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Painted Weapons Picture Thread


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Krylon is fairly special. The colors work very well for weapon painting applications, they dry extremely quickly, and are extremely flat, no sheen to speak off. Plus they weather very nicely, replicating a used real steel look. I'd say they are worth it but then again they as easy as a trip to the local hardware store for me to get. Duracoat is suposedly good if you want a more perminant finish. They have all the military colors as well.

 

Cheers!

 

- CapaciousZepher

Edited by CapaciousZepher
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First:

0422061309.jpg

 

Second:

0512061557.jpg

 

Then sold :-p. No need for a UTG after getting my m15. Traded it for a TM g18c AEP + $40. But I liked both paint jobs, they were both unique. I got a lot of interest with the 2nd paintjob, the grass pattern. I painted it camo first, then laid out stencils ad painted black over. I tried a clear coat to protect the handgrip, but it made it awefully shiney.

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Just get Krylon Gold paint, with the shiny cap. And I used one of those pistol grip spray handles, it helped a lot. To keep it from getting globby in the cracks, I did 3-4 layers, and very lightly. It didn't come out as shiny as I would have liked, but its still pretty sweet.

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yea, its just taking it slow and carefull. if you get it wrong, let it dry and start over....how are you doing it. ? with an air brush or krylon. ?

 

 

krylon....

 

yeah i was afraid of the do it and start over if wrong answer :( lol but oh well i guess i'l have to do that... anyway to get that effect using card as a kind of stencil?

 

thanks

 

Jas

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no you don't need a stencil. and starting over isn't a bad thing. my m24 on the last page took me hours to get it to that, starting over in areas etc. but at the end of it you'll be happy with your work. ( and kylon only takes 5 mins to dry any way i think)

 

just remember to keep the nossle around 6" from the gun, and start off around 10cm away from the gun, start spraying and go straight past the gun to apox 10cm to the opposite side. (its kinda hard to explain) keep the coats thin to prevent the running. don't try to get it done in one hit, coz if you do you'll get a sh!t finish. space it out. 1 very thin coat ( so you can barly see the paint on the item) then wait 2 minutes and do it again.

 

if you keep the paint thin you don't have to worry about starting over, as there is no rubbibg down etc. so just practice even spray and speed, in lines. (duno if that makes sence to you. ? lol. you really need to be shown rather that told.)

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My paint job was wearing off too much, so I did an impromptu paintjob with some extra netting I had laying around. The paintjob isn't as clean as I would have liked it to be, but it works what I need it for. Nothing flashy, but I was going for a subtle look.

My homemade can works like a charm.

Currently, this is in the DMR setup.

dmrfrontangleii0.jpg

 

dmrsideanglebq0.jpg

 

dmrreceiverclosejx1.jpg

 

suppclosepu0.jpg

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My paint job was wearing off too much, so I did an impromptu paintjob with some extra netting I had laying around.  The paintjob isn't as clean as I would have liked it to be, but it works what I need it for.  Nothing flashy, but I was going for a subtle look.

My homemade can works like a charm. 

Currently, this is in the DMR setup.

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5526/dmrfrontangleii0.jpg

 

http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5900/dmrsideanglebq0.jpg

 

http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/4933/dmrr...verclosejx1.jpg

 

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/3475/suppclosepu0.jpg

 

 

In actuality, "sharp and clean" paintjobs are some of the worst, practicality wise. They look great if they are clean, but they won't do quite as well usually, at least I wouldn't think so.

 

In other words, good paintjob! I bet it will work great!

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