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Philbucknall

WE SCAR Review

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Finally got a SCAR of my own, open bolt of course... This thing really does shoot hard, I think harder than my G36 and L85.

 

Anyways the first thing I did was put some clear ehm... nail polish on the roller pin of the hammer. Believe me this clear nail polish really works, Just put a couple of drops on the pin and it wont ever fall out. Tested it on both my G36 and L85. It also cured the pins that keeps falling out from my L85's spring guide.

 

Another thing I did, inspired by the credit card mod, instead of using credit cards, I used a couple of rubber o-rings that I had lying around. Lets hope the extra rubber helps a bit.

 

Overall I'm impressed with this gun :D

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Finally got a SCAR of my own, open bolt of course... This thing really does shoot hard, I think harder than my G36 and L85.

 

Anyways the first thing I did was put some clear ehm... nail polish on the roller pin of the hammer. Believe me this clear nail polish really works, Just put a couple of drops on the pin and it wont ever fall out. Tested it on both my G36 and L85. It also cured the pins that keeps falling out from my L85's spring guide.

 

Another thing I did, inspired by the credit card mod, instead of using credit cards, I used a couple of rubber o-rings that I had lying around. Lets hope the extra rubber helps a bit.

 

Overall I'm impressed with this gun :D

 

If the bolt jams backwards when you shoot on semi or auto and you know you've still got bbs left in your magazine; the only way to reset the bolt is to unpin the lower receiver. The pin WILL be a *badgeress* to remove since the bolt is exerting force against the pin laterally and you might need to use a screw-driver of the same or smaller diameter than the receiver pin to aid in hammering out the pin.

 

Once the bolt is back in battery, do not fire the gun yet! (hopefully this will never happen to you if your o-rings will hold up! :P) The hammer most likely damaged the bolt 'lips' and the nozzle so you'll need to completely remove the bolt from the bolt rails; remove the 2 metal blocks that act as a guide rail for the nozzle, hammer out the nozzle retaining pin and use a pair of pilers to wrench the bolt 'lips' back to its original position; then reassemble everything. Otherwise; your bolt will just continue to jam on you and you'll damage the bolt and the nozzle further.

 

How much length (or thickness) did you manage to add between the recoil guide buffer and the recoil guide metal plate? I had 4 credit-card's (it wasn't actually credit cards; they were bits from an old membership card I had that I don't need any more :P) worth of thickness (then 3 later one because I misplaced one) but I think even 2 credit card pieces would be fine. Anyway, remember what I said above if the o-ring modification fails on you so you won't damage your bolt further (unlike what I tried to do!)

Edited by intinerious

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I thought this thread would be blowing up with RA-Tech appreciation seeing as how they now offer a metal part 27 :o

 

From yesterdays front page headlines;

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@ intinerious : The o-rings adds about 2,5 mm thickness, a bit more than ur card mod I think, the o-rings are made of firm rubber... well lets just see how it goes . I used the same mod for my L85, so that the small springs don't damage the bolt carrier.

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@ intinerious : The o-rings adds about 2,5 mm thickness, a bit more than ur card mod I think, the o-rings are made of firm rubber... well lets just see how it goes . I used the same mod for my L85, so that the small springs don't damage the bolt carrier.

 

If it's a firm piece of rubber it should hold since the length of the recoil guide assembly is bound to shift in length when the bolt is in action (because of the rubber buffer at the back). If your mod were to fail I would think it would be due to the metal piece that the rubber buffer attaches onto breaking at the flanges because of the gap between the metal and rubber piece due to your o-rings whereas my card mod covers up where you'll have the gap (...if you get what I mean? :P). But the recoil guide metal plate uses a CNC'd piece so your mod should have no problems :D

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This maybe an odd question, but what kind of slings do you guys use? I've got a Magpul sling but the mounting points arent big enough for it...

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This maybe an odd question, but what kind of slings do you guys use? I've got a Magpul sling but the mounting points arent big enough for it...

 

Paracord loop both the rear and front sling (I did it on the left side of my scar) then you'll be able to run the magpul sling.

 

But then quick detaching the slings become a problem since the paracord loops get caught up on the sling mounting points.

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Well..

I bought My Scar when they first hit the market and like many the hinge plate when so I went about and got that upgraded to a metal one then after a few more mags the sling connector [part 27] cracked. So again I went about and made a metal one from scratch since I know how to CNC it wasn't that hard but very tiresome and from popular demand I have made a few for other people too but ever since then I have had no problems with my gun.

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I have a question about my WE SCAR. I was shooting it the other day, and it stopped feeding. I opened it up to find part #59 loose inside. I figured how everything goes back together. My question is in the RA-TECH videos there is plastic spacer that goes on the rod. I can't find this piece. Do I need it to use the gun or will it work fine without it?

 

Thanks

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I have a question about my WE SCAR. I was shooting it the other day, and it stopped feeding. I opened it up to find part #59 loose inside. I figured how everything goes back together. My question is in the RA-TECH videos there is plastic spacer that goes on the rod. I can't find this piece. Do I need it to use the gun or will it work fine without it?

 

Thanks

 

Can you take a picture?

 

Also, I shimmed my bolt catch on both sides with 0.1mm SHS shims on each side. I think that helps with making sure the bolt catch from disengaging by itself when you forcefully slam a loaded mag into the gun. Not sure if any of you guys have had issues with the bolt catch disengaging especially when the interface between the catch and the bolt have some grease between it.

 

Currently I've DIY'd the following:

 

1. Credit card pieces between the rubber buffer and recoil rod plate. This is used to prevent the bolt from moving too far back when the rubber buffer is compressed so that the hammer bearing goes over the lip of the bolt; damaging the pot metal parts.

 

2. Piece of ABS Plastic Card (0.5mm thick) glued under the bolt catch mechanism. This is to allow the bolt catch to be fully engaged once the mag is empty. The stock bolt catch movement was only half of which was capable on the gun, leading to the bolt catch engaging the bolt at half the surface area.

 

3. Shimmed (using AEG shims) both sides of the bolt catch by 0.1mm. This further reduces side-to-side movement of the bolt catch when the bolt engages it; allows a more positive lock by the bolt catch in conjunction with the above mod.

 

I can't get sorbothane here in HK; but has anyone who suffered with broken stock hinge issues ever tried to glue a 1/8" thick, 70 durometer sorbothane padding behind the rubber buffer that it comes with; or even completely replacing the rubber buffer with a sorbothane piece? I would think a piece of sorbothane would reduce the stresses on the stock hinge tremendously, that should prevent your hinges from cracking or at least reduce the frequency of the cracks.

 

I still have another problem with the SCAR though. The roller bearing on the hammer has a pin that locks it on the hammer. Because of the pot metal hammer used with the steel pin; the pin will eventually wear down the holes on the hammer and will start to pop out and screw up the function of the roller bearing. As far as I can tell the only fix is to get an RATECH part; but the RATECH trigger set is half the price of the SCAR itself here in Hong Kong. I'll be replacing the trigger set in the future anyway (I want the correct trigger for the SCAR rather than the M4 one) but it's pretty cost prohibitive right now considering I have other airsoft projects ongoing at the moment. With that fixed I can at least use the SCAR for a much longer time before I need to replace anything.

 

EDIT: About the trigger shimming...it might not be 0.2mm total for you guys should you choose to do it. I found that a total of 0.2mm of shimming was JUST enough to allow a free bolt catch movement without the bolt catch sticking in any position. I tried with a total of .25mm before; it was too tight with that extra 0.05mm of shimming. Try to put the shims on both sides of the trigger....though I think if you put them all on the LHS or RHS it shouldn't really matter.

Edited by intinerious

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A couple of weeks ago i invested in 10 CO2 mags.I bought the Mag kits from RA Tech to convert the mags from the Closed bolt to Open bolt version.So far all seems ok.I'm working with a local retailer & giving him feedback so he can help his customers in the future. This whole thread is a shortcut on my desk top for when/if i start having problems.

My next buy really ough to be a chrono,i have an NPAS fitted in my SCAR & no real idea of how to reduce the FPS.

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A couple of weeks ago i invested in 10 CO2 mags.I bought the Mag kits from RA Tech to convert the mags from the Closed bolt to Open bolt version.So far all seems ok.I'm working with a local retailer & giving him feedback so he can help his customers in the future. This whole thread is a shortcut on my desk top for when/if i start having problems.

My next buy really ough to be a chrono,i have an NPAS fitted in my SCAR & no real idea of how to reduce the FPS.

 

There's a vid on RATECH on how to adjust NPAS on the WE open bolt guns, but they can also be applied to the TM GBB pistols. What you need to do, as the floating valve can turn inside the nozzle thus just sticking the wrench in to turn it is futile, you'll need to use a small screw-driver, preferably a flat-head I suppose and place it through the opening where the gas goes IN the nozzle and make it hold the NPAS still. Then, use the wrench to adjust the NPAS position.

 

Initial problems I've had with the gun is that the front metal block that holds the barrel in place will strip it's threads if you aggressively tighten the screws and not aligning them perfect when you tighten the screw after disassembly. Being the person I am I always break my airsoft guns into pieces before I reassemble everything...I disassembled the gun around 10 times and the screws near the gas block end aren't locking into the metal block thingy anymore.

 

Second problem is that sometimes the blowback exerts so much force on the rubber buffer on the recoil rod that the whole assembly is compressed when the gun is being cycled; leading to the bolt moving too far back and allowing the hammer to ride over the 'lips' of the bolt. This will jam the bolt backwards as a result and will damage your bolt and your nozzle. The method I used to fix it was to shove a few pieces of credit-card plastic between the rubber buffer and the recoil guide rear plate, I think I detailed it a few pages back.

 

Third problem I found is that sometimes the bolt catch does not engage 100% positively. What I did was to get a thin piece of ABS plastic and superglue it under the metal bit where it engages the mag thingy that pops up once the mag is empty. The thickness is around 0.5mm. See a few pages back for pics. Then I also shimmed the bolt catch today so that even if I slam a mag into the gun with the bolt held open, the bolt catch will not disengage itself as a result (which happened before my ABS plastic mod...the shimming of the bolt catch just made it 'better').

 

Oh and screw down the bolt on the bolt 'rail' thing where your charging handle goes into. The recoil WILL loosen the bolt screws over time and once that happens you'll get jams and damage your bolt and maybe even the nozzle. Besides tightening the screws down REALLY tightly I also added a tiny drop of temporary threadlock just to be sure.

 

 

As for internal upgrades there's the RATECH trigger. For the bolt I recommend the GunsModify variation, it externally looks more realistic, is cheaper than the RATECH bolt and from what I've heard the RATECH bolt gives a very sluggish performance whilst the GunsModify bolt (which is lighter) works perfectly fine.

 

I also suggest tightening down the rear sight aperture thingy which locks the adjustment dial for the height of the rear sight. That thing likes to shake loose too (same with the front sight) and it's a pain to fix once it gets loose and a ball bearing comes loose; springs getting damaged, etc.

 

OHHH YEAH and one more thing :P You'll need to check whether your stock can positively lock on the 2-5 increments. A lot of the SCARs can't positively lock and if you have it in any of those positions while pressing the gun against your shoulder/chest or when firing the gun you might get a nice pinch on the cheek when the stock collapses and your cheek is wedged between the collapsable part of the stock and the shell that surrounds it. The way to fix that part is to open up the rear stock plate and use pilers to bend the metal to shape such that you can get positive engagement while still be able to adjust the stock. I think someone has a tutorial in this thread with the info.

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I have already downloaded the video so it's on file already,however i can't check the FPS because i don't have a Chrono.Not having my own Chrono is becoming such a pig *albatross* bind that i'm going to have to get myself one & start keeping logs of all my guns.It means i can check my WE SCAR FPS after i've altered the NPAS.

I'll be looking over my gun & checking for loose bits.It's a shame i don't have a chrono because i'm playing CQB indoors this weekend & my SCAR would sound awesome inside if it was legal.

Edited by rolling-thunder

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Can you take a picture?

 

Here's a picture of the parts I do have. I'm pretty sure I lost a small spacer that is mentioned in the RA-TECH videos.

 

IMG_0087.jpg

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Here's a picture of the parts I do have. I'm pretty sure I lost a small spacer that is mentioned in the RA-TECH videos.

 

*pic*

 

Ah, that should be from a closed bolt system right? Sorry dude ><;, my only experience is with the open bolt. Perhaps someone else can help :)

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Ah, that should be from a closed bolt system right? Sorry dude ><;, my only experience is with the open bolt. Perhaps someone else can help :)

Yep, closed bolt. So if i buy the open bolt conversion kit will it come with a new air nozzle and piston?

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I'm getting one of these soon, the kick looks insane with the steel bolt even on green gas, I can only imagine what it is like with CO2. Does anyone know how badly this beats up the internals? I'd imagine a steel bolt and CO2 would destroy everything rather quickly, does anyone know if this is the case?

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So my buddy just bought a WE Scar, against my opinion(he is new to airsoft, and I know nothing of the WE system). Still one hell of a slick gun, everything seemed to function a-ok. The hopup however, did not seem to work. No matter how far I adjusted the dial the .2s(I told him to buy atleast .28s) just would not float. Does the hop rubber need to break in or something?

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So my buddy just bought a WE Scar, against my opinion(he is new to airsoft, and I know nothing of the WE system). Still one hell of a slick gun, everything seemed to function a-ok. The hopup however, did not seem to work. No matter how far I adjusted the dial the .2s(I told him to buy atleast .28s) just would not float. Does the hop rubber need to break in or something?

 

It's on a VSR/AEG mixed system, being that the hop rubber itself is VSR type and there is an AEG nub that presses against it. Other than your friend somehow doesn't know how to adjust the hop up (you said he's a newbie, could happen) the only other way is either there's too much oil on the bucking to provide insufficient friction for the spin or the nub is missing :P

 

I'd tell him to clean the barrel assembly first with alcohol (that removes oils right? I generally disassemble everything and wash it in warm water and detergent but I'd think that's a bit too much for your friend unless he's willing to learn how to disassemble the gun) and readjust the hop up to see if it works. Otherwise if that doesnt do it then a barrel disassembly will be required to see if the nub is missing in the hop up or if anything is broken.

 

Before your friend really goes rough with the gun I suggest he browse the last 10 pages of this thread. Should have all my DIY fixes to make sure the gun doesn't break :)

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I'd suggest just going ahead and dissassembling the front assembly of the gun and cleaning out the hop with a clean rag - I tend to avoid alchohol and other substances like it from touching the rubber parts of the hop. Also, anyone know how long the extended barrel that Airsoft Buddy sells is? I'm looking to convert this thing into the longer barreled version.

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I have just converted to Open Bolt and found the FPS to be low (approx 290) and the blowkback sluggish after converting my CO2 mags.

 

I thought it was the weapon itself but today I received two off-the-shelf Open bolt mags and now I need an NPAS! The block action is very lively/ hard and FPS a little on the high side.

 

What could be wrong with my CO2 mags that I've converted??? I'm at a bit of a loss!

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