Brian™ Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Yeah but if you look closely, I didn't highlight those two nubs that would still need to extend out of the barrel. You'd file off everything but the nubs that are on the Guarder barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kilo_64 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Yes and no. The setup is basically how you describe, but the performance was overall better than propane. Really the only thing worse was gas mileage, but everything else was noticeably better. I only tried it once though because I'm almost out of CO2 capsules. Click here for a quick pic of the setup. It's probably not ideal but it's worked with a lot of other GBBs. The WE mag looks like it holds more propane than the CO2 capsule, but I would expect liquid CO2 to produce more gas than liquid propane because it requires more pressure to condense it. My understanding of physics and chemistry is really basic, though. I see. Its probably the delivery from mag to bolt that eats up quite alot. I don't have any mags on hand so don't quote me on this one; If the WE mag has a rubber nozzle that lets the air gas out into the system you might want to watch out on co2 usage since co2 can freeze and damage that nozzle. So a note to keep in mind would to keep that mag well lubed up Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Also, does anyone know if the small brass ring at the very end of the brass essembly, where the barrel enters in, is important? I lost it and the gun still fires, I just didnt know if it would be needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Yeah but if you look closely, I didn't highlight those two nubs that would still need to extend out of the barrel. You'd file off everything but the nubs that are on the Guarder barrel. I understood what you were saying. The nubs don't extend far enough to the sides to reach the notch in the upper receiver. I've tried it on another outer barrel I had and ran into the same problem. I don't think an AEG M4 outer can be modified to work as there just isn't enough material to lock everything into place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Also, does anyone know if the small brass ring at the very end of the brass essembly, where the barrel enters in, is important? I lost it and the gun still fires, I just didnt know if it would be needed. Nah....can go without. I actually reassembled the gun without it the first time. I found the ring sitting on my bench. Ran fine with or without. What it WONT work without is this friggin' flat cup washer on the valve. Kai or SOMEBODY, can you please post Williams email reply where he said a "10-pack of washers is $5.95" or something to that effect?? He replied this morning and said $5.00 dollars each!! WTF? You can buy a whole tune up kit (valve assembly) which has the washer attached for $16.00?!? Something is wrong here, Im hoping it is miscommunication. If these things are really $5.00 each I will sell this gun yesterday. It would cost more than the propane to keep it working!! Please chime in if you have more info on the cost of this part. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 What really needs to happen is a redesign.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 I asked William already. He replied stating 10 washers is about 5.95, plus 5 dollars shipping to VA, where I am. Do you have the email you can forward to me? So I can remind/show him? He told me $5.00 eachfor this washer. No thanks, thats outrageous. Id sell the gun and never look back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew March Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Just waiting till the issues are ironed out before I get one of these, probably mar/apr time should be about right. Anyone know what thread the barrel is (14mm+ or 14mm-)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) This is what the email reads "enquiry@airsoftbuddy.com to Wolf.Aurora@gmail.com Jan 4 Dear Sir, We didn't sell the O-rings in a pack. But I will consdier your suggestion. For each O-ring is US$0.99@. For 5, then will be US$4.95. US$5 shippin fee. Total is US$9.95. Please pay to our Paypal account at payment@airsoftbuddy.com. Thanks William Airsoft Buddy" He prolly either forgot or is deciding to up the price. Either way, I dont want to use the washer they provide as it seems easily broken. I used the Oring and it seems to work just fine. Edited January 12, 2009 by Kai_Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 I see. Its probably the delivery from mag to bolt that eats up quite alot. I don't have any mags on hand so don't quote me on this one; If the WE mag has a rubber nozzle that lets the air gas out into the system you might want to watch out on co2 usage since co2 can freeze and damage that nozzle. So a note to keep in mind would to keep that mag well lubed up Possibly, but I really don't know a thing about gas systems like this (hence me using a little dinky adapter rather than a full size HPA/CO2 rig). I think I should be pretty safe since I've actually never experienced liquid CO2 getting into the system. I've actually tried everything I could think of to get it to. Should only be a slightly bigger problem than propane getting in there though, right? Do you have the email you can forward to me? So I can remind/show him? He told me $5.00 eachfor this washer. No thanks, thats outrageous. Id sell the gun and never look back. Are you sure he didn't mean $.95 for the washer and $5 for shipping? If the washers do cost that much there's already two other ways (one significantly more cost effective) to get washers. Just waiting till the issues are ironed out before I get one of these, probably mar/apr time should be about right. Anyone know what thread the barrel is (14mm+ or 14mm-)? It's positive. Quite an inconvenience for airsofters with AEGs, really... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Chris, 5.00 each (insane) His reply below ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Parts Number 122 x 20, US$5@, total US$100 Parts Number 02 x 2, US$5@, total US$10WE GBB M4 Magazine x 1, US$38@, total US$38 Shipping fee is not included. Please let me know whatcountry you live. Then I will quote you the shipping fee. If you have any query, please feel free to contact us. Thanks William ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I have sent another email doublechecking this price. He needs to back up his product with 'economical support". This washer lasted 2 days before it wouldnt cycle and load. Poor design. $5.00ea isnt called "support" in my book. Im hoping this is a miscommunication. Why on EARTH would he charge 16.00 for the ENTIRE valve assemby and 5.00 for one of 20+ parts which makes up the assembly. At ANY online supplier of o-rings (round/square/or quad) they are $5.00 for a bag of 100! OTTO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) Didn't someone use a TM MEU o-ring? I'm gonna do some digging to see if I can find a suitable replacement. Edited January 12, 2009 by 4boost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) Use the email I put here on arnies in your response and ask. He told me .99 cents a washer. Either way, Im not using the cruddy quality washers anyhow. Chris, 5.00 each (insane) His reply below ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Parts Number 122 x 20, US$5@, total US$100 Parts Number 02 x 2, US$5@, total US$10WE GBB M4 Magazine x 1, US$38@, total US$38 Shipping fee is not included. Please let me know whatcountry you live. Then I will quote you the shipping fee. If you have any query, please feel free to contact us. Thanks William ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I have sent another email doublechecking this price. He needs to back up his product with 'economical support". This washer lasted 2 days before it wouldnt cycle and load. Poor design. $5.00ea isnt called "support" in my book. Im hoping this is a miscommunication. Why on EARTH would he charge 16.00 for the ENTIRE valve assemby and 5.00 for one of 20+ parts which makes up the assembly. At ANY online supplier of o-rings (round/square/or quad) they are $5.00 for a bag of 100! OTTO 4boost, that was me that used the MEU ring, HOWEVER, it was not from the stock piston head, it was from the PGC MEU kit's piston head. It was just a big thick ol normal Oring, while the MEU TM oring is actually a special Oring. The thick one has worked wonders and looks like something you can pick up from literaly any hardware store that carries Orings. Edited January 12, 2009 by Kai_Wolf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 ^ I spent my entire day on Friday looking for a suitable replacement. First the hardware store........nothing. Then a company who deals with industrial seals...........nothing. Then a welding supply.......nothing. Then a car parts place who deals with rebuild kits for carbs........nothing. Last resort was Depot and Lowes - nothing. At Depot I did see the neoprene washers that somebody else used but the inner diameter is too small - he had to sit there with a dremel tool opening it up for it to work. No thanks. Not that much work, especially how FAST these wear out. Id be fabricating washers every few days. (plus neoprene isnt a good mix with gas/chemicals) Id like to find the correct or suitable replacement - affordably. PS... Inidentally, the washer is actually a "face seal o-ring" ...........not a cup washer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Use the email I put here on arnies in your response and ask. He told me .99 cents a washer. Either way, Im not using the cruddy quality washers anyhow. The thick one has worked wonders and looks like something you can pick up from literaly any hardware store that carries Orings. Its not as easy as you think........I looked at least a hundred orings in my Friday adventure. (see above post). the WE seal isnt round, its a square o-ring which almost nobody carries. If you use a round one, it is quite difficult to match the inner and outer diameter requirements. You got lucky with your aftermarket Marui part. I had some that were close, but even a hair too big (outer diameter) would create drag and friction. It was actually hard to charge the gun, and blowback was sluggish - or it actually wouldnt even blow back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slu Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Its not as easy as you think........I looked at least a hundred orings in my Friday adventure. (see above post). the WE seal isnt round, its a square o-ring which almost nobody carries. If you use a round one, it is quite difficult to match the inner and outer diameter requirements. You got lucky with your aftermarket Marui part. I had some that were close, but even a hair too big (outer diameter) would create drag and friction. It was actually hard to charge the gun, and blowback was sluggish - or it actually wouldnt even blow back. Try McMaster Carr. If they don't have it, few will. Goto their site, search orings, and click square cross section. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Try McMaster Carr. If they don't have it, few will. Goto their site, search orings, and click square cross section. Yep, thats where I saw "bags of 100 for $6.12" I really need a new fresh seal to get measurements from. (digital calipers). Mine is shredded. If anybody has a new gun with a fresh seal, put some calipers to it. Once I have the measurements Ill hunt for something close. If I can get something to work, for that affordably, I promise I will share the bag with everybody. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lt.Fenix Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Finally took some pics of my WE M4 the other day. -BT KAC Knights Armament Style RIS Rail Handguard -Command Arms UPG16 Pistol Grip -Custom Machined Steel Commando Length Barrel Extension -DPMS Aluminum 1-Rail Gas Block -Guarder XM177E2 Flash Hider -G&P Tactical Laser -G&P Systema Extended Stock QD Sling Mount -G&P X9 High Pressure Xenon Alunimium Hand Torch -King Arms Folding Battle Sight Set -King Arms QD Sling Swivel for 20mm Rail -King Arms Quick Release Flashlight Mount -KM M16 Sling -Magpul CTR Mil-spec Stock /w Rubber Pad -NC STAR Panorama Electro Red/Green Dot Sight -Nitro.Vo Rail Sleeve 16 for M4 Series -UTG Rail Vertical Grip I usually don't like vertical foregrips on carbines, but with the flashlight attached it looked kind of empty without it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cephas Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) ^ I spent my entire day on Friday looking for a suitable replacement. First the hardware store........nothing. Then a company who deals with industrial seals...........nothing. Then a welding supply.......nothing. Then a car parts place who deals with rebuild kits for carbs........nothing. Last resort was Depot and Lowes - nothing. At Depot I did see the neoprene washers that somebody else used but the inner diameter is too small - he had to sit there with a dremel tool opening it up for it to work. No thanks. Not that much work, especially how FAST these wear out. Id be fabricating washers every few days. (plus neoprene isnt a good mix with gas/chemicals) Id like to find the correct or suitable replacement - affordably. PS... Inidentally, the washer is actually a "face seal o-ring" ...........not a cup washer. You don't need a flat rubber washer. What I'm using right now is #83 O-ring 1/2" outer diameter x 5/16' inner diameter made by Danco,found in the O-ring section at Home Depot. This is better then neoprene washer suggestion that I gave earlier. A pack of 10 for under 5 bucks. Its works better then flat rubber washer provided by WE. It kicks even harder then when I got it. NO MODIFICATION REQUIRED. Edited January 13, 2009 by Cephas Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 You don't need a flat rubber washer. What I'm using right now is "#83 O-ring" found in the O-ring section at Home Depot, which is better then neoprene washer suggestion that I gave earlier. A pack of 10 for under 5 bucks. Its works better then flat rubber washer provided by WE. It kicks even harder then when I got it. NO MODIFICATION REQUIRED. Ill go to Depot tonight. Every O-ring I tried "dragged". Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kilo_64 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Finally took some pics of my WE M4 the other day. -BT KAC Knights Armament Style RIS Rail Handguard -Command Arms UPG16 Pistol Grip -Custom Machined Steel Commando Length Barrel Extension -DPMS Aluminum 1-Rail Gas Block -Guarder XM177E2 Flash Hider -G&P Tactical Laser -G&P Systema Extended Stock QD Sling Mount -G&P X9 High Pressure Xenon Alunimium Hand Torch -King Arms Folding Battle Sight Set -King Arms QD Sling Swivel for 20mm Rail -King Arms Quick Release Flashlight Mount -KM M16 Sling -Magpul CTR Mil-spec Stock /w Rubber Pad -NC STAR Panorama Electro Red/Green Dot Sight -Nitro.Vo Rail Sleeve 16 for M4 Series -UTG Rail Vertical Grip HOLY *suitcase*! THAT GRIP IS SICK! How does it feel compared with the g26 grip? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) I got a small problem with my gun in the trigger assembly...I guess the disconector don't works properly Her's a pic when hammer is ready to shoot: then after the shoot: The other problem I got is the following: I received my gun with the disconnector upside down. I disassembled the trigger carrier and setted it back in the good position. Now I'm unable to put the selector in the SAFE position and must set it on Auto in order to close the gun! Do anybody knows where the problem is with this part?(on the explosion it is part 48) Small update: I just tested my M4(its late in night si I tested with a home made silencer...now my gun fires in AUTO (before it did only shot one round then made a big cloud...) but I don't have SAFE anymore...I just ordered a new Trigger assembly at Airsoft Budy and it should be shipped out this afternoon as said by William. Edited January 13, 2009 by Eliminator Quote Link to post Share on other sites
yanng Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 @rottenotto : Do you still have the part n°37 ? Maybe your gas system isn't centered inside the cylinder and this would be why your part n°122 is wearing out so fast. The small oring n°37 corrects and recenters the gas system, but it is a very bad way to do this. It looks like a cheap fix. I hope there will be some replacement parts that will actually center the gas system. My washer was pretty worn out when I received the gun but I was able to fire 2000 rounds and it still fires fine but I will replace it asap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 @rottenotto : Do you still have the part n°37 ? Maybe your gas system isn't centered inside the cylinder and this would be why your part n°122 is wearing out so fast. The small oring n°37 corrects and recenters the gas system, but it is a very bad way to do this. It looks like a cheap fix. I hope there will be some replacement parts that will actually center the gas system. My washer was pretty worn out when I received the gun but I was able to fire 2000 rounds and it still fires fine but I will replace it asap. Hi Yanng, Yes, I still have this tiny o-ring present. But I do notice as well that the the gas valve/tube doesnt align perfectly with the cylinder. It leans and this is an issue at times. Also bolt #36 comes loose from firing after a short while. I always rotate the valve/tube to get it aligned before snugging up bolt #36. There is always a "sweet spot" where it is centered the best. It almost as if the tube is not cut "square". It leans a little. The o-ring is there for sealing not alignment from what I see and may actually be the reason for it leaning. O-rings are notorious for this when used as "spacers" or barrel washers on front barrel nut/RIS installations (The barrel leans or is at an angle). They dont compress evenly. As for O-ring #83 from Depot I bought them - as it turns out I already had bought the same size on Friday. They dont work properly in my gun. Sure the gun fires, but they are a tick too large and drag on the cylinder. Round O-rings have too much friction. The gun cycles slowly and is noticably difficult to charge. Also the muzzle report changes to a strained "poof" sound. It is not the correct part. The good news is that William is selling 10 packs of part #122 for 5.95!! Yay! I just ordered a pack this morning. All is good ; ) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 (edited) Well this is interesting..... http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_vie...products_id=189 $5.00 for a 5 pack...... Just sent off an email for a quote on the 10 pack for 5.95....we'll see what happens. Edited January 13, 2009 by 4boost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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