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Just traded Spartan XV for this beauty. Better pics when it arrives!

 

I love the white squarejob :P Nice, looks like its a nice bit of kit. My M14 is out of comission for a while untill I get the balls to go and get it fixed! I'm hoping that that will be this weekend, we'll see how gas prices affect that drive. . . .

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Gas prices? Even if it goes up 5 cents before the weekend its still a bargain compared to what its been.

 

Well aside from the fact that the nearest BP Amaco (for me to use my gas card) is in Phoenix there is no way to really get gas except the not so cheapo express fuel stop nearby which is getting more expensive as the day progresses...

 

<Insert Poor College Student Excuse here>

 

We'll see :P

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Well aside from the fact that the nearest BP Amaco (for me to use my gas card) is in Phoenix there is no way to really get gas except the not so cheapo express fuel stop nearby which is getting more expensive as the day progresses...

 

<Insert Poor College Student Excuse here>

 

We'll see :P

 

 

Yes i;m a poor college student to...who spends to much money on airsoft guns. I think i need to have a sale here shortly.

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Yes i;m a poor college student to...who spends to much money on airsoft guns. I think i need to have a sale here shortly.

 

Nice, its too bad I cant keep them in my room, I miss my Precious's. Nothing is stopping me from buying gear though! <Goes to HK webpage and looks at ESS Turbofans. . . .> <looks at bank account>

 

 

 

 

 

 

DOH -_-

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Well aside from the fact that the nearest BP Amaco (for me to use my gas card) is in Phoenix there is no way to really get gas except the not so cheapo express fuel stop nearby which is getting more expensive as the day progresses...

 

<Insert Poor College Student Excuse here>

 

We'll see :P

 

Dude you live in AZ?

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Sorry guys for getting back late. The woodjob is really simple.

 

Here is the "Guide":

 

1. Strip the original plastic brown stock

 

2. Wipe it clean

 

3. Tape/cover the metal inserts

 

4. Get your dremel tool with a sanding tube (not sure about grit size, but get something pretty rough)

 

5. Put on your safety glass (plastic chips to the eye suck)

 

6. Set the dremel to low revs (to avoid plastic melting)

 

7. Start working carefully from the front end underside of the stock towards the buttstock, with long, barely touching strokes, following the "grain" of the fakewood (do not press the dremel on the stock)

 

8. Don't rush anything, work in layers, until the original shiny surface disappears completely and the new texture is distributed evenly. Preserve the original egdes and angles.

 

9. Use hand sanding for the tight corners where the dremel does more harm than good

 

10. Wash the finished stock in water or blow clean with compressed air

 

Everyone who saw it in person said I should leave the stock as it is, no painting, let the normal wear do the job. It feels like unpolished, slightly rough wood to the touch (the color is darker, and less yellowish in real life). My original intention was to play around with the plastic stock then buy quality wood (Titleist's M14 is damn sexy!), but I'll keep the original stock after this mod. It's much slimmer and more comfortable than the wooden TM M14 stocks I handled (so far).

 

That's it, sorry for the crappy english.

 

http://web.axelero.hu/szlejer2/m14a.jpg

http://web.axelero.hu/szlejer2/m14b.jpg

Edited by Trasher
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Sorry guys for getting back late. The woodjob is really simple.

   

Here is the "Guide":

 

1. Strip the original plastic brown stock

 

2. Wipe it clean

 

3. Tape/cover the metal inserts

 

4. Get your dremel tool with a sanding tube (not sure about grit size, but get something pretty rough)

 

5. Put on your safety glass (plastic chips to the eye suck)

 

6. Set the dremel to low revs (to avoid plastic melting)

 

7. Start working carefully from the front end underside of the stock towards the buttstock, with long, barely touching strokes, following the "grain" of the fakewood (do not press the dremel on the stock)

 

8. Don't rush anything, work in layers, until the original shiny surface disappears completely and the new texture is distributed evenly. Preserve the original egdes and angles.

 

9. Use hand sanding for the tight corners where the dremel does more harm than good

 

10. Wash the finished stock in water or blow clean with compressed air

 

Everyone who saw it in person said I should leave the stock as it is, no painting, let the normal wear do the job. It feels like unpolished, slightly rough wood to the touch (the color is darker, and less yellowish in real life). My original intention was to play around with the plastic stock then buy quality wood (Titleist's M14 is damn sexy!), but I'll keep the original stock after this mod. It's much slimmer and more comfortable than the wooden TM M14 stocks I handled (so far).

 

That's it, sorry for the crappy english.

 

http://web.axelero.hu/szlejer2/m14a.jpg

http://web.axelero.hu/szlejer2/m14b.jpg

 

Nice work man! I like that. I noticed too when I was sanding my faux wood stock that it looked better with some sanding lines on it. It looks very realistic and I like it!!!!!

 

+1 your way!

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Right, a couple more questions (read: "lots more" :lol:) for you M14-lovers :)

 

I'm looking into getting some kind of RAS set for the front (mainly because from what I'm reading the normal TM ones looks tacky as hell ;)) ...

 

I'm also looking for a decent-looking way to mount a decent scope of some description...

 

Perusing Redwolf, I've come across this.

 

It looks like the solution to both problems, being a RAS unit and a Scope. Therein lies the rub you see, as that "solution" produces more questions;

 

How does the rear Scope Ring attach to the gun? Looking at Guns 'n' Guys it bolts on to the rear sight, if this is the case, is it fairly sturdy?

 

Is the Scope Illuminated at all? (Red/Green?)

 

What kind of magnification is the Scope?

 

Finally, anyone who's used this, would you recommend it to someone else?

 

[edit]

 

Another question I've just thought of...

 

Is it possible to change the front "scope ring" for a regular scope ring? (to get rid of all the extra rails :P) If so, would specific rings be required?

[/edit]

 

(Apologies if these have been asked before, reading 75+ pages has my head spinning with information :lol:)

 

Another finally (so sue me :P), I've been looking at Tightbore Barrels... Now, I know that M14's have superior range anyway, so I'm looking to capitalise on this, possibly using a Tania Koba Twist Barrel, which from what I've heard, can increase range by as much as a third (could be quite nifty on an M14 :)), has anyone used these and can confirm whether they're any good on M14's or will a regular Tightbore Barrel suffice?

 

Thanks for any info you guys can provide :)

 

[/long post] (:P)

 

:geek:

Edited by BoB SoiL
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