Mathub Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Titleist, as you live in the US, why don't you grab a wilson beavertail grip safety meant for 70's frames ? It's quite cheap. Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 (edited) Are SCW3 metal kits fully compatible with SCW2 base GBBs? If not, where do the incompatibilities lie and can it be modified to fit or is it a matter of overhauling internals? Edited March 15, 2007 by davedawg123 Link to post Share on other sites
witemagic666 Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Basically I really want this pistol: Western Arms Shibuya Shop SVI Single Column Pistol 1911-5.0 (WA-CWI) I have scaled the net to try and find a supplier that are not out of stock, but have come up empty handed. So if anyone has any idea of where to find one in stock please let me know. I am aware that it was used in dumboRAT'S castor troy tribute....just cant find the ###### thing in stock anywhere lol Would like to find this lovely gun to customise till my hearts content Link to post Share on other sites
Hades Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 (edited) Here is my TM/PGC Kimber Classic style 1911. Trying to figure out, duracoat or blast everything and reanodize. The gun schematics are: PGC Frame custom SD Kimber Slide 3 Hole Trigger Skeleton Hammer Full Spring Guide SD Bushing set SD Nowlin Chamber SD Straight Barrel Palsonite 05 Inner Barrel Zero Ops Pistol tune "Refresh" Edited March 15, 2007 by Hades Link to post Share on other sites
CplHicks Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Thats a nice 1911. Who makes the Kimber slide? Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 SD Kimber Slide <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to post Share on other sites
CplHicks Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Oops my bad. Next question is it one for the Hicapa? Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 I really need some help here. Are there any proper Western Arms Gunsmiths in the UK? Because my V10 is still broken, I can't get my head around the problem, and I don't want to risk permenantly damaging the parts.. If anyone has had this problem before, by all means give me some advice. Essentially, the main issue is that for some reason, with the new slide installed the following occurs... During cocking/firing, the barrel-chamber assembly tilts forwards instead of backwards, meaning the outer chamber does not slide back over the inner chamber, causing the gun to lock up and vent all the gas from the magazine.. This is a big problem, it renders my compact useless, especially since I've already sold the TF slide.. so any help from experienced members is appreciated, and anyone who can point me to a professional WA gunsmith in this country (London area would be great) I will definately owe you one, +1 if ya like that sorta thing.. ta. Link to post Share on other sites
phoenix360mute Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 do you want me to have a look at it? same as last time, if i dont fix it no charge, if i do a tenner Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 I know A2 has their WA specialist technician. I've used them before and they fixed the problem. You could also try eliteairsoft maybe. Can you post some pics of the inner chamber and actual chamber set up? If no one else offers to help, i'll have a look at it for you. I can test my steel V10 chamber/barrel and the stock one, swap out slides, frames etc and try to isolate the problem. Link to post Share on other sites
phoenix360mute Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 if its the case of the outer barrel then go with hitman then, i dont have any spare compact parts at the moment , just loads of internals, but to tell you the truth it sounds like the problem is coming from the inner chamber/hop-up unit, connecting to the inner barrel, and also the fact that you chave the wrong outer barrel for the slide in question doesnt really help you alot Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 If it helps you diagnose at all.. I just assembled all the internals in the original V10 frame.. The slide actually cycles better with the steel barrel/chamber than with the stock barrel/chamber.. There is still no tilt back in the barrel, it just sits flat or tilts forward. The problem is certainly related to the slide imo, since the setup functioned perfectly with the TF slide. At the moment, my intuition (such as it is) tells me that the tommy franks slide is thicker at the top, which means the chamber/barrel are more prone to moving downwards.. the SD v10 slide has a wierd dip in it.. and when the slide is drawn back, instead of the inner chamber shifting downwards it stays in position and jams against the outer chamber. Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 hbc, I've had the same problem with my compact from prime. I had to file the chamber. If you look carefully, you'll see a difference between an original WA chamber, and the prime one. I made the prime look like a WA stock one. Just file in the red area. Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 I wish that was the issue, however I filed the chamber down long ago.. I'm really at a total loss as to the problem.., I can't believe that it could really be the slide being too loose, because if that's the case then Boomarms are selling faulty goods. I mean, granted with prime you have some work to do, but at least you get a good fit in the end.. -- just put the stock slide on the v10 with all the same internals and the chamber cycles as per usual.. im very very cunfused Link to post Share on other sites
Titleist Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Titleist, as you live in the US, why don't you grab a wilson beavertail grip safety meant for 70's frames ? It's quite cheap. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Got a link to where I can start looking to source a beaver tail? Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 (edited) Titleist, here : http://www.wilsoncombat.com/a_beavertail_safeties_di.asp Half the price of a sheriff one. hbc, did you try the SD slide, the prime frame, and the stock barrel/chamber assembly ? I forget to mention that I removed the little metal piece that look like an egg with one big hole from the hop unit. Then my chamber is only attached to the hop unit by the little metal rod. Edit : part n° 122 on this diagram : PIC Edited March 15, 2007 by Mathub Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 hbc, did you try the SD slide, the prime frame, and the stock barrel/chamber assembly ? I forget to mention that I removed the little metal piece that look like an egg with one big hole from the hop unit. Then my chamber is only attached to the hop unit by the little metal rod. Edit : part n° 122 on this diagram : PIC <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yes I did try that combination, incidentally the bloody nozzle has started sticking in the forward position when I test fired the gun, but I think this is a byproduct rather than an issue with the nozzle itself.. -- About the egghole piece of metal.. hmm, I guess I could try that, did you need to remove it to get your gun working? So it's not really needed for the gun to work then? Link to post Share on other sites
Titleist Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Mathub, which of those do I get? Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 About the egghole piece of metal.. hmm, I guess I could try that, did you need to remove it to get your gun working? So it's not really needed for the gun to work then? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yes, the same with SD steel chamber. If I let this piece, the slide stick with the top of the chamber. Titleist, the goverment one I think. (Commander's rear of frame is different if I recall correctly). Link to post Share on other sites
IronWolf Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 HBC, it might be worth shooting off an email, they are very experienced with modifying WA GBB's Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 (edited) Ok, now I'm really ###### off. After putting the internals back into the prime frame, the issue with the nozzle is still happening.. essentially the nozzle is sticking out and is really hard to budge.. but if I pull it out all the way to the rubber o ring at the back it suddenly loosens up.. I have absolutely no idea what's going on.. :( ----------------------- AAAAAAAAAAAH AHHHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAA ---- Ahem, sorry about that, it seems (after I swapped blowback chambers between the two guns, that the v10 is now firing fine.. the tommy franks is firing also, not sure why the blowback chamber didnt want to work with the v10 slide but meh, oh well.. ---- I managed to fire off an entire magazine from the v10 without any issues.. the chamber still doesnt roll back over the inner chamber, but because I removed that egghole part the chamber sits low enough so that it does not rub against the top of the slide.. ---- I'll give an update tomorrow after I've fully tested each gun.. thanks for all the help people.. Edited March 15, 2007 by hardboiledcop Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 Forgot to mention that on my ultra cdp2, I had to file the top of the nozzle. Cause it was sticking in the chamber. Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 hmm, any chance of an image showing exactly which part you filed down? and have you ever experienced the wierd issue with the nozzle being stuck forward.. even when I removed it from the slide it took a lot of effort to push the nozzle back into the blowbackchamber.. like there was some pressure in there which doesnt eliviate until you pull the nozzle all the way out (past the o ring) cheers. Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 Pics : Make sure the oring is in place on the piston. That may be why your nozzle stick forward. Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 cheers mate, I'll set about doing that if the problem persists.. strangely enough after swapping the blowback chambers and removing that egghole piece, the gun now kicks at least 1.5 times harder than it did before.. the chamber/barrel are free moving but they are low enough in the slide for the top of the slide to just run over them and not jam. Hopefully the second gun will be as simple to fix.. when the slide arrives. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts