lightprocess Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 They aren't really that red, it must have been my camera or something. Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 would look great with a springfield milspec kit. Link to post Share on other sites
lightprocess Posted June 7, 2007 Report Share Posted June 7, 2007 I really wish I could, but I need to conserve funds for the TM MEU and 5-7. Link to post Share on other sites
_maverick_ Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Beautiful guns everyone Sorry to go off topic here but Do you guys think someone will make kimber after market slides for TM's MEU? I love the look of the Kimbers and would get a WA, but seeing I need more of a practical skirmish weapon and the MEU looks closer to a kimber than the GM... My other problem is that I'm selling my USP, so I need a gbb soon and I'm not sure if I should buy a GM and build my kimber wannabe from that or wait for the MEU. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 (edited) I love the look of the Kimbers and would get a WA, but seeing I need more of a practical skirmish weapon and the MEU looks closer to a kimber than the GM... huh? A WA that is not skirmish worthy? what R U talking about? You mean a WA is out of your price range. . .if you want a metal slide & all? I don't many WAs that are NOT skirmish worthy. .you're smoking some crack buddy. ..(give me some) correction: I don't know many WA 1911s (or 2011s) that are NOT skirmish worthy. .whether stock or upgraded Edited June 8, 2007 by the cleaner Link to post Share on other sites
Fuser Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Do you guys think someone will make kimber after market slides for TM's MEU? I love the look of the Kimbers and would get a WA, but seeing I need more of a practical skirmish weapon and the MEU looks closer to a kimber than the GM... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'd say wait for the MEU but there's a Just Handguns subforum where you can ask these questions in the future. Moar Pictures! Link to post Share on other sites
trfo2o Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 ok wow, i'm getting the TM MEU now when it comes out....Blast you all! Link to post Share on other sites
sturgis Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 would get a WA, but seeing I need more of a practical skirmish weapon <{POST_SNAPBACK}> whats this then ? i wouldnt want any other make GBB with me in the field... huh? A WA that is not skirmish worthy? what R U talking about? You mean a WA is out of your price range. . .if you want a metal slide & all? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> you meant what he said? Link to post Share on other sites
_maverick_ Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 I said practical, not skirmish worthy. And by practical I meant a good value for my money gun. My fault for not wording it correctly. A TM will cost me approx. $130, $35 for the mags, and $120-200 for a metal slide and frame depending on what I go with. A WA will cost approx. $200 for the gun, $50 for mags, $250 + for a metal slide and frame, again depending on what I get. So yes, you're right in saying that it's out of my price range. But even if I had more money I'm not sure I would want to spend all that for a secondary skirmish gun. Sorry, I just wanted to see if you guys thought Kimber slides will be available for TM's MEU. Link to post Share on other sites
lightprocess Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Sorry, I just wanted to see if you guys thought Kimber slides will be available for TM's MEU. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I wouldn't count on it, it really depends on the popularity of the gun I suppose, although the Hi-Capa had a nice variety of aftermarket slides. Link to post Share on other sites
Slug Pellets Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 I've been thinking of doing some "gold leafing" on my Tommy Franks slide. .maybe do the lettering on the frame too. . you think that will be "gold" enough? btw. .there's gotta be some Springfield medalions out there somewhere. . .maybe some custom made ones . . I've only seen engraved wood Springfield grips. . <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Gold leafing would be great. I wanted to paint the stars on the slide like the real one but thats going to take a finer brush, and a steady hand. I had a look about for some other medallions, but all I could find was colt/ruger/browning/delta ones. I'm probably looking in the wrong places though. Link to post Share on other sites
MagpulMercenary Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Virgin TM w/ half-checkered cocobolo grips. Im diggin those grips man. Not something you see everyday, I love the red. Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Got some new bits today. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 new grips on my 3.9 IED Desert Warrior grips in Brazilian Kingwood Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 (edited) Mathub: That's hot. How was the fitting? Terence: Sweet lens flares. Edited June 8, 2007 by davedawg123 Link to post Share on other sites
Mathub Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Fitting is normal for prime. Understand, keep your hand file next to you. Link to post Share on other sites
sturgis Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 (edited) cleaner, neat grips man! looks hot on that 3.9 now if only the guy would hurry up with mine, all would be well Edited June 8, 2007 by sturgis Link to post Share on other sites
hardboiledcop Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 hi guys, anyone got any advice on polishing up controls? Sort of looking for a chrome finish (buffed) and I need to know what tools I might need (I dont really fancy doing it by hand) so is there any polishing equipment I can get.. Also, is there anyway to stop stock controls tarnishing after removing the original finish? ta. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted June 8, 2007 Report Share Posted June 8, 2007 Chris, if I'm polishing (to a mirror/chrome finish). . I'm removing the originaly finish by glass bead blasting to a satin finish. .from there, it's removing the satin finish with 440 emery cloth. . then can go immediately to a buffing wheel (for aluminum). Try to keep sharp edges sharp and rounded edges rounded. . .alot of people over buff. . it's very easy to do if you don't have patience. I finish off with Blue Coral brand "Blue Magic" (aluminum polish), rub it in. . buff it off. . it leaves a silicone protectant on top to prevent oxidation and oils from fingerprints, etc. If you want to keep the satin finish. . .try shooting it with matte clear coat of automotive lacquer. Another type of matte clear "dull coat" I've used is a polyurethane base, two-part mixture (catalyst). FYI. . for satin finishes. .it's hard to maintain the look with grimy fingerprints caressing it all the time. (well, unless you just put it away in a display case) Higher quality alloy will hold the satin look better than cheap grade alloys and/or pot metals.. for instance. . .a satin finish on a slide/frame made from 6061 or 7076 will hold up better than stock WA bead blasted magwell or beavertail safety. Because stock WA parts are full of impurities. .so oxidation occurs faster and more readily. The same goes for 6061 aluminum vs steel parts. .they polish up differently and hold a satin finish differently You'll also notice that when you start polishing up a stock WA beavertail (many) you'll see a variety of colors show through. ..that's because of the alloy composition. . it's not pure by any means. A different color means a different material used. So keep this in mind. .if you want the entire gun to be satin silver (controls and all). . you might want to consider getting all aftermarket controls. .because if you mix it with WA parts, you may end up with a brass cone barrel or a silver & coppery beavertail safety. . . patience patience patience also. .if you want a really good polishing job (esp. on the frame/slide). .go buy yourself a nice buffing machine .. they go as cheap as $30. Don't even waste your time with a Dremel unless it's for specific controls. Link to post Share on other sites
D*01 Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Not the greatest quality pictures but.... Link to post Share on other sites
101matt1 Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Beautiful. Just beautiful. Digging the grips too. Link to post Share on other sites
the cleaner Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 too bad the anodized slides do not match with the plated frames. .. Link to post Share on other sites
MagpulMercenary Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Regardless of them matching, they are sweet SA V12s! Link to post Share on other sites
sturgis Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 Not the greatest quality pictures but.... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> why, hello Mr. Troy Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted June 9, 2007 Report Share Posted June 9, 2007 (edited) hi guys, anyone got any advice on polishing up controls? Sort of looking for a chrome finish (buffed) and I need to know what tools I might need (I dont really fancy doing it by hand) so is there any polishing equipment I can get.. Also, is there anyway to stop stock controls tarnishing after removing the original finish? ta. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> sand it with p800 grade sandpaper (2 min job max), dremel/rotary tool with toothpaste, wipe. took me around 30 mins to finish the frame: I baked on a clear layer of duracoat, to prevent tarnishing, and to prevent scratches. Edited June 9, 2007 by r.ocelot Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts