FW200 Posted April 24, 2006 Report Share Posted April 24, 2006 Some Ak pictures : Pictures courtesy of my teammate SPB. FPS results: -ICS: 305 fps -CA: 330 fps -G&G: 315 fps All tested with Tokyo Marui 0.20g white. Link to post Share on other sites
FW200 Posted April 24, 2006 Report Share Posted April 24, 2006 Some more: Link to post Share on other sites
systema Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 FW200, nice comparison pics. Which do you believe is most accurate to the real steel (trademarks aside), as in dimension wise? Also, if you don't mind asking, which one do you actualy prefer over the others, if any particular one? Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticMag Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 veilside, I want to kill you now. I'd go for the G&G, btw. Link to post Share on other sites
Zune Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 no opinions? is it so bad?? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I think it looks good mate. Link to post Share on other sites
veilside Posted April 25, 2006 Report Share Posted April 25, 2006 eh thx now i feel better Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted April 26, 2006 Report Share Posted April 26, 2006 used one of these to make one of these so i can make some of these (aksu style cocking lever) (test cast in unfiled resin to check mould shape and shrinkage, will need to dig some harder casting resin out to do a final one) Link to post Share on other sites
InfernoGmbH Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 My girl & my gun... Old and new AK's with the Benelli grip. Experimental "EVIL" camo, complete with flames, skulls, and bodies on sticks... Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticMag Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Not my style. But hey, to each their own. Link to post Share on other sites
HKG36 Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Experimental "EVIL" camo, complete with flames, skulls, and bodies on sticks... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Why did you put a FN FAL grip on it why? Link to post Share on other sites
SACSlym Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Not my style. But hey, to each their own. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Not a fan of the ladys eh? Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticMag Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 Eh, she's not my style either. Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 omg.. have you modded your Kasumi? (or am I getting confused with your M3? ) god.. been ages since seen you on forums Inferno.. let alone arnies ! :| Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 My mates 47S. Full Systema tune up kit (M1##) Guarder wood kit, scope mount, 6.03 650mm barrel, reinforced g/box. Link to post Share on other sites
InfernoGmbH Posted April 27, 2006 Report Share Posted April 27, 2006 HKG36: Because I had one laying around and wanted to see if I could... isn't that the purpose of all modding? Wege: Kasumi was the Benelli; she got chopped super short, then became a parts gun before being upgraded with a new spring, tightbores, and a few other bits. She's about six years old, you know... Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 (edited) VFC now with real aksu wood grips fitted, plum G&P midcap and the black pistol grip dyed plum edit image a bit on big size lol Edited April 28, 2006 by snorkelman Link to post Share on other sites
Shroomalistic Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 Finished my akms and almost done with my akm Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 29, 2006 Report Share Posted April 29, 2006 Not the most interesting shots, but I have little in the way of russain/chinese accessories to use, so I'll get better shots later: Snorkel, how did you die your grip plum? I would love to do the same. And where did you find the proper real AK furniture? Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 (edited) And then there were two how are you finding it in use? I take it yours is final production version (51xxx serial rather than 50xxx one)? Any noticeale differences from one i reviewed? eg does bolt still tilt inwards if theres no battery in the gun, and is there any difference to outer barrel? ..I was told a change was to be made to outer barrel on retail ones to make production easier, so Im wondering if its still pinned in place like real one/prerelease were, or actually screws in place now? real furniture on mine is a borrow from my deact till i source a couple of sets the lower grip is close enough fit to be a drop in replacement. The real upper needed a little work Each end of the upper grip has an arched lip that runs along the ends and fits inside the gas block end caps - on real one these were 28mm wide, on VFC they were 26mm 5 mins with a dremmel and sanding attachment shaves a mm off the surface of the lip and lets it fit into the VFC gas tube (fitting the upper is same as a real one - to remove the wood piece you rotate it 180 degrees so it comes out of the gas tube end caps, and fiting is same in reverse - line lips up with end caps and rotate 180 degrees into place) dyeing the pistol grip dylon multi-purpose dye 'bordeaux; (equivalent type of dye in states is made by RIT but I dont know if RIT have an exact match for the bordeaux colour - most lilely its the 'wine' colour dye they sell) 2 quid for the dylon in UK, I think the RIT is 2 dollars in states one capsule of powdered dye in a pint of boiling water (ideally degrease the grip first but I just chucked mine straight in) keep the pot of dye on the stove at a simmer style heat and keep moving the part around when you lift the grip out of the dye it'll turn a horrendous gold/bronze colour Rinse the part in cold water and it'll go proper colour final colour is a very dark brown/plum colour If you want a shiny plum grip rather than a matte effect then polish the plastic to a smooth gloss finish (and remove any polish thouroughly) before dyeing it. You only get one shot at dyeing it - go back for a second shot at dyeing it and the grip will turn almost pure black in colour. same method should be true for the VFC bakelite mag outer shell (you'ld need a bigger pot and say 2 pints of dye to cover it) BUT!! I havent got a bakelite here at mo to try it on (my retail AKSU was supposed to be in this week but wont be here till middle of next week at least now) If you'ld rather not end up with a screaming pink/blotchy purple mag hold off till I try that on my one first edit spelling (woops) stevie Edited April 30, 2006 by snorkelman Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 (edited) Snorkelman I agree 100% with your review. Bolt is still loose, but not really a problem unless you pull upwards as you pull it back sans battery. And it's not hard to get back on track, so it's not too big a deal in my book. Handguards are also rough on the sides, could use a sanding/refinishing, though they look/feel very nice on the bottom. Top handguard can be removed even with a battery in. . . not sure if that's different, but I think in the review you noted: " . . .allowing you to remove the upper hand guard if there’s no stick battery in the gun" Outer barrel also appears to be pinned, but I haven't tried to pull the pin yet, so I'm not sure. The stock is not rolled. I'm curious if you know if this is directly replacable with a real one? I have an 8.4 1200mah that I just fully charged, and my ROF is pretty nice. Surprising for the 8.4, which leads me to believe a weaker spring is used in production, but I'm not sure as I haven't had a chance to actually shoot it yet. Hopefully I'll get up to AEX soon and chrono it. And yes, there's loads of space inside. Overall, I'm very pleased with this, especially all the attention to detail. The use of real steel style handguard retention, the use of actual rivets rather than molded lumps, all the thought that went into keeping the insides clean, and the overall finish is quite nice (though it'll look better when it gets a little *fruitcage*ed up ) My only beef with this gun so far, is that I really have to push to get the top cover to lock in fully. I can close it, and it will latch enough to keep it closed for a bit, but in order to get it to fully latch, I have to give it an extra push, otherwise after a few minutes, or after I fire a couple rounds, the top will just fly open and hit me in the face. . . shut up, it's not funny! But honestly, if that's the worst thing about this gun, Dear Lord, it's the best AEG out of the box I've seen yet (again, can't speak to internals yet). oh ya, and * 91 051076 Edited April 30, 2006 by Guest Link to post Share on other sites
ColSanders Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Ooh... sexiful.... I'll cry the day someone puts a Psop on one... Link to post Share on other sites
snorkelman Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 (edited) woops me bad on top handguard - you're right it can be removed with battery still in Force of habit - I was taking it apart at same time as real one so I expect I just pulled the battery out automatically, as though it was the boltcarrier/gas-piston on real one Like you say they should clean up a lot with a bit of sanding and a restain n varnish rolled stock from real one will fit with modifications you just need to cut the rear of it to match shape of the airsoft ones If you lock stock to side of rifle and look at rear of it it the hinge at rear has an L shape to it. The long part of the L that the pin goes thru isn't as tall on airsoft version and same goes for the horizontal part of the L (real one is double the height on that section as it doesnt have rear of a mechbox to clear) Hinge pin used on airsoft one is narrower too so Id sleeve the hole on the real one (best modding the hole on real stock's hinge than trying to open up hole on airsoft receiver to take the fatter pin) top cover on mine clips on no probs, Im wondering if its maybe battery related? eg if battery is fitted so that the wire running along the pack is at 12 or 6 o'clock rather than along one side of the pack at 5 or 7 oclock, the pack just migth be tall enough then that the domed rivets holding rear sight onto top cover are pressing against the pack and putting top cover under tension the whole time? Would explain why it takes an extra bit of oomph to get top cover down far enough for the latch to fully engage on guarder kit you can adjust how far forwards/back the end of the receiver cover sits in relation to the lower and then tighten it down with a grub screw under the barrel - put it too far back and the latch barely catches, but on VFC it uses a thru-pin to locate it like real one ,-which means the position is pretty much fixed and should rule that out as a reason (as a sidenote the pin VFC used on mine for that is a loose sliding fit - careful it doesnt fall out if lower handguard is removed and rifle laid on its side) stevie Edited April 30, 2006 by snorkelman Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 nah, not a battery problem. Nothing is actually getting in the way of it closing, it's just a tight fit, which I actually like. I just have to be conscious to close it fully when I want to start shooting. No biggie. Link to post Share on other sites
t3hDesertFox Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Not finished yet, still need barrel and bipod, and handguards. But... Woot. Link to post Share on other sites
Nessie Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Could you PM or something the wood measurements you used to make that? Also, what wood did you use? Link to post Share on other sites
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