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First look at the H.K 3Px4 GBB

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I would say comparable. I would have to run them side by side to realy tell. My 1911 isn't going to reamain stock though, managed to get a prime bodykit for £20 :)

 

Thanks for the info :P Haha I doubt the prime body kit would make much of a difference in terms of the gas required to propel the BB out of the 1911 :P (In fact it shouldn't since theoretically the only things that control the flight of the bb is the rocket valve spring, the valve weight, gas used, whether you have a high flow valve or not, the bucking, barrel and nozzle..if those stay the same and in the same position in battery as the stock gun there should theoretically be no difference in the fps and range of the bb :D) Though congrats on managing to find such a good deal for an MBK XD

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.4? Whoa...do you have any idea of the FPS?

If it's not unbearably slow, I'll pick up a bag and try them out.

 

Also, I polished my barrel to the point where it'll blind anyone looking...xD I think it looks great, except it caused there to be much more wobble from the barrel to the slide. Has anyone come up with a way to reduce the wobble? I tried shunning the little nub on the bottom of the barrel, but couldn't get anything to stay. Any ideas?

Need to chrono.

I used to use Digicon.43s back in the day. .4s do fly slower, but they are more accurate, cut through foliage and have a little more "feel " when they hit.

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by feel, i guess you mean that the person you hit can't shrug it off because they are too busy swearing?

Some people have the unfortunate habit of not calling hit from single shots (" must be a ricochet") If the BB has a bit of "Thwack" to it, they know its from a single shot weapon and not a "lost" shot from a burst that missed. I would never intentional inflict pain on an honest player.

I have in the past taken a burst of .43s from a full auto WA Prokiller...

 

Back on topic, its a great pistol, buy one now!

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Some people have the unfortunate habit of not calling hit from single shots (" must be a ricochet") If the BB has a bit of "Thwack" to it, they know its from a single shot weapon and not a "lost" shot from a burst that missed. I would never intentional inflict pain on an honest player.

I have in the past taken a burst of .43s from a full auto WA Prokiller...

 

Back on topic, its a great pistol, buy one now!

 

I know this is off topic, but I just wanted to point out from my observations the heavier bbs I use in my TM 1911 the less 'pain' the others feel. I ran 0.2g at a CQB game and my gun chronos very close to 1J; and apparently the 0.2gs hurt like hell and left internally bleeding welts. When I ran 0.3g bbs I left marks on bare skin in CQB but it wasnt as bad as internally bleeding welts from my 0.2g bbs.

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A curious thing, considering the energy and cross section are constant. The only variable would be the amount of hop, probably scrubbs off some of the energy having to put more spin on a heavier BB. Someone with the time and the patience could do some measurements on a chrono with the various weights hop on and hop off.

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A curious thing, considering the energy and cross section are constant. The only variable would be the amount of hop, probably scrubbs off some of the energy having to put more spin on a heavier BB. Someone with the time and the patience could do some measurements on a chrono with the various weights hop on and hop off.

 

Illusion on ASC said that in fact when using heavier bbs the energy (Joules) should be higher given that the bb stays in the hop up longer as more inertia is required to move it plus you'll set the hop higher and that provides more friction for the bb to overcome; leading to the gas in the BBU to be able to compress longer and therefore a higher pressure being reached before the bb leaves the barrel, which should 'theoretically' increase the energy output when you use heavier bbs and set the hop up to correspond to the backspin needed to keep the heavier bb from dropping out of the air quickly. Anyway, I forgot whether Illusion had actual experience and data in regards to the above but theoretically that should be true, albeit I haven't tested it out myself. I believe that with the heavier bb the impact on the skin is longer than with the 0.2gs. As such instead of feeling like you got 'flicked' on the skin with a finger it'll feel like someone 'poked' you with the same energy. Poking seems to 'sting' less than getting flicked so I think that's the reason why the heavier bb don't hurt as much (in CQB environments...almost forgot to mention that. Maybe at longer distances like woodlands the 0.3g can keep it's energy more than the 0.2g and therefore the 0.3g would hurt more). However I can't explain why I managed to give several of my friends a 'third nipple' (that's the way they put it :P) with the 0.2g bbs but I only leave a red mark on my friends with a 0.3g bb shooting from the same pistol.

 

Also another curious thing while we're talking about how much bbs can hurt is when I use the TK Twist barrel in my gun shooting at 0.9-1J it hurts so much more than my Nine Ball barrel. I've gamed with a couple of my high school friends and they all had internally bleeding welts compared to getting shot with AEGs that are some 0.2-0.3J higher than my pistol with stock barrels and hop. All of us were using 0.2g bbs so the weight is not the issue. I'm guessing that probably the TK Twist design allows less turbulence to build up behind the bb when it leaves the barrel and therefore during the bb's flight path it 'bleeds' off less energy than with the normal smooth-bore barrels we use in the gun; therefore although my gun chronos at some 0.9J from the muzzle and the AEGs I played against chronos 1.3J from the muzzle at 10 meters out my gun might chrono at 0.8J whilst the AEGs might chrono at 0.6J instead. Again this is just my theory and I don't have the sufficient scientific knowledge to back that up and from my own research on airsoft forums there isn't concrete evidence on how exactly the TK Twist barrel works other than airsofters being able to note down the effects of the bb's flight path with the twist barrel compared to the smooth bore ones. I think there was another user report on ASM that mentioned the same thing as I did but with AEGs and the TK Twist barrel (namely that it hurts more).

There is a new revision:

 

Hmm is that the part where users have noted that it breaks off after heavy use on the HK3P PX4?

Edited by intinerious

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On the original, that part of the inner slide just in front of the lower right leg of the BBH does indeed look very thin. By making the "leg" a bit shorter, they're able to thicken the cross member so it's a consistent thickness right across the "roof" of the slide. Beats me why it wasn't designed that way from the get go.

 

Actually, looking closely, I see the start of a vertical crack on the "original" right where the cross member goes from thick to thin.

 

Can anyone post up an identical view inside a TM PX4 slide?

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A lot of US Retailers are selling these as WE Storm / 3Px4 for $100...

 

Wow - that's a real sign of quality, isn't it?

 

In my experience, any gun that's worth less than $100 isn't worth the trouble - & doubly so if it's by WE!

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Wow - that's a real sign of quality, isn't it?

 

In my experience, any gun that's worth less than $100 isn't worth the trouble - & doubly so if it's by WE!

 

 

Price is not a real sign of quality, because if it is ARES and Systema AEGs/PTWs would not have any issues.

 

Anyway, other than the odd issue here and there (sorry AsianDraggon I can't figure out your problem because I haven't had problems from any of the PX4 owners I've encountered in HK) the HK3P PX4 runs just as well as the TM one. This thread already have enough details to, I would believe, sway potential buyers to get it since it is one of the best clone GBB pistol out in the market today at a cheap price...so I dunno if you even read the thread before writing your comments.

Edited by intinerious

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Price is not a real sign of quality, because if it is ARES and Systema AEGs/PTWs would not have any issues.

 

Anyway, other than the odd issue here and there (sorry AsianDraggon I can't figure out your problem because I haven't had problems from any of the PX4 owners I've encountered in HK) the HK3P PX4 runs just as well as the TM one. This thread already have enough details to, I would believe, sway potential buyers to get it since it is one of the best clone GBB pistol out in the market today at a cheap price...so I dunno if you even read the thread before writing your comments.

 

Alright, you make a good point about Ares, & Systema AEGs - however...

 

... Pardon me your highness, for airing my concerns on a discussion forum. I was merely drawing from my prior experiences owning Tokyo Marui clones in the past & them being nothing but trouble!

 

Personally, I'd far rather go Tokyo Marui & be guaranteed quality straight out of the box - instead of buying a cheap copy of 'similar' (BUT NOT THE SAME) quality, constructed out of naff (BUT DISTRACTINGLY SHINY) pot metal...

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Alright, you make a good point about Ares, & Systema AEGs - however...

 

... Pardon me your highness, for airing my concerns on a discussion forum. I was merely drawing from my prior experiences owning Tokyo Marui clones in the past & them being nothing but trouble!

 

Personally, I'd far rather go Tokyo Marui & be guaranteed quality straight out of the box - instead of buying a cheap copy of 'similar' (BUT NOT THE SAME) quality, constructed out of naff (BUT DISTRACTINGLY SHINY) pot metal...

 

Pardon me your highness, but like you said, it's a discussion forum and I (and everybody else) have the right to post opposing opinions about what others think with any relevant justifications to their arguments.

 

You can draw your own prior experiences from TM clones and I agree with you that most of the other clones are complete ###### since the materials they use and their tolerances are bad. I thought my Bell 1911 was awesome until the pot-metal screws started to break on me, leading to the lower frame being unusable. I switched the whole gun onto a spare TM plastic lower frame and one of the pin holes do not line up correctly to my dismay. Luckily even if the pin hole didn't fit (therefore the pin being unable to fit through) the gun still worked and I've got a franken-gun in my hands right now that can be used as a backup weapon :D

 

However, given that the multitude of posts for this thread should convince people to have a second look at it or even buy it since it's half the price of a TM and the slide is actually chemically treated with colour as opposed to painted, I believe those that have handled the gun first hand or have owned one have their opinions weight more than yours with your assumptions that all TM clones are *suitcase*. With you not addressing any of the other posts about this gun implies you have not even read the whole thread (and it's only 5 pages dude, come on!) and that's kinda ignorant of you considering your replying post.

 

If you want to personally go for the TM with its guaranteed OOTB quality, that's fine. Hell I'd go for it myself if I have the cash (then upgrade it with a Detonator metal slide for the awesomeness!). What irks me is that you are making an assumption that the gun is pot metal and is constructed out of naff. The slide material is actually VERY good (esp. the finish) and is not made of pot metal, although the controls are. Guess what TM uses for their internals; it's pot metal too (albeit might be a bit better). Just because certain parts of the gun are made with pot metal doesn't mean that it's going to break on you easily. My WE SCAR still uses the OEM pot metal trigger components and bolt and so far besides a little hiccup with the DESIGN of the gun, the pot metal has held up fine for 5-6k rounds.

 

With your replying post above, it clearly shows that you have NEVER even held one of the HK3P guns before and I would think that you should heed the information posted by those who have before you try to justify your opinions with factually wrong reasoning. There is NOTHING wrong with you posting your own opinion on this forum (I myself would hate others trying to tell people to basically 'stfu'; see my post on the news thread for the WE AK74 PMC) but what IS WRONG is that you completely ignored what the rest of us with real experience with the gun said and therefore making the wrong assumptions; including your post replying to mine.

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So, if I get one of these and put some aftermarket steel controls on it(surely some manufacturer made some, like Guarder?)... it will be vastly superior to TM external-wise?

 

This new brand of GBB pistol seems very promising(affordable/full metal Samurai Edge M9 reignited my passion for zombie killing).

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From what I gather, the slide is made of pot metal?? Or is it just not very good Aluminum?

 

The only problem I've had with the slide is the small little sliver of metal that snaps off on the inside as discussed previously in this thread.

 

Other than that, my Px4 is running great with a PDI 6.01 and Nine Ball rubber.

 

-Ex

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So, if I get one of these and put some aftermarket steel controls on it(surely some manufacturer made some, like Guarder?)... it will be vastly superior to TM external-wise?

 

This new brand of GBB pistol seems very promising(affordable/full metal Samurai Edge M9 reignited my passion for zombie killing).

 

I haven't seen steel control parts for it yet; but I sure hope some company make it. Lemme answer your question about the slide below with my other reply to Retro-Cow's post.

 

Also the HK3P GBB Pistols seem to be very good value for money. I know some members on Arnies already have the HK3P Samurai Edge but I haven't seen a review yet. Take a look at the News Thread (I think) for the Samurai Edge clone, the consensus is that it's pretty good too.

From what I gather, the slide is made of pot metal?? Or is it just not very good Aluminum?

 

The slide is not made of pot metal and the black slide is not painted; the stuff is anodized I believe or at least chemically treated such that from a visual comparison to the guarder metal kits the slide finishing is almost the same. I dunno what you are going with when you say whether it's made of not very good aluminium but the slide quality is certainly not what you would expect for a clone pistol; the slide is very good. In fact, I would view the slide alone to be worthy of a metal slide upgrade kit by itself (which HK3P offers but as the whole slide assembly). I'm not sure whether the airsoft shops you guys frequent (I'm assuming there's one nearby where you guys live? Apologies if that's not true) but trust me; if you get to try one of these HK3P PX4s out you'll be amazed at the quality given the cheap price.

 

As for the plastic of the gun; like I've said before it's the same ABS plastic you see used on guns like the KSC Glocks. I've held the TM original and the clone side-by-side before and although it's common knowledge that the TM plastic would be superior I was actually disappointed that it wasn't anything special over the HK3P ABS plastic.

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