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SIG Picture Thread

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Cheers guys, after your brief description , it's defo an early prime frame, two holes in the grip frame , NSW markings etc.. Whoever built this originally has made a bit of a mess inside with getting the slide to mesh properly with the lower, looks like they've just used a coarse file, it's full of tool marks , so I'm going to strip this right down, and attempt to bring it back to some sort of glory, they've also filed the trigger guard rather than the light mount :( , which is a shame , I'll see what I can do to get it all to fit right.

 

This thing really needs a deep clean, I'm thinking strip it down and put it through the dishwasher, I'm assuming it'd have no adverse effects to the finish on the lower and slide?

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Aluminium's a bit of a tricky one. Theoretically it should be fine, but in practice I wouldn't in case the fitting process has damaged the sealant layer of the finish. If you want to clean it, just wash it up like you would a dirty pan. Soak it in warm water and Fairy liquid, and then wash it up using a sponge (not the scrubbing type) and you should be golden. Also - take before and after pictures!

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Don't dishwash it.

 

I have a cup with no glaze left on it from dishwashing.

 

And more relevant, an aluminium piece from my espresso machine got put through the dishwasher and its stripped the finish off that too.

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Points taken lads, scrub by hand it is :) , I'll take some progress pics along the way, not fully stripped a sig before , I've worked on 1911's, 2011's and glocks, any thing that I should be wary of?

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It's not overly complex, but I think it may have more moving parts than a 1911. The parts that MIGHT shoot out at you when taking it apart:

 

I've seen the trigger bar spring pop out as soon as you remove the right grip - it usually stays in place, but if it's not set right, it might pop out so be careful when removing the right grip.

 

The cylinder return plunger and spring might pop out as soon as you lift the blowback unit out of the slide.

 

The frame holds the knocker lock spring in place so it might come loose as soon as the entire rear chassis is lifted. Similarly, the frame holds the slide stop spring in place so it can come loose as soon as the front chassis is lifted.

 

None of these springs are under a lot of compression, so I have never had anything fly out at me. It just pops loose and should sit in place. You shouldn't have any problems taking it apart and there are step-by-step guides not only on this, but a variety of others. If it helps, I can make a video of one of my 226R's taken completely apart and back together if it's difficult to tell just from photos.

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Thanks for that, ill shout if i get stuck, i actually have a couple of stock 226's so i may transplant new parts into this, as the current internals are so gritted up, literally looks like its been used to shovel/make sand castles with.

 

Regards,

jim.

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Ha that's Aaron all over, my mag came back with sand in the gas reservoir :huh:

 

I hold my hands up to the butchering that was done to that kit. But it just wouldnt cycle correctly and i got fed up with the softly softly approach so i just dremelled it. He said he was never going to sell it and he didnt mind what i did to it as long as it worked and looked good from the out side. We talked about either trimming the mount or the lower and decided that the mount would have a better resale value and a wider market, so trimmed the lower (not that he was going to ever sell it). I might have the other two screws for the sf mount, but they dont reach the plate to tighten.

 

I feel a bit guilty that ive ruined that kit for you with out the p114 bro :(

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Ha ha, we've all done it mate, I remember my first 1911 build, well all is not lost, I Completely stripped it, cleaned it, transferred some new parts into it,and have started filing the sf mount and it's now running like a train :) , it absolutely kicks !

 

If you have those screws/bolts I'd really appreciate it, I'd happily pay the postage too, drop me a line if you find them :)

 

edit, pictures up as soon as the light mount is sorted ,and of my other 226 which should be here any day now :),that ones a bit special too.

Edited by Jimmypie

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some quick indoor pics, apologies but its chucking it down outside, havent finished the light yet and i hope to aquire a couple more bolts :)

 

 

p1000964e.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

p1000965t.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

My new (new to me ;) ) 226E2 turned up as well, guarder new style frame, slide and mags ,quick question, should there be a couple of "plugs" to cover the trigger bar holes?

 

p1000966g.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

p1000967i.jpg

 

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and the whole sig family, apart from the one thats in bits as a donor to the Prime kit,

 

p1000968t.jpg

 

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

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There is alway the DIY option. The hole over the trigger, contols side should be a slotted screw. So just cut the right diameter screw down and glue in place. And then glue a similar thing on the other side. I considered drilling out the blank on my Prime kit and setting in a screw but never got round to it.

Edited by hitmanNo2

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Hey folks. Just ordered a TM SIG P226 which I'm trying to trick out to look as much like my real-steel P220 Combat as possible. Does anyone happen to know if real-steel grips will fit on the frame, or if not, where I can pick up some replica ones?

 

Similar to this color would be awesome:

 

]"]http://www.sigsauer.com/CatalogProductDetails/p220-combat.aspx

Edited by SOUTHPAWMIKE

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Firstly - that is a lovely-looking gun. Secondly - fundamentally, yes, real-steel SIG Sauer P226 grips will fit TM's replica. However, both the grips and the TM will require some modification:

  1. The TM P226 bulks up its weight with a pot-metal mainspring housing which is much larger than the real thing. To fit real-steel grips, simple replace this mainspring housing with the real SIG Sauer part. It is a drop-in fit, and requires very, very slight modification (removal of a small bar) with a knife; takes about 20 seconds.
  2. The TM P226, having a plastic frame, secures its grip screws inside brass bushings press-fit into the ABS frame. Thus, the cylindrical protrusions which house the bushings are wider than those on the real frame, which are just threaded straight into the aluminium. The grips need to have the sockets for these protrusions widened; an end-mill of the correct diameter mounted in a drill press would do the trick. Any machine shop should be able to do the work in less than half an hour.

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The real grips from the P220 Combat wont fit a P226 as one is a double stacker, the other a single. However as for finding browned or san coloured grips for a SIG P226 don't know where you would look for that.

 

As for the frame, get some hard wearing durable coating spray, strip down the slide and give it a few nice even coats on a clear day outside and you should have the colour you need.

 

'FireKnife'

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The real grips from the P220 Combat wont fit a P226 as one is a double stacker, the other a single

 

While nothing I said was technically wrong, even I don't listen to me after that :no:

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I was more stating fact than saying you were wrong :P

 

However the point was geared at the person asking about making his P226 like a P220 ;)

 

However wish TM did a P220, i prefer the .45 single stacker than the fat P226 grip.

 

'FireKnife'

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