Army Armament R85 (L85A1)

[Subb0]

sorry to sound silly but I'm going to buy one of these when they ocme in stock is it easy enough to say If I jsut get a 7.2 volt battry i'll be fine because this all sounds complicated and I don't want to go into my gun really or will it be fine out of the box?

[my_plague_666]

if (as sale says) i can retain precocking and use an 8.4 and full auto without problems then i think i'll try to mod the gear. and if it does all go pear shaped a new piston and sector gear shouldnt break the bank.

 

thanks for the advice =) i recon this will have to be my next purchase after an AKS74u.

 

one more quick question, is there space in the foregrip to mount a short rail at the front so i can use bipods.

[Neotheone]

....

You can shoot the gun on 7.2v with no trigger lag.

The clever part is obtaining a decent (800-odd) ROF and stopping the piston killing itself. That's where the 16 tooth piston comes in.

If you're happy with a ROF around 550-600 RPM then just buy a couple of 7.2v batteries from Maplin (dirt-cheap IIRC) and you're sorted.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

From what I understand Subb0,yes that would solve the problem as it would reduce the rate of fire enough to ensure the sector gear does not meet the piston before it has had a chance to fully complete its cycle.

 

Anyway getting a 7.2v battery is the fix um gonna use as I don`t want to have to replace gear s or add a spacer and 600 rpm is fine by me.

[Subb0]

Awesome thanks very much. I'll get a couple of them will they still last a good bit of the day too?

[Freypal]

Voltage will only relate to the ROF. Its the mah capacity that will define how long they last.

[Freypal]

My cocking handle fell off Firing off some rounds and it dropped off same as Killian's did. I'm going to re-glue it. If that doesnt work im gonna weld the bolt to the slide plate.

[rolling-thunder]

My cocking handle fell off Firing off some rounds and it dropped off same as Killian's did. I'm going to re-glue it. If that doesnt work im gonna weld the bolt to the slide plate.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

why not drill it & tap the hole & then screw it to the plate?

[falconfour4]

I got the G & G A2 cocking handle. The fitting is different, the G & G one pushes on and is held solely by the grub screw. I had to shave the hole out a little with a drill but it then just screwed on nicely. its very secure and i dont need the grub screw to secure it.

looks much better in my opinion as well

 

 

 

 

i've got a star susat on the way from Keith at RSOV and then it will be complete.

[Freypal]

why not drill it & tap the hole & then screw it to the plate?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

There is no room behind the plate for a protruding screw. It is so close to catching on the hop up adjustment dial as it is.

[Killian]

I used some super-glue on the cocking handle and it seems to hold very well. I disabled the blowback, the handle is not moving now - so it doesn't bother me.

[Freypal]

I got the G & G A2 cocking handle. The fitting is different, the G & G one pushes on and is held solely by the grub screw. I had to shave the hole out a little with a drill but it then just screwed on nicely. its very secure and i dont need the grub screw to secure it.

looks much better in my opinion as well

 

 

 

 

i've got a star susat on the way from Keith at RSOV and then it will be complete.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

How much did you pay for the Star SUSAT ? I may need to invest

[Stealthbomber]

one more quick question, is there space in the foregrip to mount a short rail at the front so i can use bipods.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Erm... not really.

The battery sits inside the foregrip so you don't really want to be putting screws through the bottom of the foregrip in case they create problems with the battery.

 

You can fit a rail to the side of the foregrip.

 

Be advised, though, that neither the bottom or the sides of the foregrip run parallel to the barrel so you'll have to shape or shim any rail you fit to ensure it's running true to the barrel.

 

My cocking handle fell off Firing off some rounds and it dropped off same as Killian's did. I'm going to re-glue it. If that doesnt work im gonna weld the bolt to the slide plate.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That happened to my G&G one too. I seems to be a design fault.

Again, this is something that is going to happen more with the clone than it did with the G&G gun because of the lower QC.

 

You can't screw the handle back on, as has been said, because the fake bolt is touching the outside of the gearbox cylinder.

 

I tried to drill out the fake bolt with the intention of counter-sinking it and fitting a suitable screw.

Forget it!

The fake bolt is made of the toughest spring-steel you'll ever see in an airsoft gun.

If the bolt on the Army L85 is made of the same material it'll be, literally, impossible to drill through.

Your only option might be to grind it out to make a counter-sunk hole for a screw.

[rolling-thunder]

Heating up any tough metal is a good way of softening it up{off the gun of course},counter sinking any screw holes is the best bet but it might be worth having someone tack weld the metal together as long as you grind the resultant weld flat.Glue isn't worth doing,it will drop off at the first chance because of the vibrations.

[Freypal]

One other thing that has started happening over the past couple of days is that on full auto occasionaly the cycle speed will slow down. When this is happening the bolt is physically harder to pull back. I stripped the gun down and the blowback mechanism on top of the gearbox feels "stiff" there is one point along where the blowback slide where it will become physically hard to move. I assume this is what is causing the "slowdown".

 

Anyone else had this ? Or heard of it ? It will be firing at a really nice ROF and then suddenly it will drop dramtically and the gun sounds laboured to keep cycling then will go fast again.

[DazJW]

I've finally given in and I'm pre-ordering one of these today.

Hopefully the problems that people are having (cocking handle falling off wise anyway) won't be present by the time AH/AW get their shipment.

 

Best order a piston and sector gear too.

[Killian]

Anyone else had this ? Or heard of it ? It will be firing at a really nice ROF and then suddenly it will drop dramtically and the gun sounds laboured to keep cycling then will go fast again.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

That's exactly on one of the two guns I have - there is a point like you describe, about on the half way of the bolt, it seems like the mechabox is too close to the bolt. I disassembled the whole upper part of the body, including the bolt but it's still too close - my guess is, that the whole mechabox is positioned too much on one side. I don't want to take out the whole mechabox until it breaks.

 

This is another reason why I disabled the blowback - I just took out the small part inside including the microscopic spring. And you can glue the broken handle, since it doesn't move after disabling the blowback, you don't have to worry about vibrations that could break the glue.

 

The whole blowback is just a source of problems, I don't see a practical reason to have it...

Edited July 25, 2007 by Killian

[Neotheone]

.....

The whole blowback is just a source of problems, I don't see a practical reason to have it...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Agreed.I`ve disabled mine too.

 

Have n`t had the slowing down of the ROF tho`.

[Freypal]

I don't like the idea of having bought something and not being able to use it properly. I really dont want to have to disable it :/

[lineman66]

honestly the only thing that the auto blowback will get ya in a game is dirt in the receiver then gearbox, doesn't do anything but look cool, why worry about that when you're in a skirm?

[Freypal]

honestly the only thing that the auto blowback will get ya in a game is dirt in the receiver then gearbox, doesn't do anything but look cool, why worry about that when you're in a skirm?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

It looks damn cool though Seriously considering ordering a few hicaps / a new hopup bucking and a Susat off UN. Co or WGC. Can get it all for £100

[Sale]

I suspect the fake bolt carrier is steel. If the handle is steel as well (or even brass, or actually anything but aluminum or zinc/pot metal), then you could attach the pieces together by hard-soldering (I'm not sure of the English term for this, but you use a blowtorch for this) the joint with silver.

 

-Sale

[DazJW]

Hard soldering would be welding I believe.

[Stealthbomber]

Hard soldering would be welding I believe.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not quite.

 

There's silver soldering and brazing. I suspect Sale is talking about brazing.

 

I can only speak from experience of the G&G gun but the fake bolt seemed to be a very coarse, crystaline, material, like cast iron. I was shocked when I discovered how hard it was when I tried to drill it. I'm not sure how it'd respond to a blow lamp.

I'd suggest testing it at the back, where the hook for the blowback thing is.

 

The way the handle is mounted on the bolt, at the factory, is that the stub end of the shaft is pushed through a hole in the bolt and it's spot-welded on the back side.

As Sale says, attacking the shaft of the handle with a blowlamp and brazing rod would probably fix it back in place.

However, this would probably mean mangling the knob, itself, so you could get the shaft out to braze it. You'd then need to source yet another handle to fit on the shaft.

 

IIRC, there was no obvious way to get the charging handle off its shaft.

I might be wrong there though. I only had mine for about 3 days before it went AWOL.

If the handle DOES come off the shaft then I guess you could try brazing it.

[Freypal]

Not quite.

 

There's silver soldering and brazing. I suspect Sale is talking about brazing.

 

I can only speak from experience of the G&G gun but the fake bolt seemed to be a very coarse, crystaline, material, like cast iron. I was shocked when I discovered how hard it was when I tried to drill it. I'm not sure how it'd respond to a blow lamp.

I'd suggest testing it at the back, where the hook for the blowback thing is.

 

The way the handle is mounted on the bolt, at the factory, is that the stub end of the shaft is pushed through a hole in the bolt and it's spot-welded on the back side.

As Sale says, attacking the shaft of the handle with a blowlamp and brazing rod would probably fix it back in place.

However, this would probably mean mangling the knob, itself, so you could get the shaft out to braze it. You'd then need to source yet another handle to fit on the shaft.

 

IIRC, there was no obvious way to get the charging handle off its shaft.

I might be wrong there though. I only had mine for about 3 days before it went AWOL.

If the handle DOES come off the shaft then I guess you could try brazing it.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Glueing hasn't worked so im going to take the slide off and try mig welding it. I will just put a few small spots on the edges like seam welding it but on a very low setting and see how i get on.

 

If it works i can post piccies.

[Stealthbomber]

Are you planning to weld it from the back or the front?

 

Have you discovered whether the handle and the shaft come apart?