theprodigy Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 can you post a pic? ill try and get a pic tonight Quote Link to post Share on other sites
newcomer Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 (similar to the one on my Tanaka .500 which has an incredibly stable hop). Â edit: I forgot to mention I tried other stuff like rubber and silicon but both were too soft from the lack of material and would have the nub fold down and cause even more hop-up effect. The hot glue is more rigid and not as 'gripy' as the other two materials so the nub would slip over the bb and give it the right amount of spin. Â That's interesting renegadecow, I assume you measure the stable and right amount of consistent backspin by judging the flight pattern of the bb? This may sound out of the blue but I think the surest way to measure the rpm and decay rate of a spinning bb is by filming it on a hi-speed camera in the 4000FPS range. Haha just another wishful thinking of mine. Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
newcomer Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I received my order of spare parts and upgrade parts from AirsoftBuddy. I was astonished to see the user is supposed to glue some o-rings to the enhanced piston head. This is not mentioned with the item info. I'm not really happy with this.  Also NOW (for 1 day, before this was NOT mentioned) it says : "Parts #122 for WE Gas Blow Back M4 Selling in each, not 5pcs"  But the picture still shows 5 pieces and the description still says partS (with an S).  So I expected to receive 5 pieces.  I'm not really happy with this.  I just wanted to share this info.  O rings are designed to expand and move forward in the groove to create a proper seal. That's why rings are free to move around in a groove. Supergluing it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 no one else has seen this then i take it  Absolutely normal. All the bolts have it - its >not< a crack.  Its just a "burn through" from the machining process - and a little "flashing" left in the slit.  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wraithxt1 Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I noticed the "crack" on mine as well. I wasnt worried, its in a non contact part of the bolt, so I cant imagine any issues with it. Interestingly enough, I got a gen2 bolt that doesnt have it. However, the material in that groove is still paper thin. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WETTI Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 don't think its been asked yet so to clear up any potential misunderstandings, will the 'couple of conversion parts to allow a green gas version to run the CO2' mags actually turn the green gas gun into same spec as an out of the box CO2 one, or will the CO2 one have additional changes/improvements over and above the parts needed for a green gas to CO2 'conversion'? eg just wondering if we'll end up with  green gas guns green gas guns converted to CO2 mag use CO2 guns  or  green gas guns CO2 guns (out of the box or 'CO2 converted from green gas' being exactly the same)  If there are going to be differences between 'out of the box CO2' and a 'green gas converted to CO2', then Id reckon folks might like to be aware of it before laying out money on a CO2 gun from a supplier ..only to find its actually a converted green gas one.  The only difference is the the locking CO2 nozzle/housing assembly & all previous M4s can be converted into a CO2-compatible platform.  WETTI Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) Well I finally had a look at my buddy's rifle with the missing forward assist button and I've stripped the rifle and the spring from the forward assist assembly is also missing! I managed to buy a complete forward assist assembly replacement for him but at the time I didn't realise the spring wasn't there either! Another part to buy Anywho, can anyone tell me how to remove the forward assist from the rifle? I can't get it out, I presume the small pin in the upper receiver around that area has something to do with it but I've tried punching it out and it isn't budging. I don't want to force it if it isn't the correct bit. Thanks guys. Edited April 10, 2009 by chris u'5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) That's the right way to do it, but the pin is a complete *badgeress* to get in and out. After you get the pin out the forward assist assembly should slide right out. Â Â Â What's this about an M16A3? I'd consider selling my M4 if one were to come out... Â Edit: Unless additional stock and barrel options were to be released also. Edited April 10, 2009 by Chris North Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Carsten Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I've tried punching it out and it isn't budging I had to use a hammer.. Â remember, you can only get it out in one direction. You have to push it from the bottom to the top! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 That's brilliant. Thank you guys. Â One more question please If you don't have any 1500 grit sandpaper to smooth down the brass cylinder opening is it still worth using Loctite to secure part 36 in the meantime? (It'll be next week before we can get some 1500 grit) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris North Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 As long as it's aligned perfectly, then definitely. Â If you have trouble finding 1500-2000 grit sandpaper, I used 1000 grit sandpaper which seems to have done its job well enough. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
w0lfy Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I finally managed to take apart the front part of the external barrel. Funny thing is that I just wanted to take off the flash hinder and the whole front section started to come off. I also managed to install the short inner barrel which went in really easy. Â Now my GBB replica looks much much better Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) So were you trying to turn in the correct way then w0lfy? Â Thanks to Chris and Carsten by the way. I got the pin out (it was a *badgeress*!) I just need to buy a replacement spring now so I've not put it all the way in again as I will only have to get the bloody thing out again Edited April 10, 2009 by chris u'5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
w0lfy Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 Well, it has the same tread as the flash hinder, so I was trying to take it off the right way. Who knows, maybe it got lose after a full day skirmish. Anyway, I am happy that it did. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chris u'5 Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I can't get mine off either! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rottenotto Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 However, the material in that groove is still paper thin. Â Â Yep, that's called "flash" or "flashing". This thin unwanted material left behind. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 WOLFY, your conversion is awesome!! I kinda want a similar cqb look. I like them nice and clean! Did that rail come with an internal gas block? Where does the gas tube end up going? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trinco Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 w0lfy, seriously u're making me jealous! im looking forward getting the 7.25" soon... im converting mine to SBR diplomat Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Airsoft Buddy Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 I finally managed to take apart the front part of the external barrel. Funny thing is that I just wanted to take off the flash hinder and the whole front section started to come off. I also managed to install the short inner barrel which went in really easy. Now my GBB replica looks much much better  If you changed the stock to Vltor or Magpul and the hand grip, then will be excellent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lukvdh Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 Hi all, Â I would like to remove part # 112 from my WE M4 Gbb to polish the entry (as explained somewhere). Â Can I get to that part without having to disassemble the whole barrel / front end ? Â Â Thanks in advance. Â Â P.S. Did anyone get the 'missing o-ring' for the Steel Nozzle Assembly yet? Is it the same size as the original part 45? Â I received two Steel Nozzle Assy's, but the o-rings are not there (so these Nozzle Assemblies are useless at the moment I guess....) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
redline Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 Hi all, I would like to remove part # 112 from my WE M4 Gbb to polish the entry (as explained somewhere).  Can I get to that part without having to disassemble the whole barrel / front end ?   Thanks in advance.   P.S. Did anyone get the 'missing o-ring' for the Steel Nozzle Assembly yet? Is it the same size as the original part 45?  I received two Steel Nozzle Assy's, but the o-rings are not there (so these Nozzle Assemblies are useless at the moment I guess....)  Dude, I think I was the first person to complain of missing 0-rings with the steel assembly. TS-1 said they'd mail me the 0-ring. I don't know whether they've done it yet or not..I haven't recieved any 0-rings thus far... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 That's interesting renegadecow, I assume you measure the stable and right amount of consistent backspin by judging the flight pattern of the bb? This may sound out of the blue but I think the surest way to measure the rpm and decay rate of a spinning bb is by filming it on a hi-speed camera in the 4000FPS range. Haha just another wishful thinking of mine. Yup, just eyeballing it really. It didn't sky rocket past 20m like the old one did. When my parts arrive to fix it, I'll further test it on paper and maybe compare it to the new barrel and hop if and when I decide to get those too (more likely when). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
theprodigy Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Hi all, I would like to remove part # 112 from my WE M4 Gbb to polish the entry (as explained somewhere).  Can I get to that part without having to disassemble the whole barrel / front end ?   Thanks in advance.   P.S. Did anyone get the 'missing o-ring' for the Steel Nozzle Assembly yet? Is it the same size as the original part 45?  I received two Steel Nozzle Assy's, but the o-rings are not there (so these Nozzle Assemblies are useless at the moment I guess....)  i would like to know this as well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Victory Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 (edited) Also, once we upgrade, are we still compatible with the original green gas mags? Â Same question. Pretty sure it hasn't been answered yet. Â -Vic Edited April 11, 2009 by Victory Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wraithxt1 Posted April 11, 2009 Report Share Posted April 11, 2009 Should the steel valve have two orings? It was missing one when I got it from AB, but I could have sworn there was another on the front of the nozzle somewhere.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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