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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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Lupus78, a question?

 

have you used regular or Biodegradable BBs in yours? As you certainly know, it's bio-only on most fields here, and I'd like to know if they will survive usage in this.

 

Second... Think I could see your rifle when it gets more springtime-ish?

 

Oh, what I'd give for AB to have Diemaco SFW version for sale...

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In semi, after a round is fired my trigger clicks on the way back to the ready to fire position. Apparently the clicking is from the hammer moving up 1/8-1/4 inch. Is this normal? I don't recall it happening before, but I'm not sure.

 

I dont have my WE M4 yet, but the REAL M16A2 clicks after firing when returning the trigger to its normal position.

 

When I'm shooting I use this click as a signal of where to hold light pressure on the trigger for my next shot.

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I've used only biodegradable bb's. And not a single problem with them, yet.

 

Actually I've never heard anyone else than Pollux complaining about WE M4 smashing their bb's. Or they haven't just told us about it. Personally the G&G 0.28g bb's have been just perfect for my gun. So far no hickups, no smashed bb's and accuracy has seemed good. Altough it's been a while since I've used the gun outside. As soon as the weather warms to at least around 5°C then I will definitely switch back to gas. And sure if you'll drop by to Korpilampi (next to Serena ski-center) some sunday then you could try it out. That's the place where we usually go.

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Lupus78, a question?

 

have you used regular or Biodegradable BBs in yours? As you certainly know, it's bio-only on most fields here, and I'd like to know if they will survive usage in this.

 

Second... Think I could see your rifle when it gets more springtime-ish?

 

Oh, what I'd give for AB to have Diemaco SFW version for sale...

 

 

Some info from James Chan at WEairsoft.com

 

 

- Custom engraving is possible for 50 or more pcs on special order. I'll need 1:1 artwork.

 

- No aftermarket parts yet available to convert this into a 16-incher, but I suppose things will change very quickly

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Lt. Fenix, can we calm down?

 

I understand where you are comming from, yes rottenotto has repeated himself on a few occassions, but he has had to since a lot of ppl are asking the same thing because they don't wanna look back one page. It is repeating info, but it doesn't take away the fact that the info is still valid and helpful. And the o-ring thing needs to be dropped. Rottenotto said that the #83 ring wouldn't work because he felt it wasn't working as good as the original peice. Should he have stated first that the piece could be used? yes, but he just felt it wasn't a propper switch, and that it would be better to find a better option. Others have said it works, but what makes you think rottenotto has any reason to lie about what he has said. He has actualy tested it and told his side. It might somewhat contridict what others have said, but it happens in the world of airsoft. Either way I hope we can just move on and continue the 100 plus page disscussion on the WE m4.

 

I'm confused, #83 or #122?

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- No aftermarket parts yet available to convert this into a 16-incher, but I suppose things will change very quickly

 

I have ordered a complete SPR front set few days ago. I've made blueprint for the work to do to convert a AEG outer barrel to fit the WE and found a mechanic who can do the job.

I will keep the original inner barrel and see how it shoot, but i already have a 500mm Prometheus inner barrel in stock and i will convert it it fit the WE too later.

 

The front set i ordered is a CNC china made that seems good quality, i just hope that the delta ring thread will be the same than WE or G&P one (G&P delta ring fits perfectly on the WE).

 

I will post pictures of the gun with the front set as soon as the job will be done. If it fits well, and if the quality of the front set is good, i will be able to order 10 more front sets to convert, and sell them about 215 $ without shipping (i have to pay the airmail shipping from HK, the taxes and the conversion ).

 

It's a bit expensive, but unless i have a contact in HK that could find a local mechanic and look at the job to ensure it would be be correctly done, and then ship it around the world, i have to pay the shipping to France and the taxes. With a local contact, the price will drop to around 140-150$ i think.

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I hope it works well. It may be more economical to just do barrels (say, use Guarder or G&P barrels). Otherwise the price may have a lot of people just waiting around for WE to do it.

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If the RS charging handle is forged (steel) could you not add a blob of weld using a MIG welder to the tip, and then grind it down to size with a Dremel and a cutting disc?

Forged, yes, but not out of steel. You could TIG weld some aluminum on it, but it's really really tricky business. You need a seriously skilled welder for aluminum. I'd finish it with a file to get a nice flat surface.

 

You guys are asking for trouble with steel charging handles.

 

Real AR15's do NOT use steel charging handles as they wear out the receivers.

 

A better quality aluminum charging handle is what you want.

Hmm, then those steel charging handles must be finished poorly, because the steel bolt carrier with its polished contact surfaces doesn't seem to wear out the aluminum receiver and buffer tube it's moving in. But I do agree. The real AR-15 has an aluminum charging handle, so if only for realism the WE handle should be aluminum as well.

 

The problem is that we're comparing forged aluminum parts to die-cast ones. (Goes for the receivers as well, by the way.)

 

In semi, after a round is fired my trigger clicks on the way back to the ready to fire position. Apparently the clicking is from the hammer moving up 1/8-1/4 inch. Is this normal? I don't recall it happening before, but I'm not sure.

It's perfectly normal and realistic too. It's one of the things that my shooting mate noted and complimented when I demonstrated the WE M4 to him.

 

When you pull the trigger #57 (which also acts as a sear), the hammer #50 drops. When the bolt carrier #33 cycles and cocks the hammer, the hammer is held back by the disconnector #54. As you reset the trigger, the disconnector lets go of the hammer, but by that time the sear (trigger) is already able to catch the hammer and hold it back.

 

In full auto the disconnector is disabled from catching the hammer by the selector #72. When the bolt carrier cycles and cocks the hammer, the hammer is caught by the full-auto sear #48. As the bolt carrier returns to battery, it hits the top of the full auto sear, causing the hammer to fall again without interruption.

 

This is 100% the same principle and sequence how the firing mechanism of a real safe-semi-full AR-15 variant works as well. Just the part numbers and the look are different.

 

-Sale

Edited by Sale

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To Tom Andrews and Magsz,

 

Im not sure I follow your comments - who said we were using "steel" charging handles?

 

Milspec doesnt mean "steel".

 

Its forged aluminum.

 

I covered this fact in a post a couple pages back. (Real Steel handles are indeed aluminum - steel is a "luxury" item)

 

"WE" needs to offer a CNC piece or better yet WHY isnt Intruder Shop/Guarder all over this one. Seems like a no brainer part for them.

 

 

I know its a little late to answer. :D But if something is 'forged' it means its iron or steel. If its 'cast' it could be iron , steel or aluminum.

 

After all, we should know, we invented the language! :D

 

Never the less, we have in the UK something called 'Techno Weld' which is an almost idiot proof aluminium welding rod, which is applied using a propane torch. I'll almost guarentee there is something identical in the States. That could easily add the extra blob reguired on the end of the RS part.

 

I agree we do need a better part though.

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Hi!

I have a question about charging handles: Does a WA charging handle will fit on a WE?

If yes, it will be interesting to buy a G&P version, instead a RS version (In europa, it can be hard to find a RS charging handle)

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No, they are diferent, I have both, WE and WA, and it's no possible to use the charging handle from one on the other.

 

Hi!

I have a question about charging handles: Does a WA charging handle will fit on a WE?

If yes, it will be interesting to buy a G&P version, instead a RS version (In europa, it can be hard to find a RS charging handle)

 

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It seems a lot more fun (recoil) with the steel bolt, but I can imagine the gained performance boost especially when used in very cold weather or with duster gas. Gotta get one, so I can switch the lighter bolt when I need it. The CO2 magazine and that lighter bolt together should enable quite a nice operation in wintertime. Hopefully.

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No, they are diferent, I have both, WE and WA, and it's no possible to use the charging handle from one on the other.

 

 

Aaargh... :(

 

Can you give me more info: what are the differences?

If you can, post a photo/pic who shows the two charging handles and where are differences.

 

Thank you :)

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It seems a lot more fun (recoil) with the steel bolt, but I can imagine the gained performance boost especially when used in very cold weather or with duster gas. Gotta get one, so I can switch the lighter bolt when I need it. The CO2 magazine and that lighter bolt together should enable quite a nice operation in wintertime. Hopefully.

 

Yeah, I plan on buying one and keeping it lower fps and high rof, then use the other bolt for the higher fps.

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I hope it works well. It may be more economical to just do barrels (say, use Guarder or G&P barrels). Otherwise the price may have a lot of people just waiting around for WE to do it.

 

This is what i planned to do first, but the difference between a G&P barrel and the complete SPR front sight is only 20$, G&P (or Guarder) barrels are very expensive.

 

With a king arms, difference is less than 30$, but king arms barrels wobbles because of there 2 parts conception.

 

A Star M16 barrel would be interresting because of it's cheap price and good quality, but the WE front sight doesn't fit (41mm between pin holes instead of 38.5mm for Star or G&P), so you'll have to buy a G&P front sight and sand it a little bit to make it fit the Star's barrel (and, of course, a gaz tube, a handguard cap, and a handguard).

 

For a Star, it would be 145$ before shipping.

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Hmm, I was just looking at the bolt carrier and charging handle.

 

Instead of trying to add stuff on a real aluminum charging handle, why not weld some additional metal on the steel bolt carrier instead? That should be easy even with basic welding tools, and you can finish it with a file. Then you could use any RS charging handles – drop-in.

 

-Sale

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Hmm, I was just looking at the bolt carrier and charging handle.

 

Instead of trying to add stuff on a real aluminum charging handle, why not weld some additional metal on the steel bolt carrier instead? That should be easy even with basic welding tools, and you can finish it with a file. Then you could use any RS charging handles – drop-in.

 

-Sale

 

That'd actually be a great feature for an aftermarket bolt carrier. Not only will you upgrade your bolt carrier, you'll also essentially be add the capability for an easy, relatively cheap, charging handle upgrade.

 

I can't access the youtube video, but maybe drop a line to whoever's making that?

 

cocofr69:

 

I see your point. I have no actual experience with STAR products, but I know first hand that G&P (esp their steel ones) are fairly nice.

Edited by slu

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Hmm, I was just looking at the bolt carrier and charging handle.

 

Instead of trying to add stuff on a real aluminum charging handle, why not weld some additional metal on the steel bolt carrier instead? That should be easy even with basic welding tools, and you can finish it with a file. Then you could use any RS charging handles – drop-in.

 

-Sale

 

 

 

Sale-

Thats a good idea on future aftermarket bolts. Just machine it slightly different to better accept a real charging handle.

 

I just wanted to say that my "fix" for the charging handle has been holding up just fine but I have done something different and easier......I will post better pics over the weekend,

 

The idea of cutting a small piece/tab of steel and attaching it to the RS charging handle hook, is time consuming. It was the cleanest way I could think of to get to the correct, added 1/16th stand off.

 

But there was/is the chance the JB weld will break off...sooooooo....

 

I pinned the square down in the dead center with a roll pin. (Glue and screw - bomp proof) Then it hit me.

 

A roll pin is all I needed.

 

Some suggested welding a blob of metal then grinding and shaping it......this would be waaaaay too time cosuming and the chance of making it work is slim. You might spend hours shaping and grinding only to ruin the piece in the end.

 

Some have suggested "tapping the piece, then threading in a bolt"........this would not work for such obvious reasons.

 

The extra bit of material that the charging handle needs is ONLY 1/16th of an inch high.........it cant be any higher than 1/16th inch, period. If the added material hung any lower it would not find the spot on the bolt carrier to hook up with - and instead would be destroying the brass cylinder. (Taking apart the gun, would tell you this in 5 nanoseconds.)

 

Also....when have you ever seen a bolt with a head thats only 1/16th of an inch high??!

 

Even if you were a wizard with a bench grinder, there is no way you could cleanly get it to 1/16th.

 

And lets say you ground of too much - "Oops". Now what? How do you extract the buggered up screw? You just ground the head off!

 

Lets say everything went PERFECT and you were able to grind it down SQUARELY to 1/16th inch. But after a few days, the screw has loosened? Now what? Again no way to tighten it. (Anybody who has tried to tighten the safety on their AK can tell you gripping a tiny round 1/16th high piece of slippery metal is a laugh.)

 

I think the screw was at least the right path, but the wrong destination.

 

The tension pin (or roll pin) is ideal. This pin below is pressed all the way through the handle to the hole for the gas tube - approximately a 1/4" long pin.

 

wepinnedhandle.jpg

 

 

 

Its quick, inexpensive, and bomb proof. It addresses all the problems of trying to either weld a blob or use a screw head.

 

You press the roll pin into the handle to the desired height. The steel material is perfect match for the steel carrier. At only 1/6th inch high there is not enough leverage on the pin to deform it. It will last and last.

 

All you will really need for this mod is a drill press and a 3/32 pin.....and you can use ANY real steel handle PERFECTLY with no worries of JB weld falling apart.

 

Hope this helps some.

 

 

 

 

 

 

---------

And to Cobbcore11, a big thank you buddy. ;)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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