cafemondo Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 My original bipod still doing well, been to 3 skirmishes and still locks in place, stays in place on the whole and legs extend in place without slipping down out of posititon as some have mentioned. Played with extensively in and around house & workshop and Ive really jacked up the weight on it to boot. It does make a lot of difference in wear and tear on mine as it has support from the pintle brackets that restrict the guns tilt by pushing against the upper part of the bipod as it tilts. However its not great, metal is wearing, itll probably need replacing or repairing soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cannonfodder80 Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Going back to the inert rounds airsoftworld do links for a fiver each, unfortunatly there's only 5 in a pack so you need to get 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rolling-thunder Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 Inert rounds from ebaybanned.com http://ebaybanned.com/product_info.php?products_id=915 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beasthunter33 Posted February 23, 2008 Report Share Posted February 23, 2008 (edited) I agree with the above statements, My bipod cam off after the first game and I plan on rolling without one. Â http://shutter10.pictures.aol.com/data/pic...Zd4xkNa0300.jpg Edited February 23, 2008 by beasthunter33 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XxDODSONxX Posted February 23, 2008 Report Share Posted February 23, 2008 Is there anyone that might provide instructions for the wireing of the battery to the boxmag on the para. I just need to know how to rewire the hardware attached to the mechbox so that the wire is longer making me able to stuff the fuse and battery in the boxmag. Or if there is a better way you know of let me know. Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gaffa Posted February 24, 2008 Report Share Posted February 24, 2008 (edited) XxDODSONxX, wouldn't really know about that as I have the MK.2... But I'll try and see what I can find!  Also, on the battery subject, I have found this website, British - Based (which is what I could do with!) that does batteries, quite cheap too... http://www.vapextech.co.uk/acatalog/airsoft.html  I am currently debating whether I should get the 9.6v 3300mAh Nunchuck battery or the 10.8v Nunchuck battery. They are priced at £22 and £25, and both have free-post. [Yes, although they have a DEAN connector you can ask to get it changed to Tamiya on checkout...] I do have the MK.2, but as many of us know a Large type won't fit, also a Nunchuck battery would be great for my SPR, when I get a Crane or Modstock for it... Basically I'm looking for the faster firerate [still using the stock battery! :S], and although the 10.8 would probably give this over the 9.6v, I've heard that there are problems with the Boxmag feeding with the faster RoF. Also, this higher quality 9.6v battery should give a quicker RoF over the Mini battery that came with the gun, because of the higher quality? If i did get the 10.8, I would definately go for 2-6round bursts... Like I always do!  Any advice given here would be great, many thanks, Gaffa. Edited February 24, 2008 by Gaffa Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Staceh Posted February 28, 2008 Report Share Posted February 28, 2008 Actually, large batteries do fit the Mk2, take the stock off, slide the battery in from the gun end, put the stock back on. Â Job done, I've a 4300mah 8.4 in mine, 9.6's fit as well, I've tested it. Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Is there anyone that might provide instructions for the wireing of the battery to the boxmag on the para. I just need to know how to rewire the hardware attached to the mechbox so that the wire is longer making me able to stuff the fuse and battery in the boxmag. Or if there is a better way you know of let me know. Thanks  No need for a rewire. Just buy an extension cable, connect on to the original point, leave the fuse in the foregrip and pass the now longer cable through the square hole underneath the fore grip and then through the box mag small filling hole on the top.  Job done, have a large 9.6 in mine and it works a treat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kye Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Actually, large batteries do fit the Mk2, take the stock off, slide the battery in from the gun end, put the stock back on. Job done, I've a 4300mah 8.4 in mine, 9.6's fit as well, I've tested it.   You have just made my evening dear sir Quote Link to post Share on other sites
XxDODSONxX Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 No need for a rewire. Just buy an extension cable, connect on to the original point, leave the fuse in the foregrip and pass the now longer cable through the square hole underneath the fore grip and then through the box mag small filling hole on the top. Job done, have a large 9.6 in mine and it works a treat.   Hey Thanks Paulb i am going to my local raido shack and see if i can find an extenshion or make one.  Hey i just got my m249. The review shows the front end of the barrel unscrewing. I have tryied to unscrew mine and i just cant get it to unscrew. Would it have thread locker in it or something. Anyone got any ideas or going though the same proplems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cafemondo Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Hey Thanks Paulb i am going to my local raido shack and see if i can find an extenshion or make one. Hey i just got my m249. The review shows the front end of the barrel unscrewing. I have tryied to unscrew mine and i just cant get it to unscrew. Would it have thread locker in it or something. Anyone got any ideas or going though the same proplems. Did you get a A&K M249 straight from HK or a rebranded echo A&K? Out of the factory there is none, Echo like to have a fiddle and may well have put some threadlock in there.  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 Hey Thanks Paulb i am going to my local raido shack and see if i can find an extenshion or make one. Hey i just got my m249. The review shows the front end of the barrel unscrewing. I have tryied to unscrew mine and i just cant get it to unscrew. Would it have thread locker in it or something. Anyone got any ideas or going though the same proplems.  My flashider was loose when i removed the 249 from the box.  I fitted a tracer unit to it last night and lit up the sky! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted February 29, 2008 Report Share Posted February 29, 2008 I have an echo1 and had no problem removing mine. (m249 para) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gaffa Posted March 2, 2008 Report Share Posted March 2, 2008 Actually, large batteries do fit the Mk2, take the stock off, slide the battery in from the gun end, put the stock back on. Job done, I've a 4300mah 8.4 in mine, 9.6's fit as well, I've tested it.   My 4/5 SC battery from some chinese airsoft gun which i bought 3 years back...  http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r286/Gaffa07/Photo392.jpg http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r286/Gaffa07/Photo391.jpg http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r286/Gaffa07/Photo390.jpg  It simply was not going in.... Still wondering which would give the better firerate - 9.6 or 10.8 (considering i still want the mag to feed properly...) nunchuck battery (3300mAh each, from the website I posted in my previous post.! ). Need this battery to fit in a Crane stock for my SPR I have too, will a 10v fit?  Many thanks, Gaffa07. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Storebror Posted March 8, 2008 Report Share Posted March 8, 2008 At last done reading this topic. Have a few questions though: Â Nozzle: In order to replace the nozzle I need to buy one for M4A1 and file off 2mm from the front end of it? Internals: All V2 internals work, right? Element upgrade parts: I think that I shall upgrade the gun with elements FTK. Will it be too much for it to handle with a high speed one, M100 spring and 9,6V battery? Any comments on elements high speed FTK? What RPS will it have? Is it enough with a standard FTK? Stock spring: I remember reading that the stock spring is M140, but it only shoots 400fps. Is this true? Will it shoot ~350 FPS with M100 spring and new o-ring? Â Great review though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Harvahammas Posted March 26, 2008 Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 (edited) Kinda offtopic but where do you get your CA M249 Upper RAS I've googled it but I only find shops from USA which have it in stock. Planning to start building mk48 but I only founded lower ris this far Edited March 26, 2008 by Harvahammas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
vwradar Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 Nozzle: In order to replace the nozzle I need to buy one for M4A1 and file off 2mm from the front end of it? Internals: All V2 internals work, right? Â I have these same questions as well. I thought I saw that all internal parts for these are the same as a Ver.2 takes. So I would think the nozzle would be the same as well. I just want to make sure before I buy a bore up kit. Â Also I am wanting to know if the CA249 hop-up unit takes a hop-up nub the same as all othe hop-up units, and not like the A&K/ECHO1 M249 hop-up does? Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
millest Posted April 9, 2008 Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 My flashider was loose when i removed the 249 from the box. I fitted a tracer unit to it last night and lit up the sky!  couple of questions on this - was it a para version of the saw? if so was it a tm tracer unit (pref the new one)? if yes to those how did it fit with regards to the gas tube below the flash hider? cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chas Posted May 17, 2008 Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 Just some interesting info: this 9,6V 2300mAh crane stcok battery fits the Para version forearm perfectly, no fighting, no twisting, no nothing. Â http://www.rsov.com/product/0/1104/p_Firef...rane-stock.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chas Posted May 17, 2008 Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 Someone asked me for pics on another thread (didnt he believe me?). The good thing abot this battery is that you do not have to put any wires through the box mag it to have a large capacity bat, and that you can use this very good battery in your M249, craned M4, almost any full stock AEG (AKs, M16, etc.). And if you decide to go with a RAS, you can still slide it into your box mag (some may prefer the box mag to balance the gun a bit, as it does get a bit front heavy). Â 1) Let the fuse and connector hanging out. Â 2) Slide the two large cell rods in; one will lay higher as the other one, as the dont fit horizontally. Â 3) Lay the short cell rod on the lower sitting long rod, connect to the AEG and close the lower handguard. Dont worry that the short rod, the connector and the fuse dont sit fludh: there is still room enough in the handguard. Done. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sysoosi Posted May 17, 2008 Report Share Posted May 17, 2008 I bought the Para version a few weeks ago and I have to say it's awesome for the price. I can't compare it with TOP or CA since I haven't used either of them, but surely this is better than the Star. Hell, this is cheaper and full metal (apart from the inner heat shield...) and works fine. Changed the hop up sleeve on mine before even testing, but that's the only thing I did to the internals. So out of box with the sleeve changed, it fires ok. Haven't chrono'd it, but I think it's around 110m/s with 0.2g BBs. Â There are a few problems with it. The first being that the feed cover on mine doesn't lock in completely, the left side stays open (it doesn't open itself though). The second one is that the feed cover doesn't pop up when I open it. It's supposed to do that, like an AKSU, right? I tried to fix it by adding some pre-tension on the spring, but it just bends before it gets strong enough. Â Both of these problems are probably unique and at least the first one is easily solved by some careful filing. Â PS. some parts are loose, but having played around (not actually used) with a few TOP guns, I'm not disappointed. Besides it's not like they aren't fixable with just tape and/or washers and *suitcases*. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tarnish Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 (edited) I'm hoping that's actually "washers and shims"!! Edited May 20, 2008 by Tarnish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kye Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Has anyone managed to change the connecter in the MkII, to that of a large type at all? Failing that, is there a converter that can be purchased? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Libris Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 Has anyone managed to change the connecter in the MkII, to that of a large type at all? Failing that, is there a converter that can be purchased? Â I'm sure these guys Component Shop will make one for you or, failing that, sell you the bits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kye Posted May 24, 2008 Report Share Posted May 24, 2008 I've just finished looking around them. I'm going to buy the bits to do it. I will lop the small male connector off, and fit a large one instead to the stock wires. That will then connect to a length of wire with a large female at one end, and a mini male connector (CS's own charger convertor). Said length of wire will allow me to use the mini type battery on a large connection, as well as charge it. Â Who has purchased connectors from component shop? Do they come with the contacts or do they need to be brought along side the connector? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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