renegadecow Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I can't remove it though and can't degrease the area between the gaps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 I had a hammer from them fail in exactly the same place. I emailed them and they replaced it for me for free. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 That is kind of an odd choice to make that part? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 (edited) The cracking is most likely due too the weld hardening too fast, which leads to brittleness of the joint, and shrinkage that increases likelyhood of cracking. A new hammer just needs to be heated it up with a propane torch just before it gets red hot, and re-temper in oil. Wondering if its possible to convert the WE AKS74U into a BIZON? Edited July 20, 2016 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 At any rate, hammering it tight and staking the sides seems to have worked. If it develops some wobble again in time I'll have it welded. Re Bison, you're better off starting with a Bison as converting the AKS74U receiver will be a nightmare having to reposition the front trunnion and all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Fixed another Hephaestus set with a hammer. Ironic considering their logo. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 One other thing I found with the HP sets is that their full auto sear has too much material on the bit that interacts with the bolt, leading to inconsistent full auto as the hammer falls before the bolt is fully in battery. Taking about 1-2mm off it in the right place makes all the difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
machgo Posted August 4, 2016 Report Share Posted August 4, 2016 One other thing I found with the HP sets is that their full auto sear has too much material on the bit that interacts with the bolt, leading to inconsistent full auto as the hammer falls before the bolt is fully in battery. Taking about 1-2mm off it in the right place makes all the difference. Could you elaborate on that please? After installing the kit, my full auto is pitiful. It is especially bad when combined with the WE short stroke kit--BBs basically just spit out the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 I'll post pictures when I get back from holiday. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 5, 2016 Report Share Posted August 5, 2016 IIRC the surface of the auto sear facing the hammer is a bit fat and at a wider angle so that pressure from the hammer defeats it causing irregular strikes to the valve. You'll need to file the angle back so it positively engages the hammer and that pressure from the hammer just locks it up even more. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ST19AG_WGreymon Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 How many skirmishes do you think a stock WE AK would last on semi-auto only? Other than the RA-Tech steel internals set, what other longevity upgrades are recommended? It seems that I can at least add a rear bolt buffer and a pad on the hammer as seen in the last few posts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
icolater Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 Replace with OEM parts when they break, so you won't have to deal with the hassle. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 Average for the hammer to break is 2k rounds. With the rubber buffer I was able to stretch mine a little further than that before the disconnector broke. I do not advise getting the RATech kit. If you can't find Hephaestus you may as well just keep replacing them with stock parts since they're cheap enough. There's also a kit by WE but haven't seen those in person. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ST19AG_WGreymon Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 I did hear about the Hephaestus kit. I'm having trouble finding it though. Thanks for the input guys. This is my first GBB rifle after playing with AEGs for a while. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ro de Boer Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 I had a stock hammer it is has been okay for About 15000 shots! And that is pretty good for a stock hammer, i think going through manny reviews, maybe a lucky hammer. My firing pin broke first, i could get an new one from hepheastus, it was a drop in. Then the hammer spring broke, i had some springsteel and made my own. Recently i did some maintenance on my AK and when i polished the hammer i found a tiny crack, barly visable close to the mounting axle. Better replace while it stillworks. I have been searching for a replacement and ended up in Hongkong for a steel WE made hammer. I will keep you guy's updated on my experience with this part. Any other brands were hard/impossible to get. I contacted kyairsoft.com the made a very good offer and decent shipping to Holland. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alias1983 Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 I thought we was making steel AK kits or new models with steel? I find it strange how much my stock wem4 went through and many AKs won't last a mag. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ST19AG_WGreymon Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 Does anyone spot any changes to the internals with this pic? Or should I go ahead and order the RA-Tech stuff now. XD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
machgo Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 The RA Tech parts kit has received some bad press for fitment issues. The Hephaestus set goes in pretty easy, though I did have to buff some tooling marks out with emery cloth. And I also picked up a wonky issue with full auto, but I'm not positive that it's from the parts kit... You might as well order the parts--the hammer will fail. To my under-educated eye, the parts in the pic look stock to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted August 24, 2016 Report Share Posted August 24, 2016 (edited) I have both sets, installed 3-4 years ago. Both the RA tech disconnector and the hephaetus disconnector had issues. Hephaetus disconnector wouldn't fit the hephaetus hammer, while the RA tech disconnector would jam up with the hammer when the bolt travel backwards and the trigger was pulled fully, as angle of the disconnector cut was incorrect. If the trigger was lightly pulled the hammer would slip past the disconnector and work, but if the trigger was pulled fully the hammer would hit the disconnector and fail to work. Of course the other thing is the Hephaetus hammer finishing is unrefined, hence there are still cut marks from the CNC process where that wears the bolt carrier, that just requires sanding. Edited August 24, 2016 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ST19AG_WGreymon Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 I can't find the Hephaestus parts anywhere, so it seems like RA-Tech is the only option. I'll definitely keep an eye on fitment issues. I may purchase extra springs as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) I have both sets, installed 3-4 years ago. Both the RA tech disconnector and the hephaetus disconnector had issues. Hephaetus disconnector wouldn't fit the hephaetus hammer, while the RA tech disconnector would jam up with the hammer when the bolt travel backwards and the trigger was pulled fully, as angle of the disconnector cut was incorrect. If the trigger was lightly pulled the hammer would slip past the disconnector and work, but if the trigger was pulled fully the hammer would hit the disconnector and fail to work. Of course the other thing is the Hephaetus hammer finishing is unrefined, hence there are still cut marks from the CNC process where that wears the bolt carrier, that just requires sanding. Had that on my RA Tech _built_ WE AK74UN with RA steel internals... :| You know things are not right when the thing has issues even when it is straight from the manufacturer/installer of the stuff... I fixed mine by shortening the two prong legs on the "thingy" (can't recall if it's the trigger, hammer or disconnector...) and adjusting the angle of my selector plate thingy a bit. Edited August 25, 2016 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ro de Boer Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) After ten days my steel hammer and Firing Pin Delay Stop arrived yesteday. Both parts made by WE i installed then today and it was a allmost smooth fit. The Firing Pin Delay Stop had to be sanded just a little bit with very fine grain sandpaper. I had some double shots on single shot, but i blame this on the parts that having to brake in. For now Im happy with these parts. A bit strange to me that non of you guy's have tried brand own parts, what is that? I'll post photo's of the parts, you guy's using hepheastus or RaTech can tell if they look the same. Greetz Edited August 25, 2016 by Ro de Boer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted August 25, 2016 Report Share Posted August 25, 2016 (edited) I always thought the WE steel parts were just like second rate QC RA Tech parts for whatever reason I mean, how many companies can make steel internals for the same rifle. And WE price is close to RA parts too so. I dunno. Edited August 25, 2016 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 My 74u finally hit the 70k mark on stock internals. Seems all that is needed is some small buffer on the hammer like Renegade mentioned a couple years back. I used a sorbo pad on mine and glued an eraser to buffer the bolt. Wear is minimal. I use a pencil and rub graphite on my hammer and sears to smooth out the action instead of lube, and maybe that helped a bit, but it probably didn't. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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