Army Armament R85 (L85A1)

[falconfour4]

i've fired about 10000 rounds so far and its still going strong apart from occaisonaly the rod that holds the spring on for the recoil comes out, i have to break the gun down and refit the rod and tighten the grub screw.

i'm using a 7.2v large battery and the rof is still pretty good, more in keeping with the real L85 and hopefully it will keep the piston from stripping

Edited July 22, 2007 by falconfour4

[Stealthbomber]

I genuinely CANNOT BELIEVE people are moaning about damaged piston.

 

Guys, it's a copy of the G&G gun and that's famous for damaging pistons.

The ONLY way to overcome this fully is to fit a 16-tooth piston and a 10mm spacer.

 

Alternatively, running a 7.2v battery OR using a stronger spring will affect the ROF so the piston isn't damaged.

 

Getting replacement pistons 18 tooth pistons won't help. All it'll do is give you lots of practice at stripping your gun down.

It'll also give you a drawer full of broken 18 tooth pistons. Been there, done that.

[nuclear_darkness]

10mm spacer you say.... i must try that as i have a spare new madbull steel toothed piston lying around somewhere, although ill put good money on it that its in my house in bristol.... bloody typical ¬_¬

[Apex]

just slap a tm piston in and the spacer is no that expensive

 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=21782

[my_plague_666]

by fitting a 16 tooth and a space will you loose the precocking function?

[otherrandomhero]

Yes. It says that in the link.

[my_plague_666]

damn that sucks.

 

i couldnt open the link, my browser is being a bit tetchy.

 

would the piston problem be solved by installing an aluminium PSG1 piston, or would that worsen the situation by wrecking the gears?

[Apex]

damn that sucks.

 

i couldnt open the link, my browser is being a bit tetchy.

 

would the piston problem be solved by installing an aluminium PSG1 piston, or would that worsen the situation by wrecking the gears?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

You would still need the spacer.

[Killian]

Thank you guys, good to know that there is a way how to use standard pistons (although you loose the pre-tensioned semi) - I'll order that spacer as soon as I break my piston, hopefuly that won't be too soon...

[mr_stabby-BSF-]

I have put thousands of rounds through my gun and it is running fine (touches wood) seems odd that some break really quick.

[Stealthbomber]

by fitting a 16 tooth and a space will you loose the precocking function?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not neccesarily.

 

If you fit a 16 tooth piston you'll need to have less teeth on the sector gear as well.

 

You can do this EITHER by fitting a stock TM sector gear, in which case you will lose the pre-cocked firing OR you can use a dremel to grind 3 teeth off the G&G sector gear.

 

Personally, I recommend you ditch the pre-cocked firing. It puts the battery under a lot of strain.

[Freypal]

Not neccesarily.

 

If you fit a 16 tooth piston you'll need to have less teeth on the sector gear as well.

 

You can do this EITHER by fitting a stock TM sector gear, in which case you will lose the pre-cocked firing OR you can use a dremel to grind 3 teeth off the G&G sector gear.

 

Personally, I recommend you ditch the pre-cocked firing. It puts the battery under a lot of strain.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Sorry for sounding very dim but what exactly do you mean by pre-cocked firing ? I thought by definition an airsoft gun was pre-cocked...

[lordyeray]

Sorry for sounding very dim but what exactly do you mean by pre-cocked firing ? I thought by definition an airsoft gun was pre-cocked...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

In precocked AEGs (G&G/ARMY L85 or PSG1) the spring is in tension prior to pulling the trigger, so after pulling it, the shot is "immediate", and after that the gun cocks again ready for the next shot.

 

In normal AEGs the spring is relaxed/uncompressed, so after you pull the trigger, the AEG has to compress the spring, release it and fire, which translates in a little "trigger-delay".

Edited July 23, 2007 by lordyeray

[Freypal]

In precocked AEGs (G&G/ARMY L85 or PSG1) the spring is in tension prior to pulling the trigger, so after pulling it, the shot is "immediate", and after that the gun cocks again ready for the next shot.

 

In normal AEGs the spring is relaxed/uncompressed, so after you pull the trigger, the AEG has to compress the spring, release it and fire, which translates in a little "trigger-delay".

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Ah right thanks. Tbh i hadn't noticed any difference between it and my other AEGs

[my_plague_666]

You would still need the spacer.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

...why the PSG1 uses an 18 tooth piston and pre cocked mechanism.

 

is there ANY way i can reliably and easily retain the precocking system without damaging any parts (blowback included)?

 

i'd like to buy one of these for DMR/sniping/countersniping use and i can see the precocked gearbox being an advantage. the only other way i can think of to minimise trigger lag would be to use a 9.6V+ battery or a faster motor, neither of which i could see doing the blowback much good.

[Stealthbomber]

...why the PSG1 uses an 18 tooth piston and pre cocked mechanism.

 

is there ANY way i can reliably and easily retain the precocking system without damaging any parts (blowback included)?

 

i'd like to buy one of these for DMR/sniping/countersniping use and i can see the precocked gearbox being an advantage. the only other way i can think of to minimise trigger lag would be to use a 9.6V+ battery or a faster motor, neither of which i could see doing the blowback much good.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The whole thing should be fine in stock form as long as you only shoot it in semi-auto.

 

If you start using full-auto the lifespan of the piston can probably be measured in minutes rather than hours.

 

To reduce the risk you can do 2 things:-

 

First, you can use a 7.2v battery. This might be OK since it's firing from the pre-cocked spring so you won't have huge trigger lag even though the ROF in auto will be lower.

 

Second, you can fit a stronger spring. The G&G gun came with an M120 spring in it and everybody thought G&G were being nice. It soon became apparent they fitted an M120 so the piston sprung forward before the sector gear got chance to spin round and mangle it up.

 

You can fit a 16 tooth piston (with the spacer) and still retain the pre-cocked firing by simply grinding 3 teeth off the Army sector gear with a dremel or file.

[my_plague_666]

i would still like full auto as an option, and a stronger spring than around M100 or 1J isnt an option (due to FPS limits). if i used a 16 tooth piston and filed down the sector gear would that retain precocking, full auto and not self destruct?

 

as i said before would an aluminium 16 tooth be a good idea or not? it would improve the durability of the piston (obviously) but would the probabilty of the piston self destructing just be moved to the gears self destructing which is worse.

 

or would i be able to decrease the trigger lag with say an EG1000 or something without the blowback breaking?

[falconfour4]

im using a 7.2v battery in mine and the rof is still quite high and the trigger lag is virtually non existent.

so long as you use a quality battery with a high discharge rate trigger lag will be nominal

 

just get the gun and stick a large good quality 7.2v battery in and use it. mine is still good after about ten thousand rounds and all with the blow back working

Edited July 23, 2007 by falconfour4

[Neotheone]

im using a 7.2v battery in mine and the rof is still quite high and the trigger lag is virtually non existent.

so long as you use a quality battery with a high discharge rate trigger lag will be nominal

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Hi falconfour-did you get my PM regarding the tightbore on the L85 m8?

[falconfour4]

yeah that tightbore i tried was in a differnt gun not the r85.

a tightbore in the r85 did make it a little bit better but not drastically in my opinion.

its pretty accurate out of the box

[rolling-thunder]

I got my guns gas parts from rsov this morning.I'm still going to have to get a grub screw for the cocking handle but that wont be a killer.Thread lock will take care of any chance of loosing the cocking handle by it coming unscrewed.

[Stealthbomber]

i would still like full auto as an option, and a stronger spring than around M100 or 1J isnt an option (due to FPS limits). if i used a 16 tooth piston and filed down the sector gear would that retain precocking, full auto and not self destruct?

If you fit a 16 tooth piston and spacer then removed 3 teeth from the sector gear you'll still have the pre-cocking feature working. Yes.

 

as i said before would an aluminium 16 tooth be a good idea or not? it would improve the durability of the piston (obviously) but would the probabilty of the piston self destructing just be moved to the gears self destructing which is worse.

Avoid aluminium pistons like the plague.

I'm sure you'll read debates about whether they're useful or not but, in this gun, they are a BAD idea.

 

At the moment you have potential problems with the piston. If it goes wrong the piston will break.

If you fit an aluminium piston and something goes wrong you'll do damage to the gears.

The bevel gear and spur gear are unique to this gun. It does NOT work with V2/V3 gears.

The only bevel gear and spur gear that fit it are from the PSG1.

Your options for replacement gears will be severely limited.

 

So, to recap, don't put an alloy piston in this gun because you NEED to protect the gears from damage.

 

or would i be able to decrease the trigger lag with say an EG1000 or something without the blowback breaking?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Trigger lag isn't the issue.

You can shoot the gun on 7.2v with no trigger lag.

The clever part is obtaining a decent (800-odd) ROF and stopping the piston killing itself. That's where the 16 tooth piston comes in.

If you're happy with a ROF around 550-600 RPM then just buy a couple of 7.2v batteries from Maplin (dirt-cheap IIRC) and you're sorted.

[rolling-thunder]

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/steel_grub_screws.htm

 

http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/stainless_grub_screws.htm

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Anyone know which size grub screw is needed to retain the cocking handle?I'm not to good with these things!

[Sale]

There's been some confusion about whether you can have the cake and eat it yoo. Yes you can.

 

By installing the spacer and removing the three first teeth of the original sector gear, you:

 

-Can downgrade the weapon to 1 Joules

-Retain the pre-cocked firing

-Retain the bolt carrier action

-Shoot full auto all you like

-Use a large 8.4 or even 9.6 volt battery

-Select your favorite V1/2/3 standard AEG piston to use with the gun

-Use regular AEG springs and get a similar velocity as with other AEGs

 

IF you don't want to retain the pre-cocked action, simply use a regular AEG sector gear. All other points still stand.

 

Hope this clears the issues for anyone.

 

-Sale

[Freypal]

I still think its pretty damn good considering you get this problem with the G&G which costs 3 times the price. Money well saved