The Complete APS 2/96 Thread

[drummguy731]

Look guys, I really need your help on this one. Today, I got my rifle out to start tuning it. The back screw that goes into the back of the cylinder kept shaking itself loose, so I locktite'd it. Before that, I disassembled the cylinder and wrapped teflon tape around the threads of the cylinder head, thinking it would make the seal better. Now, every time I try and shoot a BB with the magazine in, no shot occurs and I hear an air leak with the spring going down the guide slowly. Then, once I take the magazine out, the BB shoots like normal. What did I screw up in there? I lubed the inner cylinder wall with silicon spray and that's about. Along with this, I don't think the sear on the lightweight trigger is catching enough, because every once in a while the piston will catch and then the whole cylinder will fly forwards once I relieve the tension I put on it from pulling it back. What the hell can I do? I'm really about to throw this damn gun in the woods. Help!

[Stealthbomber]

That's odd, I've never heard a "muzzle crack" from an airsoft gun before. Even if such a thing does exist, it would be taken care of by stuffing material in the outer barrel.

All airsoft guns have some muzzle crack. What's more, it's the sound most likely to attract attention.

Minimising mechanical noise on an AEG isn't as important as cushioning the piston head and eliminating muzzle crack.

 

If this wasn't the case then the silencer on my MP5SD2 wouldn't make any difference, would it?

The fact it DOES make a difference would seem to indicate some muzzle crack is present.

 

Personally, I don't like the idea of minimising the report from an airsoft gun. It's about the most realistic noise most of them make.

[drummguy731]

I actually realized that there has to be some because the air traveling from the cylinder head down the inner barrel and out would be creating some muzzle "crack", although I forgot to edit my post. Now, Stealth, I know we've had our differences, but is there some way you can possibly help me with my problem with my gun? You are a pretty knowledgeable person on BA's, could you please help?

[Sniperwoosh]

Look guys, I really need your help on this one. Today, I got my rifle out to start tuning it. The back screw that goes into the back of the cylinder kept shaking itself loose, so I locktite'd it. Before that, I disassembled the cylinder and wrapped teflon tape around the threads of the cylinder head, thinking it would make the seal better. Now, every time I try and shoot a BB with the magazine in, no shot occurs and I hear an air leak with the spring going down the guide slowly. Then, once I take the magazine out, the BB shoots like normal. What did I screw up in there? I lubed the inner cylinder wall with silicon spray and that's about. Along with this, I don't think the sear on the lightweight trigger is catching enough, because every once in a while the piston will catch and then the whole cylinder will fly forwards once I relieve the tension I put on it from pulling it back. What the hell can I do? I'm really about to throw this damn gun in the woods. Help!

Sounds to me that you have too good compression. That can actually occur.

[drummguy731]

How exactly can I fix that?

[matthaios]

I just purchased an l96 clone and I'm waiting for it to come in. The problem that I have is that all the local fields around me have a 400fps limit with .20 bbs. I'm curious if anyone has any experience with downgrading any of the l96 clones for similar reasons and how I should go about doing this. I've read that the spring is still similar original l96 and the velocity difference comes from a larger cylinder and other internal parts. I don't know too much about upgrading/downgrading so any help would be appreciated.

[drummguy731]

Okay, just a suggestion. If I were to buy a weaker spring, thus reducing the speed at which the pistion travels, would it allow more time for the air to escape the nozzle, thus reducing the compression and possibly fixing the problem? Or do I essentially have to buy a whol new cyilnder set?

[bitchtits]

the clone l96s are near EXACTLY the same as the maruzen ,theres very little difference between them, they are identical, bar tolerences between parts.

the main difference i saw was with the barrel and hop rubbers(the barrel being cut slightly differently and the hop rubber, being slightly shorter) and the screw pints that attach to the stock,these are slightly out so recievers/stocks could be swaped wihout some filing.

you might want to wait as not all the clone rifles fire over 400fps, if i does you could clip the spring.

if you dont want to do that then you will need to buy a new spring ,springuide and piston,as the stanard one in the rifle is 7mm and aps springs are 9mm.

the cylinder volume is EXACTLY the same as the maruzen,its the spring that they put in them that makes them more powerfull.

ive had the maruzen since they were released in hk around 3-4 years ago(was pre ordered) and have had a warrior l96,all parts are the same and can be swaped bar the stocks/recievers as the screw parts are slightly out.

[Sniperwoosh]

Okay, just a suggestion. If I were to buy a weaker spring, thus reducing the speed at which the pistion travels, would it allow more time for the air to escape the nozzle, thus reducing the compression and possibly fixing the problem? Or do I essentially have to buy a whol new cyilnder set?

 

Go to the hardware store and find o-rings that are the same size as yours... and don't forget to take yours to compare. That is, if that is the problem.

[drummguy731]

I actually narrowed the problem down to the hop chamber. When the BB gets to the hop chamber, it gets stuck in there so well that it takes two blasts of air from the chamber to get it out and moving. The odd thing is, there is nothing visually wrong with the hop up assembly, any clue as to what might be wrong?

[shmook]

I actually narrowed the problem down to the hop chamber. When the BB gets to the hop chamber, it gets stuck in there so well that it takes two blasts of air from the chamber to get it out and moving. The odd thing is, there is nothing visually wrong with the hop up assembly, any clue as to what might be wrong?

 

 

youre not using 8mm bb's are you

 

serious mode now... do you have a custom hop bucking? thats all i can think of, if you've made one, and its too large maybe?

 

hmm...

[drummguy731]

I actually have the Prometheus hard hop bucking to accompany the Prometheus barrel I've got in the gun. What I'm thinking I did is I got oil in the hop chamber and I guess for whatever reason that stops the BB. I'm thinking of washing the hop chamber out with water, drying it all thoroughly, and going from there, should I know anything before doing this? I do have this gun up for sale though, not because its broken, but because I want to experiment with a GR-25. Then I'll have an AEG "sniper" and a bolt sniper with the AW338.

[trustno1]

Right then chaps, I need some advice, brought a 2nd hand Warrior 1 l96 the mods that was already done on it were a tightbore barrel, barrel spacers and a 170% spring. Problem is it still shoots like a pig, loads of flyers its not accurate keeps flying to the left and no matter how much I adjust the hop (little allen key near mag release) it either drops downwards or it'll go about 60ft then go upwards.

 

Was using 0.36g BB's

 

I need some upgrade ideas to get it shooting 500fps and more accurate,so what bits would I need to get?

 

Cheers

[bitchtits]

the hop units arent the best in the l96 but it shouldnt be shooting that badly, the warrior hop bucking is also a slight different size to the maruzen one so might not fit the barrel properly.

you could try puting a bucking between the hop arm and the rubber this will mean that you need to apply less hop for it to lift the bbs.

also make sure the hop rubber is seated perfectly staright, they have a habit of turning when you srew the hop onto the barrel(one of the most anoying things with the design)

also with a 170 spring do you mean 170%(pdi) or a laylax 170 sp.

if its a 170sp you should be getting over 500 or there something wrong, mine hit over 550 with a 170sp in it.

 

[shmook]

I actually have the Prometheus hard hop bucking to accompany the Prometheus barrel I've got in the gun. What I'm thinking I did is I got oil in the hop chamber and I guess for whatever reason that stops the BB. I'm thinking of washing the hop chamber out with water, drying it all thoroughly, and going from there, should I know anything before doing this? I do have this gun up for sale though, not because its broken, but because I want to experiment with a GR-25. Then I'll have an AEG "sniper" and a bolt sniper with the AW338.

 

 

oil shouldnt stop the bb. it would cause accuracy problems maybe, but would actually assist the bb ie lubricate it, thus lessening the chance of a jam (in my logic )

 

is your hard hop bucking being applied to a hop rubber that is too soft maybe, causing it to press down into the chamber too far, and causing a blockage?

 

i only mention this again as the cause, as i had this problem in my warrior...

 

if you do wash it, try a bit of fairy liquid, to help get rid of the oil

 

hope this helps,

 

shmook

[trustno1]

With the following mods (brought it 2nd hand)

 

Tight-bore barrel

Barrel spacers

170SP Spring (laylax for VSR-10)

 

using excel perfect 0.20g BB's

 

Tested on my new madbull chrono, shots came out at:

 

556 fps

530 fps

570 fps

580 fps

551 fps

 

Now this is way to hot, want to get it in the late 400's - 500fps

 

Was thinking off cutting the 170SP spring but how much would I have to cut off, its it any easy job to remove the spring and do?

 

Also do have the old standard spring? Reckon that would fire around 400ish fps.

 

Any other ways of getting the fps down?

 

Ta

[AnotherJesus]

I think your primary concern should be the very random nature of the power in this gun. With an sp170 you could well expect to be achieving 600fps. You're not, so i'm guessing you need to regrease it, clean out all the airseal parts too. Air is escaping somewhere. I'm no expert with these guns, but you may find once you've fixed the airseal problem the stock spring will give you a consistent 500fps.

 

This should have been posted in the APS-2 thread, I'm sure it'll be merged soon. Please use the stickies in the future, thats what they are there for.

[trustno1]

Cheers mate, think i'll put the orignal spring and give it a clean and regrease!

 

Wasn't to sure if I had to post it in the APS-2 thread. So mods sorry in advance :S

 

Its it an easy job to change springs over or is it a bit more to it than that?

[docs90]

Ok after my last hop unit in my l96 died (standerd unit) ,i decided to source a replacement

 

No the l96 was doing 515 with a .2 and used and loved .43s out to 70ish metres as verified with a range finder ,the reason the hop died was down to over hopage to achieve diestance with this weight of bbs ,the hop arm snapped to be fair

 

So a replacement unit was found and installed with the same internals (full laylax with 150 spring) on installing i managed to loose the little spring ,so i bodged another to fit under the arm , good i thought , so off i went to play , the hop could not cope with anything over a .29 to around 70 metres again and even then it only cronoed at 440 fps (now everything was airtight ptfe win) no i thought i would try and bodge the hop

 

Ontop of the hop rubber i have bodged a small rubber ring on the hop bucking ,then the hop arm comes on top to provide more hop ,all fitted and back together ,hop was tested with a .36 ,that almost went verticale from leaving the barrel , so i wound the hop off and tried ,43s ,straight as a die 72 metres ,bargin l96 restored to former glory ,until i cronoed it yesterday at sya with a .2 just to be sure i wasnt breaking site limits ..

 

408 fps with a .2

 

Do you think the fps is so effected by the amount of hop that my bodging has done to drop it almost 100 fps ?

Seems strange that my vsr with a 150 spring des 497 fps and will do 70 ish metres when my l96 only does 408 fps but can provide the same sort of range ?

 

I have just chucked a 170 in the l96 and the fps was 464 fps with a .2 but the range was verified again with a range finder to 97,3 metres with a .43

 

Am i missing something here

 

Any advice please guys

[AnotherJesus]

The .2 chrono results were with the same hop as you're applying to the .43s yes? This would be a likely cause of the dropped FPS. I tested a VFC ak with .2s a couple of weeks back:

No hop - 330fps

Perfect hop - 327fps

Full hop - 270fps.

 

Get a chrono result with the .43s, and do a conversion. You'll probably find your power isn't so poor as you think.

[docs90]

Yes the crono tests were done with the same hop , we dont crono with .43s and do the maths we test with ,2s

 

I carnt see that a fully applied hop unit would drop the fps by around 100 fps ,not to the point that yesterday i shot a guy 68 metres away with a point 43 and we heard the thud as it hit home .i know hop is key but still confusing

[AnotherJesus]

Think about the length of the AK barrel managing to take off 50+FPS. Then think of the extra lenght of the l96 barrel. Quite possibly causing the FPS drop if you ask me. It's well worth getting the reading with a .43. Or just take advantage of the chrono results and drop in a spring that pushes 500fps with a .2 (seriously not recomended!)

[docs90]

Or just take advantage of the chrono results and drop in a spring that pushes 500fps with a .2 (seriously not recomended!)

 

 

No if i did that i wouldnt be able to cock the bugger i struggled with a 170

 

Ive just played with the hop and shaved the bodge i did now i get less hop than before but better#(487)with a .2 fps and still the same range as before with a .43 , seems the over hopping bodge i did needed a little fine tunning

 

Thanks for the help

[The Bushman]

Reminds me of my old APS2 MKII SPORTER only chronographed 320fps (0.20g) with a 110SP spring in it. However it was modified to give far more HOP effect and I always presumed it was low, simply down to the amount of spin involved.

 

It still managed a few 70m hits with Maruzen Accuracy 0.30g

 

Good Hunting

 

 

[TacMasteR]

hey all. so i bought a warrior one type 96 probably about a year ago. in that time ive filled the stock with foam glued and bondo'd all the seams and painted it olive drab (which will change soon).

 

the reason for my post is that i have a few questions about the internals of the gun.

 

1. whats the stock barrel diameter? comparing it to a stock JG g36c barrel it looks like a tighter bore.

 

2.how well does the Teflon tape mod work?

 

3. I was thinking of adding dense cotton padding to the cylinder head. granted i cut it all to appropriate size do you thing it will help in dampening the noise.

 

all in all i love my warrior one and i plan to upgrade all the internals. o and what do you guys have to say about the pdi vacuum set?