FatHammer Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 Again, interest on CNC Steel hopup units? I'd possibly be interested, if the price was reasonable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Vainguard Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 (edited) I dropped off a couple of Hicapa hopup units to get a rough price quote for 20. I didnt leave my 5-7 one because I was using it for a game, but I showed him what it was. As for price, I don't think that it will be anything less than $50 per unit due to a few factors like not being mass produced, small job, profit margins, labor ect ect. But don't quote me later on this for price, since I still haven't gotten a quote on my end. Taylor Edit: It would be made out of 303 CNCed Stainless Steel Edited August 22, 2010 by The Vainguard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badger Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 50 bucks is still reasonable enough for a high grade custom made cylinder though. So if its in that ballpark I'm still in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
skullfish Posted August 22, 2010 Report Share Posted August 22, 2010 Hi guys I've just become the proud owner of a TM 5-7 myself, and I've got two brief questions: Is there any particular method of loading the mags to ensure that they double stack properly, and don't mis-feed? The slide is currently not locking back on an empty mag. If I actively hold the mag release catch up then the slide lock engages, but as soon as I let go the catch drops and the slide drops forward. Is anyone familiar with this problema and is there an easy fix? Despite these issues, it's an awesome thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 I always load mine by hand from the top. You could also load it from the bottom (pull down follower all the way and load through the gap) but risk damaging the follower and possibly the lip if your thumb slips. Never heard of your slide lock malfunction in any of the threads here at Arnies or elsewhere. Take a look at the notches of the slide and lock lever for wear. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 renegadecow, is the silicone sealant you got the 270 black one? I got that, like a 5oz tube from O'Reillys for like $5. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Vainguard Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 Mine did that too, but only when there was no mag. Anyways skirmish report in SoCal 100 Degree weather. In the morning the best was shooting around 330ish FPS (Short barrel length) on green with all the upgrades. I can tell you right now, that if you plan to skirmish this in high temperatures, we're going to need a stiffer hammer spring. I had a bolt action 5-7 for the longest time today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 renegadecow, is the silicone sealant you got the 270 black one? I got that, like a 5oz tube from O'Reillys for like $5. Mine doesn't come with an ISO rating so not sure about the number. But looking at HM270, it looks like commercial grade sealant for applications like sealing sink tops and such and not necessarily pressure rated, just water and chemical resistance. I use the same silicone gasket maker to fix leaky mags but since this application doesn't really call for pressure resistance I guess it will do. Maybe use it for a couple weeks then observe with a before and after pic if there's any hint of damage. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Roger dodger , I'll do the fix once I get my 9ball TBB and back to my 5-7 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badger Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 So, installed the guarder polycarb controls.. and within a few hours, the slide release had snapped, across the part the screw retaining it is. Whether it was a flawed mould or i'd misinstalled it, I've no idea, but it does seem that the guarder controls are more brittle than the original TM ones. A shame, as the black does look better, and for the sake of <20 dollars it's not worth sending them back. I'm looking into getting some more parts made up out of aluminium and then painting them though, so will see. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jotohomomoto Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Make sure you fill up the mag all the way with gas. The slide locks back so reliably I'd set my watch to it!!! Whatever that means!!! I gotta get a valve key zonIncan get this thing running again!!!! I miss my 5 7 in action! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spaniard Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Again, interest on CNC Steel hopup units? If you finally go for them, count me in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 For the CNC hopup, perhaps make a seperate threat? It'll be easier. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hal9000 Posted September 1, 2010 Report Share Posted September 1, 2010 (edited) I would be in for 1 or 2 cnc hopups. Edited September 1, 2010 by Hal9000 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted September 6, 2010 Report Share Posted September 6, 2010 Any news on the CNC hopups? My 5-7 is just laying here, unusable....that sad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 6, 2010 Report Share Posted September 6, 2010 You can do the silicone fix renegadecow suggested in the meantime. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lone_Bullet Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 oh, true, didnt think of that. ty ^^ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 (edited) I've finally run into a pretty big issue, dubbed the "KSC Glock Mag" issue (I think you know what's coming up...XD) I ran out of propane so when my friend was over I refilled all my mags with green gas. However, once filled, I noticed that the guns barely fired - when the trigger was pulled, all that came out was a "put" sound (something similar basically to when KSC Glock floating valves were broken). However, the gun also fired normally intermittently; it also seems that when dry firing, if the mag release is held down, the gun would also fire well. With a bit of testing, I found that by holding the mag upwards towards the slide (i.e. base grip), the gun fired fun, which is why I dubbed this the KSC Glock Mag issue (for those with KSC/KWA Glocks, you know a worn mag catch can result in an overall lower magazine position, which doesn't allow the hammer to strike the mag valve completely). I found my mag catch was working fine (I think), but noticed this on the hammer: I have also found the "other" part of this issue - metal shavings have residued on my magazines, making me believe that whatever metal is on the hammer has slowly been worn off, making it ineffective. My gun will still fire when I use a base grip, but the fact I have to do this is pretty annoying. Also, on a side note: the back screw holding in my hammer mech is stripped on my Guarder frame. I will take out the mag catch later and swap it with my stock TM one to see if any changes occur. EDIT: Scrap my previous statement completely - it's a mag catch issue. Great, exact same problem that Glocks have...now I need a CNC mag catch lol. Edited September 15, 2010 by aznriptide859 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 AZN let me know if you can find someone who'll do one, and whatever happened with the possible CNC hop run? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Instead of replacing the mag catch with a metal one, I've done something cheaper with mine when it was still new. I had noticed some wear from the start and almost immediately thought of the KSC Glock mag catch problem. Basically you need: -sharp knife/cutter -small piece of polycarbonate sheet like ones to make lens protectors out of -super glue -file/sandpaper With what polycarbonate you have at hand, take a measure of its thickness (usually 1~2mm) and remove material from the part of the mag catch where it actually catches with the mag. Rough up both the surface of the small piece of polycarbonate and the now recessed part on your catch so the glue will hold better. Apply glue, pressure, and when dry just remove the excess material hanging out and back to the original contour of the catch. Good thing about polycarbonate is it won't wear down the magazine like a metal one. I'll try to take pics later. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Well the thing is I was using Guarder's "Polycarb" controls..I guess they're not polycarb lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voodoo1 Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Yeah one our guys has broken several of the Guarder 'polycarb' controls he installed already Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badger Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 Same, in all honesty I'm not impressed with the guarder stuff at all. the controls snapped on me and the mag catch has already worn, some lightweight aluminium ones would probably do better. The worst bit is, the small recesses that the rear back slide section sits in (part FN15), have worn out on mine, so I'm going to need a replacement, and.. the only option, is guarder. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nikoneko Posted September 15, 2010 Report Share Posted September 15, 2010 The worst bit is, the small recesses that the rear back slide section sits in (part FN15), have worn out on mine, so I'm going to need a replacement, and.. the only option, is guarder. by any chance can we get a photo of this?...also my remedy for the two screw holes in the lower frame(Guarder) where the hammer assembly sits that broke on mine and had to "replace"with a new Guarder lower frame, now I silicone gasket the whole hammer assembly to the frame with the silicone surrounding the two screw holes. This i think prevents the hammer assembly from jarring from recoil and eventually cracking the screw holes. I did as advised in this thread the silicone in the hop chamber/outer/inner barrel now I might do the same to the FN15 part area also...this gun is becoming mostly silicone gasket. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Badger Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Sure thing, i'll crack out the camera tomorrow afternoon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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