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The Complete Tanaka Thread


The Chef

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Hey guys,

 

So that rifle I bought as a fixer upper has alot of issues that I wasn't aware of upon buying. Long story short I'm looking for a new hop up chamber. I was going to go with the G&G M700 metal hop chamber as I've used it before and then I came across this in the US :

 

http://www.jkarmy.com/eng/magento/airsoft/gbb-metal-slides-parts/gas-paradise-cnc-aluminum-chamber-for-tanaka-m700-using-vsr-10-style-hop-up-bucking.html

 

Has anyone seen / heard of these before ? Any idea on if they are any good ? Any info would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks, FL.

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Looks like a bargain if you get the hop chamber outer and inner parts for $68. I only have the original PAX vsr hop conversion chamber for my m40a1 (m700 mechanism)..... and must say it is far better than the original tanaka hop up design and performance. A must have on a tanaka m700.

 

Your case sums up why I don't think its good to buy a second hand gas rifle... they often have several issues.

 

Good Hunting;)

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Normally I'd stay away from a 2nd hand Tanaka, but the original seller said all that was wrong was that the cocking piece was missing from the bolt. I do however think he was either A) Lying or B) a complete idiot. 

 

These are the parts the gun came with, and I've had it open and verified that these parts are in the gun :

 

 

2Roy VSR Chamber Conversion Kit.
Enhanced G&G Striker Spring.
Laylax 6.03 555mm tightbore barrel.
Nineball Purple HOP rubber.
Long mag with the G&G PowerPack parts installed
 
So now I'm going to be getting the improved hop chamber to replace the plastic one that has the thread broken on it, resulting in outer barrel wobble. However I also noticed that the barrel locking screw (Part 7 on the exploded diagram) is either missing or has been used somewhere else in the outer barrel as a spacer.
 
Is it worth getting the G&G heavy outer barrel ? I've read some people prefer them, some dont. I was thinking of not going for it purely as I dont want the added weight, but seeing as my barrel locking screw is missing, I think it might be worth just going all in and getting it.
 
Ta, FL
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  • 3 weeks later...

Watch with the creations chamber as mine was out of spec. The pin holes didnt line up with the receiver holes and were also smaller. I didn't realise this until I had hammered the pin in thinking it was just tight as it was new.

 

The result... Having to cut my receiver so the back end angles in now

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys, I have an m700 A.I.C.S that I haven't used for years and as I'm saving for a wedding I feel I should part with it for some hard cash.

 

As I don't have 100 posts yet I thought I'd ask you guys for an appraisal of the beast and its components before I get access to the for sale forum.

 

It's a pre-ban PCS bolt with the following changes:

BGS fluted barrel 24" iirc

BGS part 91

BGS hop rubber (+1 spare)

BGS extended nozzle

BGS barrel (not the best)

L96 style bipod

Guarder bipod adapter

Guarder l96 flash hider type B

Guarder scope mount (it's a single piece thing)

Hawke 5-20 x 50 scope (£120 new)

 

I still have all of the original parts somewhere That I swapped off it I think.

 

Any help on this would be great guys, I'm hoping to get around the 400 mark - is this a bit unrealistic? It was built just before the vsr hop mod came on to the market annoyingly so will this affect its price? It used to be able to get 3inch groupings at about 25m or so... Any who thanks in advance.

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I suggest you need to test it all and confirm its ability to shoot as you say. This would give it a value over 400, due to being PCS pre ban model imo. Perhaps sell it for 400 and then the scope seperately on ebay? The Accuracy sounds good, but what is the flat range like? Also the rubber parts may have perished if unused for several years. Someone could always replace the hop with a VSR conversion.Good Luck with the sale.

 

Good Hunting ;)

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Hey guys,

 

just looking for some advice. At the moment I am unable to cock my M700. I can't rotate the actual handle in order to pull the cocking piece back. I read somewhere that filing it down where it contacts the cocking piece can help, but this hasn't done anything. I am using the G&G striker spring in the bolt rather than the stock one. I'm at a total loss as to how to fix this and I don't want to file anything anymore.

 

Thanks for any help, FL

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Hey guys, just looking for some advice. At the moment I am unable to cock my M700. I can't rotate the actual handle in order to pull the cocking piece back. I read somewhere that filing it down where it contacts the cocking piece can help, but this hasn't done anything. I am using the G&G striker spring in the bolt rather than the stock one. I'm at a total loss as to how to fix this and I don't want to file anything anymore. Thanks for any help, FL

This could be due to a dislodged/broken valve knocker return spring. Try pushing the valve knocker back with your finger.

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If the bolt handle is too far worn sanding it may not help anymore, and yes it is the interaction between the cocking piece and bolt handle giving you these issues. You may want to consider replacing one or both of these parts. I replaced mine with a steel cocking piece and handle made by G&G, so far no considerable wear on the two parts.

Also, how come you are using the stronger spring? The stock one gets me to and above my field limits just fine (600)

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The bolt was missing it's return spring when I got it, so I'm using a spring that fits in but from what you are saying, it is not strong enough to push the valve knocker (cocking piece) back. 

 

I am unable to move the valve knocker / cocking piece by hand, I have to press down on the actual striker spring itself in order to move the cocking piece. 

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If the cocking piece is too far worn sanding it may not help anymore, and yes it is the interaction between the cocking piece and bolt handle giving you these issues. You may want to consider replacing one or both of these parts. I replaced mine with a steel cocking piece and handle made by G&G, so far no considerable wear on the two parts.

 

Thanks for the conformation on that. Looks like I'm placing yet another order to attempt to fix this gun !!

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Oh and keep in mind if you are ordering the G&G bolt handle, it does NOT fit directly onto a Tanaka bolt. You have to sand a channel down the length of it to make it fit past the extrusion on the bolt where the two halves screw together, if you get what i mean with my shoddy explanation :unsure:

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  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

 

This may be the wrong place to post this but I thought I might as well. I'm looking at getting myself a Tanaka, (I saw looking, I've been trying to source the M24 mag type for a year.), however the reviews in the first post on this thread no longer work so I was wondering if anyone had some advice on which one to go for, ideally I want the M24 with the long mags as it would fit in with an impression I am working on, however, accuracy and skirmish ability are top priorities for me.

 

So if people think I would be better suited with getting a different model I would be open to suggestions.

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  • 2 weeks later...

All the models, preform the same it's just looks and all will take the long type mags

Personally I prefer the m700 LTR, the smaller stock and lighter weight fit me better, I found the a.i.c.s to be quite heaven far a days shooting.

Just try and look for one with a p.c.s bolt, but you may have to go used. Fire support used to have a few models with them but expect there sold as they are no longer made.

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