Number5 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 hello all, Just recieved my 'Version 3' WE M4 from TQM in the Uk. I've been reading the thread for a while now and noticed a few pages bakc someone asking about the 'Ver3's' from TQM and them not having any trades on them.... Now im not fussy about trades but im concerned about having V1 or V2 internals... ive taken a few picks of the bolt and nozzles etc for you guys to view, they do look different from the other nozzles ive seen, but ive litteraly had this Rif in my hands for 25 minutes so far so i havnt had a chance to properly explore it and i dont have any frame of reference other than pics, and if it isnt the product i paid for then i dont wanna risk damaging it either! (as it may get sent back) for you viewing pleasure Cheers J P.S- this may sound like a dense question, but...how do you adjust the hopup? Can it be adjusted witout taking the barrel and the whole unit out? I can see what looks like a Turn wheel, in the 'Usual' place, but cant turn it. I havnt place any real force on it but thats because, again, It may get sent back and dont want to damage it any.(although Ive had a quick play with it and...Damn... AWSOME Piece of kit!!!!!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alston251 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Normally it's really tight out of the box. It is recommended to take it apart and put it back together. Then it should be smoother. Be careful not to loose the ball bearing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cocofr69 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) Hello all According to the idea of Renegadecow, here is the shape of a improved part #59: I'm going to see if i can make it laser cut and how much it will cost for a stainless steel part. Edited April 21, 2009 by cocofr69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) @ Number5 Yours is the latest gas version with steel internals and stabilizer block. I saw Marks latest rifles at the weekend and was comparing them to my version one. I've been making mods to mine to bring it up to speed. Enjoy!! ps. Trades are an option. His latest delivery are plain. Edited April 21, 2009 by PaulB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Number5, thanks for posting the pics. Seems like you have the latest nozzle. Did you order the C02 version or gas? I'm kinda curious as to whether you got the newer brass housing or not... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) theProdigy, alot of the folks here arn't "whining". If they recieve a defective product, they have a right to voice their opinions. Without it, alot of the improvements probably wouldn't have happened and not as fast. If you bought a car and it was missing to motor, wouldn't you be upset? Am I happy with the product? Yes. Do I feel as though there is room for improvement? Absolutely. But getting parts that don't work or don't fit is inexusable. Its a different matter if you're buying from a third party, but when you buy a product, you expect all the part to be there and for all the parts to work. Edited April 21, 2009 by redline Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hello all According to the idea of Renegadecow, here is the shape of a improved part #59: I'm going to see if i can make it laser cut and how much it will cost for a stainless steel part. Thats the dogs danglers.....you took Renegadecows excellent design a step further. WE-tech should be paying for this. BLOWS AWAY their shallow minded design. OTTO Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 (edited) Hey I just found a fix wich seems to works pretty well Take a metal sheet(I used one from a paint brush set, the thing to clean the roll) cut in it a 16 x 12mm part and use the rear of the part wich is under the cover to trace where to drill the hole. Next, drill the hole(I drilled a 4mm hole) and put the new part in the place of the legs of part 59, but keep the rest(the cover as...cover) Edited April 21, 2009 by Eliminator Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Redline, I believe i did get the latest brass housing, i'll post more pics when i get back to my camera! I was really happy with the platform at first, however after two mags, its stopped working! It seems 'cocking' the rif doesnt push the hammer back far enough so when the trigger is pressed only a tiny amount of gas is realeased and a pop heard, not an actual shot. If i cock it, then open it up and push the hammer back further, it fires again, and continues to fire after each shot. It doesnt function proper when I cock it the first time! Any ideas? So far i really like the rif, but im not 100% convinced of it, and wont be unitl it gets a proper field test. Unfortunatly i only bought it with one mag as im waiting on the Co2 mags to compare and go from there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hondatech Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hi folks! Excellent work in this thread, I'm enjoying the amount of innovation you guys are showing on coming up with fixes! I'm suffering from the same problem as Number5. Pulling the charging handle cocks the hammer, but does not move the internals far enough to set the firing pin. If I mag up and pull the trigger, all I get is the "click" of the hammer falling. If I reach up into the magwell when the hammer is cocked, I can apply a tiny amount of pressure to the pin and cause it to click into place. After that, I can mag up, and fire it normally. It seems that under blowback, the bolt carrier gets moved enough to reset the firing pin. Ideas? Redline, I believe i did get the latest brass housing, i'll post more pics when i get back to my camera! I was really happy with the platform at first, however after two mags, its stopped working! It seems 'cocking' the rif doesnt push the hammer back far enough so when the trigger is pressed only a tiny amount of gas is realeased and a pop heard, not an actual shot. If i cock it, then open it up and push the hammer back further, it fires again, and continues to fire after each shot. It doesnt function proper when I cock it the first time! Any ideas? So far i really like the rif, but im not 100% convinced of it, and wont be unitl it gets a proper field test. Unfortunatly i only bought it with one mag as im waiting on the Co2 mags to compare and go from there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wraithxt1 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hi folks! Excellent work in this thread, I'm enjoying the amount of innovation you guys are showing on coming up with fixes! I'm suffering from the same problem as Number5. Pulling the charging handle cocks the hammer, but does not move the internals far enough to set the firing pin. If I mag up and pull the trigger, all I get is the "click" of the hammer falling. If I reach up into the magwell when the hammer is cocked, I can apply a tiny amount of pressure to the pin and cause it to click into place. After that, I can mag up, and fire it normally. It seems that under blowback, the bolt carrier gets moved enough to reset the firing pin. Ideas? The same thing happens to me all the damn time. As long as I dont let the hammer decock the entire day its fine. Otherwise, racking it HARD sometimes works too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Hondatech, Number5...when you open it up, check the stabilizer piece..its that huge, white, squarish, plastice piece in the bolt carrier. It sometimes travels forward, preventing that weird traingle shaped thingy (the one with the bearing..attached to the trigger assembly) from moving all the way back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cocofr69 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Thats the dogs danglers.....you took Renegadecows excellent design a step further. WE-tech should be paying for this. BLOWS AWAY their shallow minded design. OTTO Thanks Otto Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSOJGNILRAD Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 you guys check part #59 if it is not tightened down all the way it will not rack with the charging handle. I dealt with this on both of my rifles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Small edit about my part#59 fix: it works in semi mode only... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PaulB Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...411&st=1180 post 1185 This shows the fix for the 'not fully cocking prob' i followed this and its been very successful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Eliminator Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 The problem is that's a temporary fix for the broken part#59. Mine lost both legs. Despite not being able to shoot in automatic mode, the Semi works pretty well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Autotechnica Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 The problem is that's a temporary fix for the broken part#59. Mine lost both legs. Despite not being able to shoot in automatic mode, the Semi works pretty well. With both the legs broken in mine, I can't fire in either modes. I just hear a click and then a small pop. Occasionally (maybe 10% of the time), it will work again in full auto and I can empty a mag, but that's very rare. Just waiting for Horizon to send me some replacement part #59's, I'll def do the file/drilling mods. Bry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 To everyone with a broken part #59: I've been pouring my brains out on how such a simple part would break ever since Rottenotto's had broken some time ago. Mine broke just last Sunday (although surprisingly, it didn't affect performance not one bit) and since I'm not one to pay $11 shipping for a $1.50 part, I gave it some more brain juice. I've come to the conclusion that the part is flawed in its design. Because the prongs are split all the way to the top and cut at sharp, right angles at the corners, the force exerted by the hammer becomes rotational which is why they start splitting from the inside corner like a revolving door as illustrated below. Top view cross section In theory, the solution is simple: keep the top part of the split closed as such (at right): The point is that the extra material will support the prongs and keep them from folding in plus the whole length of the folded corner would act like an angle bar where stress would be evenly distributed; no corners to start cracking. I've already purchased some 1mm thick stainless steel sheet to prototype the design and should be able to test it out by the weekend. Point well taken!! Thank you my friend! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Some excelent help guys! The rif actually started to Correct itself and work, but ive tightend bits up for now and will look at the modifications in the morning! Cheers again! J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) I hadn't thought about having the outer corners radiused, no doubt Cocofr69's design would be even stronger. Anyhow, I'm done with the prototype (without radius corners yet). I used 1mm thick 304 grade stainless steel and now my shoulders are complaining from lack of decent machining tools. Works ok though I've only shot 3 mags through it since this morning. Will report back on the weekend. Edited April 22, 2009 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HSOJGNILRAD Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 I hadn't thought about having the outer corners radiused, no doubt Cocofr69's design would be even stronger. Anyhow, I'm done with the prototype (without radius corners yet). I used 1mm thick 304 grade stainless steel and now my shoulders are complaining from lack of decent machining tools. Good deal I will take 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vila Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 I know its in this thread somewhere, but I couldn't find it, but here's my problem. I recently have had some firing issues with my WE M4. It started with the mags purging gas when on full auto, then it did it a few times on semi. Now it won't fire at all. I've looked over most of the parts and have only found an issue with the o-ring on the nozzle. (part #45 or #46, I'm not sure which) Any idea's on what I might be over looking? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lupus78 Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 (edited) I've encountered the firing pin-issue more than once. Usually it doesn't bother, since before I use the gun I just rack the charging handle once without the magazine and feel with finger from magazine well if the firing pin is inside. If not, it just pops inside with a gentle push. After that it's ready to rock. Also I've noticed that if you lock the bolt back and release it with bolt stop mechanism, it usually slams with enough force to set the pin back by itself. Tightening the screws might help, but not always. I'm also waiting for reinforced #59. Luckily I've got one spare if/when the current one breaks down. WETTI: Any plans to produce aftermarket steel outer barrels? I'd love to have one! I wouldn't mind some extra sturdiness and weight towards the barrel. Somehow the current aluminum outer barrel (with steel carbine extension) just seems a bit cheap. Edited April 22, 2009 by Lupus78 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wolfsbane Posted April 22, 2009 Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 DIAMOND GEEZERS! all the input for part 59 is fantastic!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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