1-hit-1-kill Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Um.. which bit are you stuck on (RE: APS2)? Link to post Share on other sites
scar527 Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Um.. which bit are you stuck on (RE: APS2)? Its not that im stuck on it, i just wanted know how to do it on an l96. Link to post Share on other sites
shmook Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 ooh, does this help? ps, i wouldnt advise the "two allen keys and a screwdriver" to take the cylinder apart, it doesnt look too clever Link to post Share on other sites
scar527 Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 ooh, does this help? ps, i wouldnt advise the "two allen keys and a screwdriver" to take the cylinder apart, it doesnt look too clever Ahh yes that would be what i was looking for. Thnx Link to post Share on other sites
ianhaz Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Wondered if you guys could help me out with something. If i was to paint my L96 cylinder black to get rid of the shineyness, would it cause any problems with cocking? Its just currently im working on improving the cam on my l96 and its got about as far as it can go with a chrome rectangle shining away on the side of it Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Wondered if you guys could help me out with something. If i was to paint my L96 cylinder black to get rid of the shineyness, would it cause any problems with cocking? Its just currently im working on improving the cam on my l96 and its got about as far as it can go with a chrome rectangle shining away on the side of it I personally, would not paint the cylinder, to avoid friction wearing off the paint (which means it will still be shiney) or the loose paint causing more friction/wear. Put advantage camo tape over that section. It keeps dirt out of there too. I kept my APS2 MK2 almost pristine by using gun socks and concealing the cylinder/action, despite 5 years of use. That way I got great resale price, as it only had a couple of very minor dings to the woodwork. It looked almost new despite the very crazy of number of days it had been fielded. . Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
ianhaz Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Cheers bushman, a little tape over the ejection port is a great idea thanks Link to post Share on other sites
scar527 Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 I personally, would not paint the cylinder, to avoid friction wearing off the paint (which means it will still be shiney) or the loose paint causing more friction/wear. Put advantage camo tape over that section. It keeps dirt out of there too. I kept my APS2 MK2 almost pristine by using gun socks and concealing the cylinder/action, despite 5 years of use. That way I got great resale price, as it only had a couple of very minor dings to the woodwork. It looked almost new despite the very crazy of number of days it had been fielded. . Good Hunting how well do your gun socks work on a..... Tanaka? Link to post Share on other sites
silent_soul Posted September 12, 2008 Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 Hey i know this is off topic, but ive owned many sniper rifles, and after working on my tm aug which is set up to be a DMR i bought a big out H hop up nub, to give the gun a very accurate hop up while keep it stock. anyways i thought to my self, what about putting one of these H nubs in a pdi hop up unit? i love the accuracy of my vsr but in a pdi unit i would also get left and right adjustment unlike a vsr while still getting the v-hop. so i guess im asking has anyone tried this? Link to post Share on other sites
Bodgeups Posted September 12, 2008 Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 I thought about making an H-rubber, but wasn't sure whether or not it would fit. You'd have to make sure it would fit nice and snug inside the unit. Hell, they aren't that expensive - buy one and cut it to size if it's too big Link to post Share on other sites
silent_soul Posted September 12, 2008 Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 i should have my new fully upgraded maruzen shipped(with some minor assembly) then ill probably order that the day the gun comes and try it out and let everyone know. Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper Posted September 19, 2008 Report Share Posted September 19, 2008 Hi all, Does anyone have a detailed diagram or first hand knowledge of the springs are arranged in a APS2-SV trigger box. There's an images below of which specific ones: All i know is that befor I took it apart from above it looked like this: Link to post Share on other sites
bitchtits Posted September 19, 2008 Report Share Posted September 19, 2008 hey mate with the unit facing forward you want the spring on the left to be forward in the recess, and the spring on the right in the recess behnd the sear. when in side you want the spring on the left to be infront of the bar at the bottom of the sear,and the spring on the right to be behnd the bar on the sear SEARS.bmp Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 Thanks for the reply mate, Ive tried the way you suggested which seemed most probable to me but the springs get caught on 2 little lugs that protrude from the plastic body of the trigger box which only lets the sear move a few mil from side to side. I think the lugs are just for a bit of strengthening as they dont interact with anything (other than getting in the way) so im considering just chopping them off but im not keen on the idea of butchering it Link to post Share on other sites
The General Posted September 25, 2008 Report Share Posted September 25, 2008 An old trick for shiny metal is to use graphite. In its most basic format, get a soft pencil and use that to 'colour' the part. This will give a greatly subdued finish as well as providing lubrication. Though it must be stated, this will rub off with use and might be a bit messy. Its a good trick if a key is sticking in a lock. Considering it will not harm any part of your rifle and can be removed with ease, as well as providing lubrication, its what I would do. Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 Well I got bored of trying to figure every possible way they could go and finally just chopped the little lugs off and positioned the springs the way bitchtits said and it works fine now, no idea how it was working before but problem solved Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 Decided to give my APS2 with its new piston, spring guide and 150SP spring setup a test shoot and chrono. Fired a few shots and all was well shooting at just over 500fps, then when as I was bolting it again the bolt handle suddenly came off in my hand which left we with a surprised look and a fat lip on my face. Basically the bolt/bar that is attached to the back of the cylinder and goes through the bolt just snapped clean in two. You can tell that it is cast as the brake is very grainy. Are the aftermarket cylinders machined? Link to post Share on other sites
bitchtits Posted September 27, 2008 Report Share Posted September 27, 2008 its quite a common thing, guy at my site broke 3 within 8 months running a 500fps sv, all of them were aftermarket versions aswell. the after market ones are cast aswell sadly. Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 I only ran my APS2 MK2 at 500fps for a while and decided that durability was certainly going to be an issue. Another guy snapped his sv bolt handle soon after that (he ran at 500fps). I ran it on a PSS2 110 spring for another 5 years with no issues at all. I think you get less stress by holding the cylinder, rather than just the bolt handle, when cocking. Try to get a straight pull when cycling the action. Hope you get it fixed soon. Good Hunting its quite a common thing, guy at my site broke 3 within 8 months running a 500fps sv, all of them were aftermarket versions aswell. the after market ones are cast aswell sadly. Link to post Share on other sites
drummguy731 Posted October 6, 2008 Report Share Posted October 6, 2008 Quick question to ya guys. I'm absolutely stumped on my type 96's PDI hop chamber. The BB gets stuck where the hop chamber ends and the hop rubber meets. It takes a good amount of force to get it out. How would you guys go about even messing with it? I'm considering just replacing the rubber and seeing what happens after that, but if that ends up being a dead end, any suggestions? Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
maxdesp Posted October 11, 2008 Report Share Posted October 11, 2008 Excuse me, What should I do to strenghten the "cheap" trigger box of the Well L96 ? Link to post Share on other sites
cs pretzel Posted October 14, 2008 Report Share Posted October 14, 2008 i heard the early ones were 6.08, and the mkII were 6.04, but my barrel seemed like 6.08... what im trying to say, in my gibberish, is they are not a tight bore. as for the AEG style, they arent. you need to get a PDI hop chamber to fit an AEG barrel. but dont get one. i did, and its a complete pig to set up. A NIGHTMARE!!! ive already had to re-tap the thread for the mag release in mine too, through no fault of my own. if you stick a maruzen hop in (should fit, its a maruzen clone, but not 100% sure if it will go... anyone?), you can get these running very nicely with a decent tightbore from what i hear. hope this helps, shmook shmook, After seeing your post I thought you might be able to shed a little more light on the where abouts of said Hop and Tightbore. I have searched but have not had any luck finding what I am looking for. Any info would be greatly appreciated. cs pretzel Link to post Share on other sites
shmook Posted October 16, 2008 Report Share Posted October 16, 2008 shmook, After seeing your post I thought you might be able to shed a little more light on the where abouts of said Hop and Tightbore. I have searched but have not had any luck finding what I am looking for. Any info would be greatly appreciated. cs pretzel hi. i dont have much info on the hop used, apart from that it is a standard maruzen hop, modified with a cut down O ring, to apply more hop. i believe maruzen hop units are quite rare on their own, so good luck! the barrel used is a firefly 6.03 inner - im guessing standard length, but not sure. sorry i couldnt be more help, shmook Link to post Share on other sites
cs pretzel Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 hi. i dont have much info on the hop used, apart from that it is a standard maruzen hop, modified with a cut down O ring, to apply more hop. i believe maruzen hop units are quite rare on their own, so good luck! the barrel used is a firefly 6.03 inner - im guessing standard length, but not sure. sorry i couldnt be more help, shmook How does the o-ring mod work? Link to post Share on other sites
shmook Posted October 26, 2008 Report Share Posted October 26, 2008 How does the o-ring mod work? im not sure, ive not seen any pics or diagrams on it. all i know is that it involves trimming a flat section in the ring, and then applying it over the hop rubber to overhop the bb. it was all verbal, but if the chap who did it reads this, he may pop up and explain better! on a new note, im in the market for bits for my own L96, and am thinking about laylax/first factory parts - teflon clyinder etc. anyone got any hints/tips/advice on this? what i really need to know is, what cocking handle will fit onto this (teflon cyl)? i can only find guarder ones, which are 2 types, for their thick (new type), and thin-walled (old type) cylinders, and will either of these handles fit? or do i have to use the stock one that came with mine (warrior). i would rather use a better one if possible, as i dont trust the pot metal one on mine to last for ever. if not, i will go with the guarder stainless steel cylinder (new type) + head, and guarder piston/head. any problems with this setup that anyone knows of? next question, does anyone know where i can get a firefly hard hop rubber? all the ones i have found - not many - are out of stock. thanks, shmook Link to post Share on other sites
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