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TM FN Five-seveN GBB


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Eh, I just can't see myself owning a pistol whose real caliber is smaller than the airsoft caliber.... :{

Credit... card... trick. I'm gonna cry myself to sleep tonight.

Of course I won't use an M4! What an abomination of a rifle!   If it's anything less than .30 caliber, I don't care about it!

A few comments on my 5-7s performance yesterday.

 

I had yet to use it for anything other than a few very close shots, yesterday I got caught in a situation where I had pretty much run out of ammo (hadn't reloaded all day) and needed something to defend with. All I have done to it is put it in a guarder frames and slide, and add on a metal outer barrel. I was taking out DMRs at quite a distance with this thing, and I finally noticed the automatic slide release when you load in a full mag, made reloads very fast.

 

I'm quite happy with the pistol.

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Pm'd you back, not entirely sure at what we would be looking at making. I'm thinking hop-up, mag release and possibly inner slide, but it would depend on what everyone wanted. Whatever you made for me I have a bud who would want his own set as well. As for cost between Christmas and Crye Precision I'm pretty broke, so hopefully we can keep costs down.

Edited by frogfish
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If anyone has pictures of the parts in question please post them. Exploded diagrams would help as well if pictures aren't available.

 

Ive seen pictures of the Creation metal slide. What is the general consensus on this part?

Edited by t_hum
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I don't see the point in wasting production time and cost on duplicating an existing upgrade part, the Creation Airsoft Inner Aluminum Slide. It is avaliable from Tokyo Model Company and UN Company, and if the stock supply is out or low, sending an e-mail to Creation Airsoft takes care of that.

 

On to the hop up chamber. I am interested in getting one so count me in.

 

Exploded diagram here :

 

tm57diag_resize.jpg

 

We're talking about part FN-25 and FN-26, the two halves of the hop up chamber. Estimate size is 4" long, 1" wide and 1½" high. Complexity, high, in my opinion. Lots of small groves and holes and cut-outs etc.

You would need the actual part, in pristine condition, to duplicate it successfully for production.

 

As for pictures of the actual part, here it is (copied URL from post by renegadecow on page 13 of this thread)

 

IMG_0687.jpg

IMG_0691.jpg

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Thanks NonEx. I actually went back and ready the bulk of this thread. When I got back you'd beaten me to the punch with the photos.

 

I figured parts 25 and 26 were the parts in questions. Am I right you were also talking about #64, Frogfish? The only reason I asked about the Creation slide was that the inner slides were mentioned. Though I do agree with you NonEx, if it ain't broke dont fix it. If there are issues associated with the part and its not doing its job correctly then its a different story.

 

Off the bat, 25 and 26 are pretty gnarly parts to make from billet. I can think of a few way it could be done with a few changes. Id be really interested to get the parts in hand and take a detailed look about what changes might have to be made. It can definitely be done but whether or not it will be time or cost effective is another question. It would require a bunch of setups and several custom fixtures. Biggest problem is the sharp corners where the diameters change. The part almost needs to be roughed out internally on the lathe, cut into the halves and then machined again on the mill. Tedious at best.

 

Can you give me a detailed description of where the part is failing?

 

Part 64 looks like a fairly easy part to do. Without a detailed pic I can't make promises but this seems like something that can be done relatively quickly.

Edited by t_hum
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The part failing in the hop up chamber are the notches that hold the outer barrel in place, as seen in the last referense image, dead center. The little nubb that has wear marks on it.

 

On another note, I just took some pics of my 5-7, drewl away!

 

 

1x Tokyo Marui FN 5-7 GBB

1x Guarder polycarbonate body kit black

1x Guarder threaded metal outer barrel

1x NINE BALL smooth recoil ring

1x FIREFLY cylinder valve

1x RCC 130% spring

1x NINE BALL precision inner barrel 6.03mm

1x Creation Airsoft Inner Aluminum Slide

1x Spartan Doctrine 110x30mm Delta Force Silencer

1x Sig Sauer STL-900L tactical flashlight, strobe/laser combo

 

fn57_right_full.jpg

 

fn57_left_full.jpg

 

fn57_bottom_full.jpg

 

fn57_safety_close.jpg

 

fn57_silencer_close.jpg

 

fn57_trades_close.jpg

 

The photos don't do the silencer justice, the color is not that much off in real light conditions...

 

Yumm.

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Yes we need better hop-ups (25,26), but also a new BBU that is one piece would be nice as well (15, 16, 17) as AznRiptide recommended.

 

 

We are also talking about part #64 (mag release) as you mentioned t_hum, but it is possible the metal release will ware out the pot metal mag.

 

 

The reason the inner slides would be nice is the creation slides are now pretty hard to find, and they are damaging hop-up units due to tight tolerances.

 

I also wanted to add, went to the range last friday before my game on saturday. My TM has as much if not more recoil than the real FN 5-7 I put about 100 rds through.

Edited by frogfish
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The issue with Creation slides is that although it increases the felt kick of the slide, it also increases the stress felt in the slide as it blows back. I blew my Guarder slide into pieces when using a Creation inner slide, so I've had to use the stock TM inner slide with the spare TM frame I'm using now. Perhaps if it were buffered correctly, the Creation inner would be fine to use.

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Don't forget about the BBU. The BBU is built up of 3 pieces: the main part that holds the nozzle and the two separate side rails on either side. The side rails are made separate for some strange reason unlike those on most other TM GBB's and are connected by a screw and a post. With the excess recoil of the 5-7, the post breaks eventually leaving the screw as the only thing holding things together and make for a sloppy slide to frame engagement.

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Can you see any reason why they made it 3 pieces? Can the unit be installed into the gun with the side rails attached?

 

Seems to me like a common issue between both the BBU and the hop housing is the use of small pot metal nubs to hold shear loads.

 

Seems like the only way Ill be able to evaluate this project further is to get some parts to inspect. Ill have a look around at some overseas retailers. If anyone has any insight into finding a good source for parts please let me know.

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Actually, just checking up on it again, it seems most Marui models don't have the guide rails as part of the BBU after all. They're part of the slide (1911, Glock, Sig). On the 5-7 at least, they are made part of the BBU as with RS. My only guess why they made the rails a separate part is to make it easier for pulling out of a mold as they are cast, not machined.

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Hey guys, I've been looking at GBB's again after selling my faulty KSC G17. I'm deciding between the TM G18c or the 5-7. Other then the KSC glock just mentioned, I've had no previous experience with GBB's, but I've wanted to enter the GBB scene for quite a while, so I was wondering which one was higher in terms of stock quality. I sifted through this whole thread as well as the 18c one. It seems that are some problems, such as the seals on the magazine, and the spacing between the inner slide and the frame. Are these problems because of upgrades made, or were they problems from the stock gun? I plan on keeping any GBB I get stock so I wouldn't know what my best buy would be.

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The problem (at least for the 5-7) is that it recoils, a lot. It was only designed to take 134a gas so the materials and design was limited to whatever forces 134a can generate under 40C. In comes propane, more recoil, bigger smiles and before you know it, you got a broken gun.

In a nut shell, don't use propane. But if you insist on using it, you'll need a high quality replacement o-ring for the magazine valve (gets soft too early leading to light strikes) and a tube of silicone sealant to reinforce the parts that get shaken to death.

 

There is one more method however I've only done it to my Detonics so I'm not 100% sure of its applicability to this platform. My Detonics recoils too much on propane and wouldn't even make the slide lock on empty. So what I did is file off 0.5mm (found by trial and error) from the tip of the valve knocker making its full stroke shorter by that much. What this did is limit the opening of the magazine valve, limiting the output of the gun both in power and blow back. It now recoils just as it did on 134a but using much cheaper propane gas. The fps went down too, but not as much as the recoil. It chronos about 20fps higher (230fps) than when using 134a (210fps).

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