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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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DYTAC STANDALONE UPPERS! CNC'd ALU!!1

 

I am now jealous of you WEM4 folk. Why can't WAM4 get standalone uppers?

Edited by slu

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Oh My God! The japanese have finally looked noticed us. My only concern is the price.

Now all i want is a Magpul Lower. Mmmmm....

Also an NPAS for the WE

And Ambi-selectors

And the great P Mag

AEG Hop and barrel

And my goddamn WE to work!

 

Does anyone know how to fix my non floating valve?

Edited by alston251

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I give up, I was going to try and read through and find the answer myself, but on page 55 after a couple of days I give up.

 

Does anyone know if using a spacer behind the nozzle ever worked with any degree of success in order to reduce fps?

 

Cheers for any help, or a nod to the right page number.

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Oh My God! The japanese have finally looked noticed us. My only concern is the price.

Now all i want is a Magpul Lower. Mmmmm....

Also an NPAS for the WE

And Ambi-selectors

And the great P Mag

AEG Hop and barrel

And my goddamn WE to work!

 

Does anyone know how to fix my non floating valve?

 

 

Could you give the part number of your "floating valve"?

 

If you have the white stabilizer remove it :P

 

I give up, I was going to try and read through and find the answer myself, but on page 55 after a couple of days I give up.

 

Does anyone know if using a spacer behind the nozzle ever worked with any degree of success in order to reduce fps?

 

Cheers for any help, or a nod to the right page number.

 

Yes it works. You can adjust with shims.

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Erm..... I really don't want to remove the white stabilizer. It seems working for fine now. Until the floating valve thinge got stuck.

 

It is the troublesome part 42.

 

I'll take apart the nozzle one Monday. Don't have time until then.

If it doesn't work. I got a warranty from armed forces.

But they are known for giving you extra parts that you don't need that will screw up your gun....

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I just had my nozzle changed due to the fact that I broke it, so I can tell you that it is indeed a very demanding procedure. Wei-Tech have, in all their wisdom, used super-strength loctite in order to keep the nozzle and associated parts in place. Thus you will need to heat the nozzle and guide rod up in order to remove the nozzle. Then simply replace it with a new spare part.

Although, if you wish to avoid all this work, you could simply a Uni-Directional Guide Rod with Locking Power Adjustment Knob from Airsoft123. Had I known of Airsoft123's existence when my nozzle broke, I would have chosen them over the retailer I choose instead. If you buy the Uni-Directional rod, all you need to do is remove ONE screw in order to install it.

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I got a question to the M16A3 owners:starting from the front end of the front sight, how long is the barrel(including the Flash hider) I'm planning on building a case for my guns(M4A1, KJ M9, 3 M9 mags, 10 M4 mags, and my upcoming WE M16A3 and upper set(wich is planned to be configured as a CQBR) Also, if I calculed right, it's 185mm. Could anyone confirm?

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I got a question to the M16A3 owners:starting from the front end of the front sight, how long is the barrel(including the Flash hider) I'm planning on building a case for my guns(M4A1, KJ M9, 3 M9 mags, 10 M4 mags, and my upcoming WE M16A3 and upper set(wich is planned to be configured as a CQBR) Also, if I calculed right, it's 185mm. Could anyone confirm?

 

I'm kind of confused... you want some measurements of the barrel from the end of the front sight, but you want me to include the flash hinder? :huh:

 

Anyways, I'll include a small sample of measurements which I hope will be of help:

 

From the tip of the flash hinder to the beginning of the front sight: 162mm.

28918170.jpg

 

Total length of barrel, from the tip of the flash hinder to the upper reciever: 533mm.

28918171.jpg

28918172.jpg

 

Length from the beginning of the front sight to the upper reciever: 369mm.

28918173.jpg

28918169.jpg

 

Let me know if it's what you wanted, or if there was anything else you wanted specified.

Also, the flash hinder comes with some spacers installed, thusly enabling the owner to adjust the length of the flash hinder. I personally added an o-ring behind the hinder in order to keep it straight.

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The Chef:

 

I'm trying to decide whether to use a 7mm bushing inside the nozzle or to add some extra thread and the locking nut method you describe.

 

How many rounds have you put through your m4 with this variable nozzle method? Does it appear to be holding up to the stress of skirmishes? Did you use threadlock on the locking nut?

 

Any one else had any extended experience using a 7mm bushing inside the nozzle? Can it become dislodged in any way?

 

Cheers for your help.

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Thank you alston.

I just had my nozzle changed due to the fact that I broke it, so I can tell you that it is indeed a very demanding procedure.

Nei buddy. Is not for me, i know how to do it. Just if i would have to explain it over the internet - to much typing if you knoe what i mean.

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I give up, I was going to try and read through and find the answer myself, but on page 55 after a couple of days I give up.

 

Does anyone know if using a spacer behind the nozzle ever worked with any degree of success in order to reduce fps?

 

Cheers for any help, or a nod to the right page number.

 

Here's what I did. Basically a 2.5mm spacer will give around 380fps @ 29C ... You can use ballpen refills as a spacer since those are hard and can be threaded by forcing part 39 in a few times prior to actual installation. I was supposed to CNC this part with threads inside but I had to do a whole lot of testing on the height for my target fps. Right now it's at 2.2mm. Since the part is working well, I dont think i'll have to make this into brass. Another advantage is that the consistency is better since part 42 sits flat after every shot rather than on the tip of part39. Right now its shooting 415's pretty well.

 

img1319qmm.jpg

img1319jdn.jpg

img1320f.jpg

img1321.jpg

img1322f.jpg

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I'm kind of confused... you want some measurements of the barrel from the end of the front sight, but you want me to include the flash hinder? :huh:

 

Anyways, I'll include a small sample of measurements which I hope will be of help:

 

From the tip of the flash hinder to the beginning of the front sight: 162mm.

28918170.jpg

 

Total length of barrel, from the tip of the flash hinder to the upper reciever: 533mm.

28918171.jpg

28918172.jpg

 

Length from the beginning of the front sight to the upper reciever: 369mm.

28918173.jpg

28918169.jpg

 

Let me know if it's what you wanted, or if there was anything else you wanted specified.

Also, the flash hinder comes with some spacers installed, thusly enabling the owner to adjust the length of the flash hinder. I personally added an o-ring behind the hinder in order to keep it straight.

 

Thank you very much! the 1st one is what I needed, as well as the barrel full lenght

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The Chef:

 

I'm trying to decide whether to use a 7mm bushing inside the nozzle or to add some extra thread and the locking nut method you describe.

 

How many rounds have you put through your m4 with this variable nozzle method? Does it appear to be holding up to the stress of skirmishes? Did you use threadlock on the locking nut?

 

Any one else had any extended experience using a 7mm bushing inside the nozzle? Can it become dislodged in any way?

 

Cheers for your help.

 

 

what fps are you trying to lower it too? theres a lower fps part#42 which has 2 small holes rather than being completely open

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Another question.

My magazines are falling down from the rifle. I have fasten everything to max, to have better spring force. But magazines still falling down. They just simply want stay in rifle. After few shakes they are on the ground. I dont see replacement parts on AB web page. Can You suggest replacement from different manufacturers than WE ?

Edited by Nazio

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