t3hDesertFox Posted December 1, 2007 Report Share Posted December 1, 2007 Usually two. Link to post Share on other sites
darryl zero Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 (edited) My G36K... Began life as a Jing Gong G36C, but somewhat far removed from its origins.   Army Code body Army Code steel cocking lever and ejection port cover Classic Army pistol grip (fiber reinforced and a near perfect color match with the Army Code body) Classic Army G36K length stock Classic Army G36 scoped carry handle Classic Army G36K RAS Classic Army G36K steel outer barrel assembly (gorgeous) Classic Army vertical grip Element Noveske steel flash hider Classic Army G36 inner metal frame Classic Army G36 metal stock block Classic Army 7mm gearbox Systema bushings Systema Gears, cyclinder, piston, spring, etc. Classic Army stainless steel 6.04 mm inner barrel KM hop-up bucking  About the only things that are still Jing Gong are the motor, wiring, some tiny gearbox parts, trigger, and hop-up. Future upgrades will be some nicer wiring, a MOSFET setup, and possibly a metal hop-up chamber and better motor.  If I had to build it over again, I think I would have liked to use that KWA G36C gearbox. 8 & 9 mm bushings? Yummy.  Now if only I could solve that annoying gap between the Classic Army grip and Army Code receiver. Edited December 9, 2007 by darryl zero Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 In the end was it worth starting from a Jing Jong? Â Also i didnt know you had any AEG's Link to post Share on other sites
Pinkfloyd Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 Ever wondered what a G36 Bullpup might look like? Perhaps something like this:Â Â Gentelmen, we have the HK G37! Â I NEED this rifle. I'm going down to the local hardware store to buy bondo and I'm making one. Look for future posts on build progress; I'm going to do a build of this in between my "Realistic Blow Back modual" development. I have built a mechanism to mimic .22lr force for GBB's along with GBB Cmags and custom milled CnC USP slides, but that can wait, because I NEED ONE OF THESE! Link to post Share on other sites
Slash' Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 In the end was it worth starting from a Jing Jong? Also i didnt know you had any AEG's  If you're going to do all that, you may as well start with as cheap a base as possible. Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 Once he bought all the Classic Army parts except for the RAS he must have run over the price of what the CA costs. All that comes standard AFAIK Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlanks Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 Does anyone know a K-length barrel + flash hider that is accurate in length and can remove the flash hider? The fact that the CA version is too long and I cant get the flash hider off is annoying to me. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 (edited) Where do you get that info from. The barrel is the right length, the flash hider if you think its off ive never heard that before... Â Yes the flash hider is a ........ i took a screwdriver on mine, wrapped in in a thin peice of cloth, wedged in between the gap, a good turn gets it off. Edited December 10, 2007 by Azulsky Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlanks Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 I know its possible but on mine they sure went all out on the lock-tite. I tried a lot of methods and none worked. However, it was not attached to the gun. Should I try it attached? Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 Either that or vice grip the other end of the barrel with it wrapped in something so it doesnt scratch. Then with a longer screwdriver/other long skinny metallic item you can get good leverage. If that doesnt work, then you need a heat gun "or other directable hi heat source *wink*" to deactivate the adhesive. Â What kind of flash hider are you putting on it? Link to post Share on other sites
MrBlanks Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 Oh I tried warming up the locktite and everything and yeah, nothing. I know many have succeeded, but theres also many who simply cannot. Â It doesn't matter though. What I wanted to put on instead was actually a suppressor and with the CA barrel, it kinda sticks out too far from the handguards. Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 well ive never heard of someone not succeeding, but if the barrel is too long anyway then its wasted effort if you get it off Link to post Share on other sites
darryl zero Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 Once he bought all the Classic Army parts except for the RAS he must have run over the price of what the CA costs. All that comes standard AFAIK Â You don't get the nice steel barrel or RAS with you bog standard CA36. Given that I purchased all of the parts in Hong Kong and paid HK street prices, I do think I came out slightly ahead this way, financially speaking. If you factor time into the equation, then yes I should have started with a CA36. That said, I've got a bunch of spare parts to get rid of now, nearly a complete gun in fact. It would be nice if I could get my net cost for this project down to $0. Â Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted December 10, 2007 Report Share Posted December 10, 2007 (edited) You don't get the nice steel barrel or RAS with you bog standard CA36. Given that I purchased all of the parts in Hong Kong and paid HK street prices, I do think I came out slightly ahead this way, financially speaking. If you factor time into the equation, then yes I should have started with a CA36. That said, I've got a bunch of spare parts to get rid of now, nearly a complete gun in fact. It would be nice if I could get my net cost for this project down to $0. Â Â True dat on the street prices. The gap i wouldnt worry about, its something that i had on my CA36K. Â Could you take the RAS off and take a picture of the barrel, ive never seen a Classic Army G36K Barrel other than the "bog" standard one, would be interesting too see. Â Congrats on the gun as a whole though its a looker... Edited December 10, 2007 by Azulsky Link to post Share on other sites
TriggerhappyLouis Posted December 12, 2007 Report Share Posted December 12, 2007 (edited) This is my new jg g36c as in my avatar Edited December 12, 2007 by TriggerhappyLouis Link to post Share on other sites
sekiryu Posted December 15, 2007 Report Share Posted December 15, 2007 The AUG isn't lefty friendly either you know. There are however lefty versions in RS. Â There aren't any "left hand versions" of the AUG--they're all the same. All you do is remove the bolt, pull the extractor from the bolt head, put it back in on the other side of the bolt head, put the bolt back in, swap the port covers, and voila. Link to post Share on other sites
6ft4 Posted December 17, 2007 Report Share Posted December 17, 2007 A Group pic of my G36s...  I hope i will receive more real folding stock in order to have total 10 .   Front G36 Spec: Surefire M570B handguard GG&G Heavy duty bipods Hensoldt Carrying handle with Dual optics Real G36K Folding Stock  Middle G36KE Spec: KSK Top Rail Real HK416 Front & Rear sight Real KAC G36K RAS Real KAC Vertical Grip Real G36K Folding stock Surefire M1 IR illuminator with XM07 Tailcap  Left G36C Spec: Real KAC Front Flip up sight Real KAC Rear Flip up sight with Long rail Real G36C handguard with side rails and bottom rail Real G36C Folding Stock Surefire M900A  Right G36C Spec: Real KAC Front Flip up sight Real KAC Rear Flip up sight with Medium rail B&T G36C RAS Real G36C Folding stock GG&G offset mount Surefire M900 series with Surefire KL6 LED conversion head Link to post Share on other sites
Sturaiku Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 I was thinking of something that would allow you to be a bit more accurate, so you'd have a tanned gun, but with the red/white markings perfectly preserved with no gray showing. Â You could try parrafin or even candle wax. Use a thin stick object and just lay it on, then scrape the excess, and paint. I haven't tried it myself but I did read up on how artists paint using wax and oil or acrylics. Link to post Share on other sites
average Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 Anyone know what inner barrel length I would want if i got the G&P G36k front hand guard set? I've tried searching through the forums, but I couldn't find the exact length. And, would it make a difference in range and accuracy if swap from a g36c barrel (247mm) to something like 300mm or 363mm? Link to post Share on other sites
Domz Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 (edited) The CA G36k barrel length is ~363 (actually slightly less maybe 360 but the flashider covers a few more too), duno if G&P is exactly the same though. Â Debatable using a longer barrel, some seem to think it makes no difference. Apparently once over 363mm it makes little difference, but therefore 270-360 it might be worth it. If you dont already have a tightbore I'd say go for a new tightbore or the k length if you're going to a k. Edited December 18, 2007 by Domz Link to post Share on other sites
Slash' Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 Link to post Share on other sites
Domz Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 Nice and simple but functional  The side rail looks like its sticking out more than normal doesn't it?? Link to post Share on other sites
Abelius Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 That might be because it has a rail cover and it's mounted on a large handguard. Link to post Share on other sites
Slash' Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 Nice and simple but functional  The side rail looks like its sticking out more than normal doesn't it??  As per the above post.  But thanks.  *hides 5000rd boxmag* Link to post Share on other sites
Domz Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 That might be because it has a rail cover and it's mounted on a large handguard. Thca, I do have one and can recognise those 2 parts Just looks even a little more further out. Probably just the cover being quite chunky. Link to post Share on other sites
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