Darcy Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 All righty then; now that the hop up is set; what is a good upgrade for a TM MEU? A metal body is not something I'm after, never was a big fan. I want to improve the accuracy and consistency of the shooting. So what would you guys recommend for that? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
-Angel- Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Nothing. Nothing whatsoever. TM pistols work. If it breaks, fix it. Until them, leave it alone. Link to post Share on other sites
Darcy Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Nothing. Nothing whatsoever. TM pistols work. If it breaks, fix it. Until them, leave it alone. That's reassuring. I was thinking tightbore and/or replacement mag valves; but wasn't sure of the real benefits of either or their cost effectiveness Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 That's reassuring. I was thinking tightbore and/or replacement mag valves; but wasn't sure of the real benefits of either or their cost effectiveness Tightbore barrel is good, mag valves not so much. They work by giving more gas to the mech, meaning you have less shots worth of gas. Its why people complain about the TM 1911s "bad" gas efficiency. Sticking a BB under the hammer spring ads a little FPS, but still leaves it able to finish the mag off clean. Link to post Share on other sites
Darcy Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Tightbore barrel is good, mag valves not so much. They work by giving more gas to the mech, meaning you have less shots worth of gas. Its why people complain about the TM 1911s "bad" gas efficiency. Sticking a BB under the hammer spring ads a little FPS, but still leaves it able to finish the mag off clean. what? how? Please explain. (thanks for the posts by the way) Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 what? how? Please explain. (thanks for the posts by the way) The MS(main spring(AKA hammer spring)) is about 6mm in its OD, and the channel for it in the MSH (Main Spring Housing(the back of the grip(brackets are fun))) is just larger than 6mm. This means that you can put a BB underneath it to space it, making for a stronger hammer spring without having to buy a new hammer spring. If you want to do this you pop the large pin out of the bottom of the grip, take the MSH off, remove the tiny brass coloured pin that holds the spring in place and pull out the stopper and spring, drop in a BB and reassemble. takes all of 2 minutes to do and is totally reversible. Be careful mind, the spring will likely try to blast its way out as you remove the little brass pin. Also, i lost the brass pin on one of my 1911s Link to post Share on other sites
faramon Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 I have a differing questions to go from short range to longish range I recently seemed to of lost my Mag release catch for my VSR 10 ... I can't seem to find it on dentrinity or uncompany so does anyone know the part no? or some place that has it? Link to post Share on other sites
Darcy Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 The MS(main spring(AKA hammer spring)) is about 6mm in its OD, and the channel for it in the MSH (Main Spring Housing(the back of the grip(brackets are fun))) is just larger than 6mm. This means that you can put a BB underneath it to space it, making for a stronger hammer spring without having to buy a new hammer spring. If you want to do this you pop the large pin out of the bottom of the grip, take the MSH off, remove the tiny brass coloured pin that holds the spring in place and pull out the stopper and spring, drop in a BB and reassemble. takes all of 2 minutes to do and is totally reversible. Be careful mind, the spring will likely try to blast its way out as you remove the little brass pin. Also, i lost the brass pin on one of my 1911s Let's get together and make a video! I found these gems recently; and (no affiliation) which show a 1911 take-down. These videos together with your explanation should see me through. Thanks. Darcy Link to post Share on other sites
vorgaphe Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Where do babies come from? No, seriously who easy is it to strip AEG's (M4 front wired). Link to post Share on other sites
FireKnife Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Where do babies come from? Posted Image No, seriously who easy is it to strip AEG's (M4 front wired). From your Dad. And as for other question don't you mean how? So what would you guys recommend for that? Tightbore, either 6.03mm or 6.01mm anything else is just unneccesary. 'FireKnife' Link to post Share on other sites
vorgaphe Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Well I got my UKARA thingy and I want to convert my IF to a RIF (don't worry the guy at my local site/shop said I could) and I would want to disassemble it to spray it. Link to post Share on other sites
Darcy Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 From your Dad. And as for other question don't you mean how? Tightbore, either 6.03mm or 6.01mm anything else is just unneccesary. 'FireKnife' When two grown-up people really love each other they have a special hug... Tightbore...shall look into it with more detail. so far I've found that tightbores are sold pre-cut for specific pistols and they almost reasonably priced. However, I have seen sellers on eBay and other sites selling long lengths of tightbores (1m or so) for the same amount (about £20). When I saw this; I thought, "great, I buy one of those and do all of my guns from it". The thing that is making me think twice is that using a pipe cutter (the only thing I can think of to cut bore, which is essentially small pipe) will actually narrow the diameter of the bore at the cut site. Obviously you can use a tool which usually comes attached to the pipe cutter to scrape the inside of the pipe after you cut it and widen it out, but it would be so easy to overshoot and make it wider than 6.03 mm... How is that little head-scratcher circumnavigated? Also, not to mention that from looking at pictures of tightobores I can see that one end of the tightbore has a cut in it; which I assume needs to be precisely cut so that it can fit on the hop. do these two factors make my idea of buying lengths of tightbore and upgrading gun bores on the cheap unworkable? Link to post Share on other sites
FireKnife Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 (don't worry the guy at my local site/shop said I could) Too bad the UK Government ranks over him then. It would be better to actually remove the offending two-tone sections and replace them with which ever colour you choose. Spraying over a IF to make a RIF can be viewed as 'Manufacture' which is as far as i recall a grey area when it comes to airsoft and what is legal. 'FireKnife' Link to post Share on other sites
Darcy Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Too bad the UK Government ranks over him then. It would be better to actually remove the offending two-tone sections and replace them with which ever colour you choose. Spraying over a IF to make a RIF can be viewed as 'Manufacture' which is as far as i recall a grey area when it comes to airsoft and what is legal. 'FireKnife' Oh? I thought manufacture was covered... why do you say it is a grey area? Link to post Share on other sites
vorgaphe Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Yeah I know that you're not supposed to convert an IF into a RIF but I don't count on getting arrested and I'm only going to go to that site. Maybe I should just buy the same gun in its RIF form? Link to post Share on other sites
FireKnife Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Maybe I should just buy the same gun in its RIF form? Yes you should, then sell off the IF to a new player. why do you say it is a grey area? Because it is a very easy area for someone to bend the rules if they find out and it could lead to prosecution as it can be difficult to prove it was down under UKARA or not. It is safer to simply buy or replace any two-tone parts. 'FireKnife' Link to post Share on other sites
Darcy Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Because it is a very easy area for someone to bend the rules if they find out and it could lead to prosecution as it can be difficult to prove it was down under UKARA or not. It is safer to simply buy or replace any two-tone parts. 'FireKnife' All right. I see your point. Is it not a case of "innocent until proven guilty" when it comes to VCRa related stuff? Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Oh for crying out loud... If you play airsoft you have defense against the VCRa. Having UKARA or something else is just proof. If you play airsoft you can convert an IF to a RIF. Its not a gray area it is perfectly legal. Though I would recommend you have proof of your defense before you do this. Site membership, UKARA and so on are good ways to prove defense. UKARA has nothing to do with manufacture or import, nor does it have anything to do with second hand sales. It is only to do with buying from retailers in the UK, thats why it is called the United Kingdom Airsoft Retailers Association. Link to post Share on other sites
Darcy Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 Tightbore...shall look into it with more detail. so far I've found that tightbores are sold pre-cut for specific pistols and they almost reasonably priced. However, I have seen sellers on eBay and other sites selling long lengths of tightbores (1m or so) for the same amount (about £20). When I saw this; I thought, "great, I buy one of those and do all of my guns from it". The thing that is making me think twice is that using a pipe cutter (the only thing I can think of to cut bore, which is essentially small pipe) will actually narrow the diameter of the bore at the cut site. Obviously you can use a tool which usually comes attached to the pipe cutter to scrape the inside of the pipe after you cut it and widen it out, but it would be so easy to overshoot and make it wider than 6.03 mm... How is that little head-scratcher circumnavigated? Also, not to mention that from looking at pictures of tightobores I can see that one end of the tightbore has a cut in it; which I assume needs to be precisely cut so that it can fit on the hop. do these two factors make my idea of buying lengths of tightbore and upgrading gun bores on the cheap unworkable? I was wondering if someone had any insight into my previous post, which I quote above. Also, does the WE M9 have a hop-up? If so, how does one adjust it? Link to post Share on other sites
[NL]Infinity Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 I have no personal experience with the WE M9, but I found these video's on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvkDmlREn2g Link to post Share on other sites
[NL]Infinity Posted February 18, 2011 Report Share Posted February 18, 2011 About the innerbarrels: It MIGHT be possible, but I think it is a very delicate job to make/cut you're own innerbarrels and requires the right tools. The cutting is not really a problem, I cut my m16 barrel to CQB length just last week. From my experience, I noticed that the scraper tool on the end of the pipe-cutter does not suffice. It actually pushes material into the bore of the barrel, creating a small ridge on which bb's will get stuck! Its best to use something like a countersink or if not at hand, a very large drill (bigger than the outer-diameter of the barrel!), to create a smooth finish. AEG and GBB barrels are different from each other (in case you didn't know), when it comes to the part that goes into the hop-up. It's important that these parts have the proper dimensions, so when you do it: measuring is key It is best to use a milling-machine, to create the cut (for AEG's) or form the end of the barrel. OR maybe if you are really-really good with files, your can do it by hand, but I think it is tricky! Link to post Share on other sites
FireKnife Posted February 23, 2011 Report Share Posted February 23, 2011 I was wondering if someone had any insight into my previous post, which I quote above. Trust me, based on time and money it would be easier to get them pre-cut to fit your gun. Madbull ones (had a 247mm one in the P90) work perfectly and only cost £30 for a AEG. As for pistols i have a PDI (i think) in my 1911A1 and that helps knock a few extra FPS out (5 or so) and it does help the shots place better on target. 'FireKnife' Link to post Share on other sites
Bando Posted February 25, 2011 Report Share Posted February 25, 2011 do any companies make metal Brigadier slides for TM M9s? the only one i know of is the Zeke one (which i have) but im looking for another (pref with no trades) Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted February 27, 2011 Report Share Posted February 27, 2011 Cutting AEG barrels is really easy, most barrels are made of brass or ally and are really soft. I've done it loads of times. All you do it use your method of choice to cut the end off, pipe cutter, hacksaw etc. and then get some small files and put a bevelled throat on the inside of the barrel. I've now got a mill/lathe combo and so it's even easier but it was never hard. Link to post Share on other sites
joss1 Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 after going around my local town's electrical shops, i'm at a dead end. does anyone know where I can acquire a fuse for my galaxy mp5k? thanks, Joss. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.