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Going to put this in a wanted add when I get round to it, but I thought I would post it here, considering its purely 1911 related and not so many people check the wanted adds that will tend to check this thread. Anyway, I am in desperate need of an R-Type blowback unit (with the holes for Bomars + the bomars) I can trade for an SCW2 one with Wilson marked fixed combat sights or can pay some monies for it.

 

Also, I would like a PGC/Prime metal slide or frame. Can be for 1911 or 2011, I don't really care. It can be in any cosmetic state or even completely FUBAR. Price offered will obviously reflect its state. I need to do some tests on it.......

;)

PM me or post here, if you have anything,

Thanks

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I only sanded it yesterday so don't ask how i keep it shiny wink.gif it scratches pretty easily, if that happens I tend to just run some wet and dry over it a couple of times.

 

ive heard toothpaste works well for keeping the shine..

 

Toothpaste does'nt really help keep shine it's just an abrasive paste, but good for finishing off something if you have nothing else to hand.

 

I've found AutoSol polishes to be great for keeping polished ally shiny for longer periods of time.

I used to have this ally piston as a gear lever in my old '68 Escort and as a guy with sweaty palms it used to tarnish every third gear change :rolleyes: AutoSol polish did help keep it from tarnishing for a longer period of time.

You can get autosol stuff from halfords or a local motorfactors.

 

http://www.thepolishingshop.biz/acatalog/Metal_Polish.html

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hbc, why're you ditching the silencer? :(  It really finishes off the assassin look.

 

 

agreed. HBC that's one of a kind. it's funny how you have turned one of the worst looking silencers (supressors) i have ever seen into one of the best. it looks as real a pistol silencer i have ever seen.

i beg you not to get rid of it.

if i had a suitable 1911 i would buy it myself. although i'm tempted to buy it off you now then sell it back to you for double when you see the error of your ways and come to me on bended knee.

i know you say you need the money but is it really worth getting rid of it just for the sake of £40? if yes then fair enough but imho i really really don't think it is.

 

so just to confirm...........

 

KEEP IT!!!!!!!!!!!11111133733733773"!$£412!"$!"%32643"£!!!!!///

 

..........

cheers

chris

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Ok, now that I've finished reading all 142 pages to this point, and I've done some pretty in-depth searches on the rest of the forums, I wanted to ask a question and get some input from you fellow WA 1911 owners.

 

I've recently become the owner of a pair of WA Swat Custom TLEII's, previously owned by another forum member who added real Kimber grips to the guns. While the real grips do enhance the overall look of the gun, there is one area in which they make a drastic change to the gun; the overall weight. Since the grips on the TLEII's are made from solid metal, with a rubber-ish feeling black color sprayed over them, they help to add a fair chunk of 'realism' weight to the gun. I'm going to actually weigh them vs. the wood Kimber grips later tonight for an actual number in weight difference, but suffice it to say that it changes the balance and heft of the gun enough to concern me.

 

My question to other 1911 owners out there, that have this situation were the original grips contribute a significant portion to the overall weight, what are your opinions on using real steel grips instead? Do you feel the end result of the look/feel of the real grips is worth the weight trade-off? Do you care? If there were a solution to add weight back to the gun, while still using real steel grips, would you be interested?

 

Myself, I find that I'm switching back and forth between the original grips, and the Kimber grips pretty frequently. The primary reason is due to the weight feeling, but the secondary one is that the Kimber grips are actually quite smooth, and don't really bite into your hand, whereas the originals have quite good checkering on them that feels much more tacky to me. However, with the wide range of aftermarket grips available for these guns, and the nice customizing opportunity they present, I'm trying to work on a way to allow me to use aftermarket real steel grips, but still get some weight back into the frame. I thought using a metal frame might help, but I'm told the aluminum frames currently available are pretty close in weight to their HW ABS counterparts anyway.

 

I'm currently thinking over a lead plate solution, that would go in the opening in the frame to the magwell, under the grips. Since there is a little lip in there, I'm thinking that a custom-cast or formed lead plate dropped in there would add some good weight back into the gun, while still allowing you to use whatever grips struck your fancy.

 

Yes, feel free to call me crazy. This is what crazy people do when they're too broke to buy more guns! :P

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My new TM M1911A1 :P

 

It's definitely TMs best pistol externally and one of the best internally, glad I bought it :D

Looks so nice...I can't wait for mine. The trades are really clear in that last picture, where'd you pick up this pistol? I don't see any black glue or any of that *beep* anywhere.

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Looks so nice...I can't wait for mine.  The trades are really clear in that last picture, where'd you pick up this pistol?  I don't see any black glue or any of that *beep* anywhere.

 

Ehobby Asia, my friend--you'll just have to deal with the orange paint, but be careful with some nail polish remover and you'll have no problems--

 

My unmolested TM 1911 from Ehobby is a few pages back.

 

Cost me 168 USD's with another mag, and arrived literally 3 days after I ordered it online--phsyics-defying fast shipping.

 

Steve

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Ah, didn't notice buddy  :)

Thats the word I want to hear.  Maybe that's where I'll order from next time.

 

They are my favorite overseas vendor. I have bought more then a few things from them over the past few months. Having their shipping prices displayed with the products lets you eyeball just how much you are saving over domestic sites--if I had bought the same package from AEX, which I was planning on doing, I would have speant 25 bucks more once you factor in California Tax--and they are still out of stock at my local retailer!

 

Beyond that--I sure love this pistol. Best GBB I've owned, and I've owned a few.

 

Steve

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Uncooldude, I think it's prime that does actually sell a pair of metal plates to go in that area in the frame you mentioned. I have never seen them sold outside Japan though. They are relatively easy to make though. Get some steel plate or whatever metal you want to use that is the correct thickness. Get one of the WA grip weights and mark the outline on the metal plate and then cut them out. Have the real steel grips on the pistol, then put some glue/double sided tape on the new grip weights you've made and insert them into the pistol via the magwell. Doing it this way ensures they get stuck down in the right place and don't prevent you from putting the grips on.

Edited by hitmanNo2
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I've never had any trouble after installing RS grips, they always feel much better than stock plastic or metal grips..

 

If you aren't happy with the weight, I'd have to say that if you plan on upgrading, get a steel chamber and barrel, adds a nice bit of heft to the middle of the gun.. I find the balance perfect on my kimber..

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Uncooldude, easier way, get a steel kit for your tle, I'm sure weight will increase even with wood grips. :P

 

I prefer RS grips, much better feel and look. And I don't care about weight loss.

 

I had no idea that they even made a steel kit for these guns. Any suggestions on where to look for something like that? I'll check the usual sites, of course, but if you know of a vendor that sells them, please let me know. Since the guns already have aluminum SD slides on them, a whole metal kit would be kind of pointless, and the other factor to consider is the cost. I'm not too interested in going out into the realm of stupid-high costs for the sake of realistic weight, if a cheaper solution will work.

 

 

Uncooldude, I think it's prime that does actually sell a pair of metal plates to go in that area in the frame you mentioned.  I have never seen them sold outside Japan though.  They are relatively easy to make though. Get some steel plate or whatever metal you want to use that is the correct thickness.  Get one of the WA grip weights and mark the outline on the metal plate and then cut them out.  Have the real steel grips on the pistol, then put some glue/double sided tape on the new grip weights you've made and insert them into the pistol via the magwell.  Doing it this way ensures they get stuck down in the right place and don't prevent you from putting the grips on.

 

I actually considered going the metal plate route, as you've described, but the weight of actual steel is quite a bit lighter than the pot metal used in the stock metal grips. Steel just doesn't have the same density that lead, or 'pot metal' has. My TLEII's also do not have grip weights. The grips themselves are the weight. The whole grip is one solid piece of metal, that's sprayed with a black, rubberish coating. I know that other WA pistols use the weights, but my particular guns don't. The other thing is that my frame cut-outs have a little lip on the inside edge, at the top and bottom, so it's not necessary to tape or attach a weight plate that fits tightly in there to the grips. These lips would hold the plate away from the inserted mag, and not interfere with the grip installation. I'll have to take some photos of what I'm talking about, and post them so you can see what I mean. I'm just wondering if I should start a project thread regarding this instead?

 

 

I've never had any trouble after installing RS grips, they always feel much better than stock plastic or metal grips..

 

If you aren't happy with the weight, I'd have to say that if you plan on upgrading, get a steel chamber and barrel, adds a nice bit of heft to the middle of the gun.. I find the balance perfect on my kimber..

 

I don't have any trouble installing or using the gun either after installing the real steel grips. The problem I have is the weight loss the gun experiences after doing so, because the original grips are solid metal. Again, while I think the real Kimber grips do look better, handling is another story altogether. The real Kimber wood grips are very smooth in texture. The 'checkering' has no real point to it, to bite into your hand when held. They feel smooth as a baby's butt. 'Grippiness' aside, I do like the look of real steel grips, and would love to use them on a regular basis, but I'd like to at least get some of the weight lost by removing the original metal grips back. Thus the reason for my inquiry.

 

 

 

Thanks for your input thus far guys, it really helps seeing what other owners think of the swap, and subsequent weight changes in the guns. I was curious to know if anyone was as anal about the whole weight thing as I was.

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