WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

[Horsem4n]

awesome, barrels are 10 bucks and hop up rubbers are 1.50.

[AustinWolv]

Adding a second o-ring was/is a popular mod on the SHOEI Escort systems.

 

It helps maintain consistent FPS in full auto.

 

The escort system (or the WE modifed escort system) is powerful in semi - but FPS drops considerably in full auto.

 

Cutting in a second o-ring helps to correct this.

 

A redesigned airshaft also fixed the problem, as trialed and implemented on SP M16s out of Escort's shop.

 

[Carsten]

those are the 6.02mm "chrome" barrels, correct?

[trinco]

emm... RA-Tech is designing a 3 round burst trigger set for WE M4!

 

[redline]

emm... RA-Tech is designing a 3 round burst trigger set for WE M4!

 

 

 

SAWEEET!! Before you guys flame him, watch the whole video. Its announced for the WE (not just WA) at the end.

[yehaw]

i've been waiting for this :-)

[Nazio]

emm... RA-Tech is designing a 3 round burst trigger set for WE M4!

 

 

will see

Edited April 8, 2009 by Nazio

[jkpics]

Nice, might be cool to mess with.

Edited April 8, 2009 by jkpics

[1st Commando]

do you read previous posts at all ?

 

As he pointed out it says WE at the end of the video

 

 

[Victory]

So, pre-order the CO2 version, and be the guinea pig, or, wait awhile for user reports/reviews, until I'm confident in the purchase...

 

Decisions, decisions.

 

-Vic

[yehaw]

pre-order .. the gun is the same (except few small parts) and if the mag isn't working properly i am sure you will get a replacement ;-)

[wraithxt1]

Today just got the new design with Hop-Up inner barrels and the new hop-up rubbers. Also the Complete Upper Receiver Sets are available too.

 

For the new inner barrels, now just available at 363mm only. If you need 262mm, then we need to help to cut it from 363mm's inner barrels.

 

 

So this is the "new" hop that should solve all of our issues?

 

If I read this right, I just take out the old barrel and hop rubber, and slide these in and we're golden right?

[SirSavage]

I haven't seen anyone else mention this but please let me know if I'm mistaken.

 

Ahem, right now there are multiple ETA's for upcoming WE products listed on the Horizon Tactical website and the WE SCAR has an ETA of 4/30/2009.

 

 

I'm thinking this date is only for the pre-order but figured it couldn't hurt to share.

 

Has anything been said about this date being real, or is this nothing to get overly excited about?

 

 

 

[redline]

I haven't seen anyone else mention this but please let me know if I'm mistaken.

 

Ahem, right now there are multiple ETA's for upcoming WE products listed on the Horizon Tactical website and the WE SCAR has an ETA of 4/30/2009.

 

 

I'm thinking this date is only for the pre-order but figured it couldn't hurt to share.

 

Has anything been said about this date being real, or is this nothing to get overly excited about?

 

 

Yeah, I noticed it earlier...but $55 for the mags? cripes...that's kinda steep. Is it gonna be similar in price in HK?

[rottenotto]

im not sure whether u all notice this or not but LAT just uploaded some vids in youtube on how to install your LAT parts

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/Latparts

 

I just watched the piston head video.

 

Super glue to hold the o-ring guides in place? Whoa.......not cool.

 

I like how they addressed the problem of the piston head and 'op rod' getting so cold that it would stop moving - the metal got so cold it would stick. (Krytox helped this problem in my gun).

 

In this design, the 'op rod' is running through rubber o-rings as the guide - less metal to metal contact, so freezing will be less of an issue.

 

But supergluing them in place? No way. LAME.

Edited April 9, 2009 by rottenotto

[renegadecow]

Being overly impatient for the new hop to arrive I tried to modify my old one with a dremel which flew from my hand and into a pile of garbage never to be seen by the eyes of mortal men. For the past 12 hours I've been experimenting with different materials to use in place of the old and missing one and I've come across a very effective solution: glue gun.

 

I had to stick a screw driver (slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel, around 5.5mm) into the inner barrel first to prevent the excess glue from mucking up the inside as well as to mold a reversed "U" hop profile (similar to the one on my Tanaka .500 which has an incredibly stable hop). The hot glue is then squeezed on the recess for the hop rubber with some excess ontop.

 

Image of inside the inner barrel showing the profile of the injected hot glue after forming against the screw driver.

 

To clean the outside flush against the barrel, I used a cutter heated up by a candle so I could scrape away at the excess material without leaving any tool marks.

 

The end product looks as if it were cast directly from a mold.

 

I was able to test fire it for about 20 rounds by which time my stock part #42 (500fps version) broke so I had to stop. I did however notice the trajectory to be flat (set to 1/8 turn from zero) in all the 20 odd rounds I got to fire off; no more sever over-hop of the original first gen part. Opening it up again after testing, there were no signs of damage from use. As soon as my new nozzle arrives I'll test this further to see if I wouldn't have to buy the new hop and barrel design.

 

edit:

I forgot to mention I tried other stuff like rubber and silicon but both were too soft from the lack of material and would have the nub fold down and cause even more hop-up effect. The hot glue is more rigid and not as 'gripy' as the other two materials so the nub would slip over the bb and give it the right amount of spin.

Edited April 9, 2009 by renegadecow

[somegirls]

Does anybody have a clue why they didn't install the HU rubber in the first place?

What's the point of selling the barrel/HU and the rubber seperately?

 

Would be awesome íf anyone could write a guide on how to swap out the barrel.

Edited April 9, 2009 by somegirls

[trinco]

Does anybody have a clue why they didn't install the HU rubber in the first place?

What's the point of selling the barrel/HU and the rubber seperately?

 

This is because people will order some extra HU rubbers instead of one, that's why AB selling it separately. If i was u, i will order 1xInner Barrel and 2or3xHU Rubbers. If my new HU rubber goes wrong, Im not going to pay $1.50 + shipping or $10(Inner Barrel+HU rubber) + shipping just to get a new HU rubber. So i suggest if possible get some extra HU rubbers and AB should mark down the price to $1 each or maybe if u buy more than 1 piece u'll get $1 each, just a thought... who's with me?

[somegirls]

thanks, great advise!

 

I'm still confused.

 

Does the new barrel/hu include a new hop up chamber as well, or do I need to keep the old chamber/brass cylinder?

[Lupus78]

I just watched the piston head video.

Super glue to hold the o-ring guides in place? Whoa.......not cool.

I agree. Sounds weird. I just received this piston head from AB, but I'm not sure if I want to install it at all. I have it just in case. If the rod gets loose again I can only image what kind of damage this new piston head could do to the brass tube, since the o-ring doesn't cushion the impact. I also got one plastic rod tube stabilizer and the 7075 aluminum harging handle (which feels and looks great). With the stabilizer installed and tightening the #36 bolt I'll hopefully get the piston aligned and fixed properly and there will be no need for this piston head.

 

Does anybody have a clue why they didn't install the HU rubber in the first place?

What's the point of selling the barrel/HU and the rubber seperately?

I actually just ordered two hopup rubbers and one barrel from AB. The rubber is the most likely thing to need replacement. I also ordered the new trigger unit which hopefully solves my problems with full-auto. Also in my order is the 300fps steel nozzle which I'm hoping to modify higher (to around ~400fps) by cutting and filing some of the length of the rod, so that the inner valve can move more backward, like on 480fps version, but not as far.

 

Does the new barrel/hu include a new hop up chamber as well, or do I need to keep the old chamber/brass cylinder?

Only thing you need is the barrel and hopup rubber.

 

About changing the barrel... First take off the front grips and push the pin on front sight that holds the gas tube in place. Then slide the gas tube backwards towards body and you get it out of the front sight. Now pull it off the body. Then you need some large pliers (or the special tool for the barrel nut) to screw off the barrel nut (the one with the spiky edge) while holding the delta-ring back at the same time. The nut can be a tight one. After this the outer barrel should come off easily and you can slide also the hopup unit forward, out of the body (can also be tight in the body). There's also two pins in the hopup unit that you need to remove to dissassemble it. And watch out for the metal bearings that pushes the rubber. Maybe keep the hopup unit upside down during the change. Then you just assemble everything as it were. Did I forget anything?

Edited April 9, 2009 by Lupus78

[somegirls]

wow, thanks a lot!

 

I thought you could simply pull the innerbarrel out by losing some screws like with my old VFC Scar.

you rule mate!

Edited April 9, 2009 by somegirls

[WETTI]

I agree. Sounds weird. I just received this piston head from AB, but I'm not sure if I want to install it at all. I have it just in case. If the rod gets loose again I can only image what kind of damage this new piston head could do to the brass tube, since the o-ring doesn't cushion the impact. I also got one plastic rod tube stabilizer and the 7075 aluminum harging handle (which feels and looks great). With the stabilizer installed and tightening the #36 bolt I'll hopefully get the piston aligned and fixed properly and there will be no need for this piston head.

 

 

I actually just ordered two hopup rubbers and one barrel from AB. The rubber is the most likely thing to need replacement. I also ordered the new trigger unit which hopefully solves my problems with full-auto. Also in my order is the 300fps steel nozzle which I'm hoping to modify higher (to around ~400fps) by cutting and filing some of the length of the rod, so that the inner valve can move more backward, like on 480fps version, but not as far.

 

 

Only thing you need is the barrel and hopup rubber.

 

About changing the barrel... First take off the front grips and push the pin on front sight that holds the gas tube in place. Then slide the gas tube backwards towards body and you get it out of the front sight. Now pull it off the body. Then you need some large pliers (or the special tool for the barrel nut) to screw off the barrel nut (the one with the spiky edge) while holding the delta-ring back at the same time. The nut can be a tight one. After this the outer barrel should come off easily and you can slide also the hopup unit forward, out of the body (can also be tight in the body). There's also two pins in the hopup unit that you need to remove to dissassemble it. And watch out for the metal bearings that pushes the rubber. Maybe keep the hopup unit upside down during the change. Then you just assemble everything as it were. Did I forget anything?

*JUST A REMINDER: PLEASE REMEMBER TO SMOOTH OUT THE INSIDE OF THE BRASS HOUSING BEFORE INSTALLING YOU NEW HOP/BARREL UNIT. DISASSEMBLY MAY CAUSED SOME SPURS (@ THE PIN HOLES) INSIDE THE HOUSING & COULD VERY EASILY RUIN YOUR NEW HOP UP RUBBER SINCE THE FIT IS VERY SNUG. Otherwise, the swap should be piece of cake.

 

WETTI

Edited April 9, 2009 by WETTI

[WETTI]

Being overly impatient for the new hop to arrive I tried to modify my old one with a dremel which flew from my hand and into a pile of garbage never to be seen by the eyes of mortal men. For the past 12 hours I've been experimenting with different materials to use in place of the old and missing one and I've come across a very effective solution: glue gun.

 

I had to stick a screw driver (slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel, around 5.5mm) into the inner barrel first to prevent the excess glue from mucking up the inside as well as to mold a reversed "U" hop profile (similar to the one on my Tanaka .500 which has an incredibly stable hop). The hot glue is then squeezed on the recess for the hop rubber with some excess ontop.

 

 

Image of inside the inner barrel showing the profile of the injected hot glue after forming against the screw driver.

 

 

To clean the outside flush against the barrel, I used a cutter heated up by a candle so I could scrape away at the excess material without leaving any tool marks.

 

 

The end product looks as if it were cast directly from a mold.

 

 

I was able to test fire it for about 20 rounds by which time my stock part #42 (500fps version) broke so I had to stop. I did however notice the trajectory to be flat (set to 1/8 turn from zero) in all the 20 odd rounds I got to fire off; no more sever over-hop of the original first gen part. Opening it up again after testing, there were no signs of damage from use. As soon as my new nozzle arrives I'll test this further to see if I wouldn't have to buy the new hop and barrel design.

 

edit:

I forgot to mention I tried other stuff like rubber and silicon but both were too soft from the lack of material and would have the nub fold down and cause even more hop-up effect. The hot glue is more rigid and not as 'gripy' as the other two materials so the nub would slip over the bb and give it the right amount of spin.

 

I love & admire that DIY spirit!!

 

But yet I still want to recommend to you our soon-available 6.02mm 'mirror finish, chrome-plated' ultra precision inner...

[Net Ronin]

Hi WE ITT, Is "6.02mm 'mirror finish, chrome-plated' ultra precision inner" the same as the one on Airsoftbuddy? http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=270

[WETTI]

Hi WE ITT, Is "6.02mm 'mirror finish, chrome-plated' ultra precision inner" the same as the one on Airsoftbuddy? http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct...products_id=270

 

FYI, the chrome one has not been released yet.