR stock, I just have to decide.

 

Does anyone know if the JP hand guard wobbles without a gas tube? It seems like it wouldn't because of the different locking system but I can't say for sure.

 

Does anyone know if it would be possible to use an R-Hop in this gun? For those not familiar more info could be found here. http://www.spokaneairsoft.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=18&id=11965&Itemid=87

 

The JP hand guard will work even without the gas tube. But the gas tube is there to prevent the Barrel nut from rotating loose because of vibration.

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do tell what you think of it when you get it, id be very interested to know :)

 

I ordered mine a while back, the new bolt seems to have many positives compared to the V1.

 

Positive:

- Its alot more consistent in FPS output than the V1( my FPS dropped tremendously with each shot using the V1 from 470 something to 430 something, the V2 from 470 something to 450 something) in 10 shot each.

- Harder blowback

- Crisp cycle

- Louder sounds (metal)

 

Negative:

- Prone to wear, esp on the bolt lock, but it comes with a new designed bolt lock, Im not sure it works better coz I havent installed the new one. Considering the price, I guess its a great upgrade.

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@ Weekeny, wrong bro, it is different:

 

20j39cx.jpg

 

Also the buffer, but the old buffer is heavier and has better kick.

2hy9qxe.jpg

 

Also the buffer tube is different, the old is made of brass while the new one is made of aluminum (i think) painted in black. I dont have pics.

 

My KJ TK CQBr arrived preinstalled with V2 bolt, v2 bolt stop, v2 buffer tube but v1 buffer (which I like better because the buffer is heavier).

 

Note: pictures were grabbed from user named Beanie from Airsoft Canada Forum.

Edited by Cj Radge
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Odds on its not coming from there, I had a leak that sounded it was coming from the release valve. It turned out the mid-section o- ring was leaking. Strip, clean, regrease, rebuild.

Its an easy gas mag to work on. ;)

 

Oh! the mid section o ring did have like a little torn on the side because it was stuck in the middle of the section when the owner before took it apart and assemble it. I might need to check that o ring then or replace it with another. Do you reckon any other oring with the same size and thickness would suffice?

 

Thanks a lot, your post made it clear that it might be the o ring, had doubts before but now I think its true.

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Oh! the mid section o ring did have like a little torn on the side because it was stuck in the middle of the section when the owner before took it apart and assemble it. I might need to check that o ring then or replace it with another. Do you reckon any other oring with the same size and thickness would suffice?

 

Thanks a lot, your post made it clear that it might be the o ring, had doubts before but now I think its true.

 

Immerse it in water and see where the bubbles are coming from.

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Broken Piston cup? :D Cj's Solution:

 

IMAG0672.jpg

IMAG0677.jpg

IMAG0678.jpg

IMAG0680.jpg

 

It has:

Better material - used in hydraulics so I expect that this can withstand GBBr pressure easily. Let's see how long will it last ;)

Better seal - more flexible and a little wider. it felt like it kicks harder when I fired it.

Made in Japan hehehhee

 

I immediately replaced the piston cups of my two bolts and bought another spare of Cj's cup just in case hehe.

Edited by Cj Radge
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CJ, are those C-cups or D-cups? :bleh:

 

Bring me a pair (pun slightly intended :blow: ) on Sunday will ya?

 

my 2012 project will be to turn a KJW M4 into a MK12 mod 1 sniper rifle, (using a G&P front end conversion kit and their GBB fixed stock) which should be easy enough to do, except that I'ma try to incorporate a hop arm shaped like the SCS spacer for greater accuracy. (will document all processes for great justice!)

 

http://shredderscs.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=scs&action=display&thread=33

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