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#WARNING#  #WARNING#  #WARNING#  #WARNING#  #WARNING# 

 

Pictures may not be to high standards

 

#WARNING#  #WARNING#  #WARNING#  #WARNING#  #WARNING# 

There, now Guiness and the other Photo pedants need not look :P;):)

 

That's freakin hil-ar-ious that is..... <_<

 

So I say it's bad form to post blurry, dark, smudgie snapshots in a thread whose sole purpose in life is to showcase gun pictures, and your comic gold is to post clear, focused, well-lit pictures and call me pedantic?

 

Genius!

 

BTW, American Heritage Dictionary defines 'Pedantic' ("pedants") as:

pe·dan·tic (pə-dān'tĭk) Pronunciation Key

adj. Characterized by a narrow, often ostentatious concern for book learning and formal rules: a pedantic attention to details.

 

So that I understand the issue, your position is that it's pedantic and perhaps narrow-minded of me and others to request that a thread devoted to the display and sharing of gun images, contain images that are actually viewable....is that it?

 

wow....just wow. :blink:

 

 

 

Oh and BTW, while I'm being ostentatious I should point out that the name is G-U-I-N-N-E-S-S, as in the one true crowning achievement of mankind, Sir Arthur Guinness's stout.

 

 

 

;) just jokes folks, just jokes :P

 

 

 

 

 

Slainte!

 

 

-G

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LOL The words! :blink:

 

clear, focused, well-lit pictures

 

That's the nicest thing anyone has ever said to me man , I alway's thought my pictures were a bit poor compared to the rest of you lot with your flashy cameras and techniques. :D

 

 

You're right about Guinnes it is the finest alcoholic beverage known to man ^_^ only the normal stuff mind, not this new fangled ice cold rubbish <_<

Although to really appreciate it you have to drink it in Ireland as it doesn't travel quite so well :(

 

 

Here have a nice blurry water colour effect 1911 ;)

 

waterDSC01875.jpg

 

Now heres a question for you, do I post my browning HP in here when it arrives or not?

It's not strictly a 1911 but then it is a John Browning design.

Edited by Sao
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Loving the MEU Sao :) .

 

Makes me a little embarrassed about posting a pic of a bog standard Magna Tech Series '70 but..

 

000_1322.jpg

 

Comes with the faintest trades I've ever seen, I'm not a fan of the grips or the finish of the frame/slide. Having said that it shoots well.

 

Doesn't really matter cause its going to be getting the full metal treatment at some stage anyway ;) .

Edited by Slug Pellets
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There are trades there!? thought it was a WE at first :P.

 

Now I got some tech questions for you regarding TM and WA compatability of small parts.

 

I am in need off some recoil plugs for WA1911's but all I can find so far are recoil rod plugs and I hate those on 1911's. Now I can find std lookign recoil plugs for a TM 1911 but will it fit in my WA? I assume it will, but assumption is the mother of all cockups..

 

Phoenix you got a TM 1911 and WA's you got any idea?

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Maybe be I am getting confused with another retailer but I got a quote for some PDI barells a while ago (I'm sure it was x-fire) and the shipping was more than the value of the goods somewhere along the lines of $68.00

 

Clik, clunk whirrr

 

Hang on.... 'strain' ah yes maybe it was poweredge? I was getting mixed up with.

 

+1's for the help in locating a supplier

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Ok, I've now narrowed the trouble one of my V10's down to the sear.

 

I have 3 available sear's, it seems that one works fine (currently installed in the working gun) one causes the thumb safety to disengage when the trigger is pulled/hammer doesnt fully cock when firing bb's, and the other causes the gun to slip into full auto..

 

I may be a bit stupid but there seems to be absolutely no physical difference between the sears, they appear to all extensive purposes, the same. Yet when I change just this one part then the gun goes haywire in all these different ways.

 

Could anyone shed some light on this? and would a Steel sear solve my problems, Quick responses appreciated..

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sounds like the sears are ever so slightly a different size / shape to each other. So small that you won't really see it with the eye you'd need a set of dial calipers to see it.

 

I have a steel sear and it works fine, others curse them and take them out. I thought my sear was bad but that turned out to be another part (CP disconnector) that was shorter than stock!.

 

Do any of your sears have a small section cut off at the top? Like a notch cut in to allow SCW2 firing pin clearance (from what i can make out) See my little sketched attachment.Sear.pdf

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let me try that again..

 

 

-- Ok, instead of being cut downward, the tip of the sear is a different thickness at one end than the other.. as I kinda show in this picture..

 

 

there is also a little chip in the outer curved surface of the sear..

 

(this is the sear which drops into full auto every now and then)

untitled.bmp

Edited by hardboiledcop
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Ok, I've now narrowed the trouble one of my V10's down to the sear.

 

I have 3 available sear's, it seems that one works fine (currently installed in the working  gun) one causes the thumb safety to disengage when the trigger is pulled/hammer doesnt fully cock when firing bb's, and the other causes the gun to slip into full auto..

 

I may be a bit stupid but there seems to be absolutely no physical difference between the sears, they appear to all extensive purposes, the same. Yet when I change just this one part then the gun goes haywire in all these different ways.

 

Could anyone shed some light on this? and would a Steel sear solve my problems, Quick responses appreciated..

 

I mentioned the thumb safety not engaging issue a few pages back. It happens because Prime's sear pin hole and thumb safety pivot hole are further apart by just a hair than they are supposed to be. The locking bit on the thumb safety can't engage the sear.

 

If I understand how the sear operates, and I think I do, then the full auto can be attributed to the sear or the sear spring. Normally, the sear spring applies pressure on the sear to prevent rotation when the hammer is cocked. The sear will then catch the tooth on the corresponding hammer mech part. When the trigger is engaged, the trigger bar counteracts/alleviates the sear spring to allow the sear to disengage the tooth and allow the hammer to drop. Full auto means that when the hammer recocks, the sear doesn't reengage the tooth, which either is a result from a weak sear spring or sear with abnormal tolerances.

 

Even though the three sears may appear to be the same, you should confirm this by taking measurements. It only takes minute differences, not always noticeable by eye, to throw everything off.

Edited by davedawg123
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it is certainly the sear itself, since swapping the sear from one gun to the other swaps the problem with it, I think I'll definately invest in some steel sears, since the replacement I bought to solve the original problem was a used sear from P360M, meaning I may be dealing with a very finicky gun (ie the sear has to be in perfect nick).

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oldwarhorses1.jpg

 

I like to call the above 'Old Warhorses 1'. Why the 1? Because it's a crappy pic. I plan on doing more artsy versions with natural light.

 

Also seen in this pic are my MK14 Mod 0 EBR and my CKRT First Strike (which is actually the oldest of the group, having been in my service for nigh two years, now).

Edited by Jagdraben
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