DRAGON64 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Fun factor has always been there. The Open bolt series is fairly reliable though. Trigger pack will eventually go but there are plenty of upgrades/spares about. 30rd m4 mags are still a pain in the *albatross* but the shorty mags are solid. Thanks Reppyboyo I went ahead and ordered the rifle and 4-spare mags. Evike had a coupon code for 18% off my order, which indicated to me that the choice to order was almost to good to be true...so I hit the send button. I won't get the rifle till sometime next week, so now the waiting... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 One thing that I find annoying with the new OB system is the lack of spares. The infamous part 66 still breaks (it did it for my G36) and I still can't find spares for it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Foxhound Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) Do you guys know if theres any video on how to adjust the hop up on the open bolt WE M4s or any detailed explanation on how to do it? I heard its pretty difficult so dont want to mess anything up. Any help would be great. Thanks! If not maybe one of you WE experts should make a youtube video of it. I Know I'm not the only one asking about it. Edited February 24, 2012 by Mr Foxhound Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Stick allen key in grub screw adjuster. Turn right for hop. Left for no hop. Easy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Foxhound Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 (edited) Where is this screw loacated? Picture? Sorry for asking, but the manual dosent show how to adjust hop up at all for some reason. Edited February 24, 2012 by Mr Foxhound Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theoutlier Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 1. remove Upper from lower 2. take out the bolt 3. look inside, it is a tiny key-hole located just above the Hop-up chamber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Alternatively use a ball end Allen wrench and do it through the ejection port. (lock the bolt back and have the charging handle back.) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Foxhound Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I have an RA tech NPAS in the little hole. Does that change how it ajusts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 I have an RA tech NPAS in the little hole. Does that change how it ajusts? I'm not sure how your logic works, NPAS is a flute valve, it sits in the nozzle. last time I check, nozzle must be able to seperate from the hopup chamber so that bb can be insert into the barrel. I think that answers your question yes, NPAS has nothing to do with the adjustability ot hopup 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRAGON64 Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 I'm not sure how your logic works, NPAS is a flute valve, it sits in the nozzle. last time I check, nozzle must be able to seperate from the hopup chamber so that bb can be insert into the barrel. I think that answers your question No, this did not answer his question, it was useless... yes, NPAS has nothing to do with the adjustability ot hopup This response directly answered his question... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 No, this did not answer his question, it was useless... This response directly answered his question... I was trying to tell him that he ask a pretty simple question that most should figure it out by logic...and for those who drank to much alcohol the bottom line is there for them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobbcore11 Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 Attention WE users: I am working on a project with a fellow machinist to start producing some higher quality reinforced parts for the WE gbbr series. In order for this project to get started we really need your input, ideas, and support. As of right now we have a slightly modified and stronger metal part #59 for the m4 based trigger units all laid out , but we need your interest to finally get it going and for these high end pieces to start being produced. Please PM me if you would be interested in such a part . Also please post or PM me with other parts you WE users would like to be made. I know Ra-tech and CWI have come out with a few upgraded parts, but have heard mixed reviews on them, so I would really like to know from you what changes need to be made and exactly what parts specifically would you like to be reinforced and produced. For starters we are only looking at putting together some of the smaller parts, so sadly no complete bolts will be on our schedule, but maybe with your support and ideas you can help that become possible sometime down the road. Thanks, COBB 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LordElpus Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 i would suggest looking at the AKs first as they need more help than the M4/G39 based guns. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Again, it'd be nice if there was a steel OB part no. 66 available for use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRAGON64 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 As my M16A3 is out for delivery today, I am trying to think of everything I need to do first before I start loading and shooting; I have read many different variants of maintenance methods for the various WE platforms, and although the methods use different brands or lubes and cleaners, they all seem to follow a basic principle...maintain, maintain and maintain. Do any of you have a link to a tried and true maintenance procedure that is known to be an excellent care guide for WE gas blow backs? I'm looking forward to disecting every piece and cleaning and lubing it all back together... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRAGON64 Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 I took my M16A3 and chrono'd it yesterday. There was planty of facts to consider, as well as notable issues. Here is video of the chrono test session: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qS72b37u3UI&feature=channel_video_title ...and here is a short video of a concern I have with the bolt carrier group: http://youtu.be/PXLmF8kGju0 Can I please get some feedback on the BCG concern? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 regarding the bcg "issue" some say that its better to sand it down so it doesnt catch while it is retracting. but for me its better to leave it as it is cause its a sign that there is a good tight seal between the nozzle and the hop rubber thus making sure that you dont have air leaks. no air leaks means all gas is going to the barrel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cobbcore11 Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Mine does that as well, but have no problems with it sticking, like above post i feel that means eeverything is properly in place... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Again, mine is the same. Nothing to worry about. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rolling-thunder Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 The mag that came with my WE SCAR leaks. I mentioned it to a retailer & he recommended a dip test.Take the outer cover off the magazine & dip the whole magazine under water & look for the bubbles{incidently i haven't got round to doing that yet as i bought CO2 mags off him}.I did strip my mag to have a look at it before testing & was surprised to find that the whole of the spine side of the mag is removable & held in by screws.Apparently there's a large O ring inside which is very easy to put in wrong.It was recommended that i grease the O ring before putting the mag back together,test it & repeat the process if it still leaked.I was under the impression that it was the top valve that was leaking & i haven't found out one way or another at the moment.I'll have to give that a go tomorrow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theoutlier Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 I ve had many leaks from m4 mag. Mostly from the main seal ,Not only that there is more chance of leakage but also orings Are very prone to splitting up( epic Design fail.rlly). So I developed my Own way to remedy this problem. Instead of ordering the same oring as a replacement. Buy a proper industrial orings of 2 mm diameters (they r sold in metres In my country)replace the old 1 with those, cause they r MUCH tougher add some lube and its all set. Mine have had no Single leak since then. U can also try some mods, (there are plenty of em) , Gd luck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 i also use those big orings too. its a bit hard to install at first cause youre pretty much trying to put a round thing in a square canal. i switched back to the stock ones cause the round orings are too thick and is causing the backplate to bend outwards. theoutlier, can you give me the exact oring size you are using? tia! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 (edited) Others use silicone gasket to seal their mags. Not tried this yet. Seriously considering swapping over to the 20rd vn mags as the 30rd ones are a pain in the *albatross*. Edited March 3, 2012 by Reppyboyo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 DRAGON64, the back of the plastic nozzel part has a O-ring on it, the BCG sits like a cap on that, then you fill the cap with expanding gas, and the nozzel can't go forward, so the BCG is pushed backwards and the nozzel stays forward untill the BCG goes so fare back that it opens the piston cup and the nozzel hits the retening parts, only then will the nozzel move back. Now that you understand how it works you can see that your concerns are meaningless. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Theoutlier Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 i also use those big orings too. its a bit hard to install at first cause youre pretty much trying to put a round thing in a square canal. i switched back to the stock ones cause the round orings are too thick and is causing the backplate to bend outwards. theoutlier, can you give me the exact oring size you are using? tia! its a rounded 2mm diatmeter oring.ofcourse its gonna be difficult to install, but i used the special kind of adhesive (same kind i used to glue the 2 ends of the oring chords together)But i guess u can use super glue?. Few drops of those on the backplate and it stays in place. I also have heard some pple with good result on a 1.5 mm ones. so i suggest u try different sizes. Also to help with the installation, always use superlube on the orings and cclamps to hold the mag together. Others use silicone gasket to seal their mags. Not tried this yet. Seriously considering swapping over to the 20rd vn mags as the 30rd ones are a pain in the *albatross*. i tried using bare silicone gaskets and had a horrendous results. But it does good job if u already have oring in place such as this one as it seals all the small gaps the leaks could sprung from. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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