Pureownage Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Two words: Epic Win Link to post Share on other sites
-FIDO- Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 lovely work, really really one of the best vss replicas seen till now! btw hamerite will give you the effect the real scope has... Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 Awesome, another great RC build! And the best part about seeing it finished? Knowing youll get back to your sks build now lol. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2010 Thanks a bunch! But still not done, have to do the iron sights and butt pad. Hammer finish was really what I was looking for, but was out of stock at the time. To do the sandblasted finish: -lay 2-3 coats primer or your basic color which is silver in this case -let dry and apply same color but really far away and in thin brisk strokes so the vapor starts to get tacky even before it hits the surface, about 2ft, this will make a rough surface -let dry for 15 min then apply the same technique as the previous but with flat black. How dark you want it depends on how much black you put on. Do this alternate layer about 2x or until the desired texture and shade is achieved. I'll be getting back on the SKS shortly, but don't expect to be finishing it too soon what with people wanting me to make VSS's for them too. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 Finally done! Butt pad and iron sights installed and receiver finish improved on by rubbing on silicone oil. To those asking for plans, I don't know if I could do one in detail since I don't know CAD, but I'll see if I could scan the template I drew up and just insert the dimensions. Thanks to everyone for looking and the helpful suggestions! and a comparison shot, real vs replica Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 Pritty *fruitcage* good work there!! Well done Renegade! Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 Link to post Share on other sites
Bersy Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 OMG RC AWESOME! Great work mate Link to post Share on other sites
Scout03 Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 Awesome work, And to think its mainly all PVC Can you show us how you make the PVC pipe into sheets please. (photos rather than words) Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted December 14, 2010 Report Share Posted December 14, 2010 ^Seconded. Absolutely amazing job. I still cant get over your skillz. Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 last i checked, he gets the PVC in both pipes and sheets. but i could have missed something. oh yeah, and good *fruitcage* work there RC!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Triggerhappychappy Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 Not 'alf bad that, great work dude. Link to post Share on other sites
Retro-Cow Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 That looks freakin amazing! I don't know how you shaped that upper so well! Link to post Share on other sites
Scout03 Posted December 15, 2010 Report Share Posted December 15, 2010 last i checked, he gets the PVC in both pipes and sheets. but i could have missed something. oh yeah, and good *fruitcage* work there RC!!! I thought i read somewhere he flattened PVC pipe, But i cannot remember where i read that. So i may have been mistaken. Anyway great work on it, Would love to see specs of this to attempt making one myself Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Thanks! Yeah, I still make them out of pipe. And to those who asked, I got pics of the process albeit no flame. Get your pipe and cut a section off. The size of the sheet will be determined by the length of the section and the circumference of the pipe. Thickness goes along with the size of pipe usually, the larger the thicker. Cut along the side of the pipe (one on left is cut, but hard to see). Or in cases of much larger pipe (left) it would be easier to cut it in half completely on both sides. You need flat boards to squish the softened tubes, sand them smooth because any defects will reflect on the sheet you're pressing. Before heating the pvc, clean off all burrs and dirt because these will show as pits if they're included in the press. For tubes, I just hold it with a pipe. Splayed out tubes or odd shaped cuts, I hold with tongs. Keep the piece about 6" above the flame to keep from burning. It's important to keep the part moving because pvc is a very bad conductor of heat. If you just heat one part, the heat won't travel out across the whole piece and you'll just end up burning it. That said burning pvc will emit harmful gasses like HCl so keep a window open or use a mask rated for "organic compounds of low toxicity". It's not as bad as it sounds, just don't be impatient and stick the pvc into the flame until it turns black. After you've made sure that the part is evenly heated (the parts pictured above take approx 2 mins of constantly juggling around over the flame to heat evenly) and soft enough to manipulate, pry the tube open over the one side of your press and sandwich it with the other. Halved pieces of pipe are easier to squish. I stand on the press until the heated piece cools enough to hold shape. The reason why I stand on it is that it keeps me from having to lug weights on and off the press and I could just stand on it while I heat the next piece in preparation. By the time the current piece being heated is soft enough, the part being pressed would have cooled already. edit: btw, Meathead was able to cook up a process to use an electric stove instead of a gas one. This makes heating parts evenly much easier as you could control the temp setting, but will limit you in the side of parts to be heated. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 That's beautiful really beautiful .... You should be proud. I'm speechless , amazing. Well done!! Link to post Share on other sites
.50 Cal Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 RC, that is freaking awesome buddy!!! I might drop you a pm in March next year to enquire about getting one built out of interest what adhesive do you use? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Thanks. I use Greco 888, an industrial cyanoacrylic. Can't find anywhere else that sells it other than here, but I'm sure alternatives exist. People here near practically worship the stuff, even has a facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/pages/GRECO-888/213571164112. Link to post Share on other sites
Scout03 Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Thanks! Yeah, I still make them out of pipe. And to those who asked, I got pics of the process albeit no flame. Many thanks Im going to have a go at making some things when i have 5 minutes spare Link to post Share on other sites
gopeder111 Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 You are a plastic GOD Keep up the great work, it's incredible what you can do with some plastic and a couple tools Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Gobsmackingly superb job RC Is PVC sheet hard to find in your part of the world then? .50 Cal PVC pipe 'cement' is very good, and cheap. Just look in the plumbing section of any DIY/Hardware shop. It works by melting the surface of the plastic slightly so the parts actually fuse together, like welding metal. Once it's set fully, the parts effectively become one continuous piece, you'd never get them apart again. It works well on the plastics used for Airsoft parts too. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 Is PVC sheet hard to find in your part of the world then? At least not in the dimensions and durability I need them for. Or I'm not looking hard enough. Only ones I find are only suitable to make ID cards. Link to post Share on other sites
.50 Cal Posted December 16, 2010 Report Share Posted December 16, 2010 .50 Cal PVC pipe 'cement' is very good, and cheap. Just look in the plumbing section of any DIY/Hardware shop. It works by melting the surface of the plastic slightly so the parts actually fuse together, like welding metal. Once it's set fully, the parts effectively become one continuous piece, you'd never get them apart again. It works well on the plastics used for Airsoft parts too. Cheers Doc, now all I've got to do is move house so I have a workshop!!!!! MWA HA HA HA!! Link to post Share on other sites
Slayer750 Posted December 19, 2010 Report Share Posted December 19, 2010 Great stuff, renegade. Very professionally made! Link to post Share on other sites
DUFF MAN Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Amazing work. This is one of the reasons I enjoy airsoft so much. Theres the skirmishing side of it, then theres the DIY/creative side of it. Keep up the good work, and let me know if your planning on making conversion kits Link to post Share on other sites
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