AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread

[MRF]

PiKture thread...

[oRb]

Soon to be finished! M733 GBB!

 

 

 

Of course alot of real stuff.
Bushmaster A1 Upper, Colt 2 Pos. Stock/Tube/Grip/Delta Ring Set

Lower Receiver is Prime and the Frontset G&P WA.

cheers

orb

[NonEx]

Cool, had no idea you were allowed to purchase those items freely in Austria, or maybe you have a license ?

[oRb]

What items you mean?

 

It's not illegal to buy spare real Upper Receivers. Barrels are not allowed or completely assembled Uppers.

Empty Lower Receivers are allowed too.

 

My few other RS Upper:

 

cheers

 

orb

[BaBaBooey]

Soon to be finished! M733 GBB!

 

Bushmaster A1 Upper

 

The upper you might want to search for is Colt's 711 or 715. Some of these where contracted to Diemaco as the C7 upper. They all should have Colt proof markings and are XM Gray. I have seen promotional Colt photos that show 733's that had the standard A1 upper, no brass deflector, and with the transitional large forward assist. Some late Colt Sporter II's also have the same type of upper, but you'll need to get the bushings if they have the large front pivot pin hole. The bushings will fit perfectly on your PRIME lower.

[oRb]

The Colt Uppers are hard to get and very expensive.Never got near a Colt A1 Upper with brass deflector. That's why I bought the Bushmaster. It was just easier and cheaper.

The Bushmaster A1 is a perfect match for a M733. Of course the markings aren't correct but who knows this?

I have some Colt A1 with C H markings but this is for my M653 Build. This Upper cost me a little fortune. Searched a long time for this.

 

cheers

 

orb

Edited January 21, 2013 by oRb

[CplHicks]

 

My almost finished 416

[akiraspeedstar]

Sick 416, though just my OCD kicking in assuming you're left handed, wouldn't the replica GPS be placed upside down? That way if you were to check your location you'd just lean the gun and it would be facing you correctly.

[Finbarqs]

The Colt Uppers are hard to get and very expensive.Never got near a Colt A1 Upper with brass deflector. That's why I bought the Bushmaster. It was just easier and cheaper.

The Bushmaster A1 is a perfect match for a M733. Of course the markings aren't correct but who knows this?

I have some Colt A1 with C H markings but this is for my M653 Build. This Upper cost me a little fortune. Searched a long time for this.

 

cheers

 

orb

the colt "flat top receiver" was fairly cheap, cheaper than airsoft anyways... It even came with the forward assist installed, and the dust cover installed as well. It was going for 169.99USD. 

[thatguy404]

Couple of my T418

Internally just thrown on a TK twist Barrel, and a ultra high torque motor.
Shoots divine!

[WTF?Shane]

[uscmCorps]

Is that the one I recut? This looks ballin'. Have you tried mounting the T-1 with the mount facing the other direction? I've seen a couple SF guys do it. Looked pretty cool.

[WTF?Shane]

Is that the one I recut? This looks ballin'. Have you tried mounting the T-1 with the mount facing the other direction? I've seen a couple SF guys do it. Looked pretty cool.

 

Yes, it is. Thanks again for the help!

 

About the mount, I've seen them mounted both ways. I believe it slanting forward like you mentioned would be the proper way, as it is meant for use with NODs.

 

Edit: Pic for pic thread. Bad camera angle makes guns look odd. The mount is Knight's Armament high NVG mount for Aimpoint Micro sights.

 

Edited January 23, 2013 by WTF?Shane

[RacingManiac]

What kind of mount is that? 

[wwjkc]

i think it's the Knight's Armament Aimpoint Micro High NVG Quick Detach Mount

 

http://www.operationparts.com/KAC_Knight_s_Armament_Aimpoint_Micro_High_Mount_p/30102.htm

 

and of course, primary arms aimpoint replica can fit too

 

dytac makes one also:

 

http://www.dytac.hk/index.php?route=product/product&path=18_43&product_id=361

 

you can use those china made or g&p aimpoint t1 replica on it

[uscmCorps]

I received my sample Combat Series URX III Deluxe AEG in Multicam from DYTac. I haven't had a chance to test fire it yet, but so far the finish isn't horrible. Here I'm trying it out with various accessories:

 

 

I've shot Chris' real gun that this is based on (I think that was over a year ago now). This looks very close.

[bladerunner168]

Corps - who's the OEM?

[hitmanNo2]

uscm, where do you stand on the whole PEQ units are designed for the top rail, and they should be at the furthest most point on the rail otherwise you're diffusing the dangerous IR laser (if high class)?

[emp3ror86]

Isn't that AEG a bit overpriced for 537 USD? Apart from the Multicam paint, Magpul stuff and URX 3 copy it is just a regular V2 AEG, right?

[thatguy404]

Dytac do sell their AEGs, 11.1 lipo Ready though.
Pretty solid ROF out the box from what I have seen!

[frogfish]

uscm, where do you stand on the whole PEQ units are designed for the top rail, and they should be at the furthest most point on the rail otherwise you're diffusing the dangerous IR laser (if high class)?

Technically it should be far forward, but the DBAL sits higher than a PEQ2, PEQ15, and PEQ16 and can get in the way of the sight picture pretty easily when its mounted way forward. Where USMC has it mounted it dosen't interfere much, thats where mine is on my AR, anywhere else and I start seeing black box rather than target. Edited January 23, 2013 by frogfish

[Paul202]

That's an awesome gun, I assume the camo was done by the OEM?

[uscmCorps]

Corps - who's the OEM?

DYTac produce their own exteriors (receivers, rails, barrels, flashhiders etc). I don't know about the interior. I think they have a separate OEM for the gearbox and associated parts, or they might be buying in bulk from another manufacturer. I don't know.

Isn't that AEG a bit overpriced for 537 USD? Apart from the Multicam paint, Magpul stuff and URX 3 copy it is just a regular V2 AEG, right?

The Magpul stuff is all genuine parts. That adds a certain dollar value. And the water transfer coating with authentic Crye Precision film adds more (as does the coating labor). A better way to analyze the base cost of the gun would be to look at their all black, non-magpul accessorized gun:

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/dytac-combat-series-uxr-iii-m4-aeg-standard-ver-black.html

 

That ^^^ costs $395. Is that gun worth $395? That's subjective. If you classify this as an ACM gun, then perhaps no (however, material costs and labor costs being what they are, even ACM guns have increased in price, some almost doubled). That said, having dug around the inside of one of the DYTac guns in the past, it didn't appear to be the quality of an ACM gun (maybe the gearbox shell, but then again, some ACM gearbox shells like Cymas are surprisingly very nice). It comes with 8mm Bearings, and other decent internal parts. The hop up is all metal, well cast, and comes with a H-nub as standard. The idea is basically you don't have to go out and spend another $100-$150 to upgrade it. It already is decently upgraded inside from the factory (in some ways moreso than some other non-ACM manufacturers). It's all subjective. You just need to break down what you want your gun to be in both looks and performance, how much would it cost to get there, and if this gun does the job for less coin out of your pocket. If you feel you can get there for less and are okay with building it yourself, then you have your answer. These guns are selling relatively well in Asia but especially well in Japan. They have yet to reach EU and the US in quantity, but based on the sales in other regions there are a lot of people that do feel it's worth the cost. Whether or not it is to you, only you can answer that.

uscm, where do you stand on the whole PEQ units are designed for the top rail, and they should be at the furthest most point on the rail otherwise you're diffusing the dangerous IR laser (if high class)?

ETA: just a note about class-III IR diffusion ... I'm not worried about blinding myself with it as it takes a lot of concentrated energy to do that (i.e. a direct hit/charge from the concentrated beam). Diffusion is generally not a concern in this regard to personal health (not mine anyway). It is however if you're laser designating and someone's about to drop some hell on your position cuz they got confused where they're supposed to drop the ordanance on. More later ...

 

Technically it should be far forward, but the DBAL sits higher than a PEQ2, PEQ15, and PEQ16 and can get in the way of the sight picture pretty easily when its mounted way forward. Where USMC has it mounted it dosen't interfere much, thats where mine is on my AR, anywhere else and I start seeing black box rather than target.

 

You ask a bunch of different SF dudes and you'll get a bunch of different answers. First and foremost, the top, left, right and bottom positioning. On a real firearm most laser devices are designed (rated) to work around the recoil impulse with the laser in the same vertical plane as the gun (top or bottom). Placing it on the left or right won't invalidate the warranty, but most are designed by the manufacturer to deal with the forces exerted from them when placed at the top of the rail. I've seen people mount them at very hour on the clock and not heard of any ill effects, so take that with a grain of salt. There's also a question of adjusting for bore alignment. ITAL (Inline) type lasers you generally only adjust for one plane out to a certain yardage. OTAL (Offline) type lasers (like DBALs and ATPIALs, etc) you need to start accounting for two planes. There are always pros and cons for either one. But placing the laser at the 12 or 6 will definitely make those details simpler to adjust and account for.

 

Now let's look at the laser placement along the length of the rail. I've placed the laser behind my support hand and forwards of the optic a lot. The benefit to this is obviously you're using unused rail space which alleviates the front of the rail for attachments and your support grip. But then you are also faced with a couple hard questions: (1) Splash ... you run the risk of the laser lighting up anything forwards of your laser (be it your hand or the rail and accessories, or even your cover). If you're a guy that needs to laser designate ... that could be really bad when the ordinance comes in. If you're a guy that is running close quarter engagements, that could be an unnecessary distraction to you and your teammates. Splash is generally bad and needs to be avoided. (2) running that far back you also run the risk of obscuring the laser or illuminator or both with your grip. Some laser aiming units I have are visible laser on one side and IR laser on the other. So you basically (potentially) sacrifice the use of one of those if your hand blocks it. Some units I have, are visible laser, IR laser, and IR illuminator. The two lasers are (usually) co-aligned on one side so chances are, I'll just be blocking the IR illuminator and I could just get a secondary IR illuminator mounted at the front to take care of target ID'ing. All of this can fail of course if you switch shoulders. Being a right handed shooter, if I switch to left handed shooting I'm now blocking all my lasers. Which would be an epic fail. I've run the laser in many positions and though I don't like the aesthetic of it, I generally run the laser on my guns as far forwards as the rail will allow, behind the front iron sight and with the laser's on board manual switch accessible by my thumb. That way I don't have as much concern with splash, all the functions of the laser and illuminators (if the unit has it) are still functional and I don't need a tape switch (I think it was the northern red (SF) guys who told me how they don't bother with tape switches anymore as they wear out on them so quickly and just use the on board switch).

 

Basically, what I'm learning from guys who do this for real with countless no light DA missions under their belts is that the preference would be to have an IR laser + IR Illuminator unit (like the new DBAL-D2 which has one of the nicest IR illuminators) forwards of your grip and behind the front irons (but with the on board button within support thumb reach), and a secondary white-light-only flashlight (be it tape switch activated or rear clicky (X400/X400V, Inforce wouldn't be a bad choice). That way your IR setup works for stealth ... and once you go loud, have lost the element of stealth and there's no reason to maintain no light discipline, go with white light. This is of course dependent on how much real estate you have on your rail forwards of your support hand grip. And much more importantly this is simply what I have learned myself over time from using the kit, from courses I've attended, from talking to guys who do this for real ... regardless, you should absolutely take all this with a grain of salt. Like all things, everyone has their own opinion (especially in the tactical world) of what is ideal or works best, and it really comes down to what works best for the user and the parameters for which they use the kit. Like I said these are simply my observations from personal experience and learning from others, but I'm just an ordinary guy. My only advice would be to try the laser unit you have in every conceivably position, train with it, and figure out what suits you and run with that till you find a better solution.

 

A really good resource to look at would be the new Panteao Productions video with Chappy from LMS in which he goes over using NODs and aiming devices in general. Good consolidation of info.

 

That's an awesome gun, I assume the camo was done by the OEM?

Yeah. In the beginning, DYTac outsourced the water transfer process for all their products. At one point they moved the work in house to cut costs. The consumer didn't like the quality of their in house work so now they've outsourced the work again. The quality on this printing is better than the work I've seen them do in the past. Their work is very flat/matte looking though compared to some of the US based work I've seen. The film DYTac is uses is authentic however, it looks a little lighter than some of the US based work I've seen as I believe they use a little less clear coat (which tends to darken the finish) as they find it directly affects the tolerances. They mentioned that they already had to modify certain parts like the selector and mag catch to ensure good fitment accounting for the Mulitcam film layer and clear coat. At least I'm not concerned about the finish flaking off .. which was a concern with some of their previous work.

Edited January 23, 2013 by uscmCorps

[frogfish]

meh, I don't use mine enough to follow all that logic. I use mine for giggles with NODs while shooting holes paper or the occasional varmint animal in the back country.

 

 

Most of my shooting is done without NODs though so its more important to me that its as minimally in my sight picture as possible. I've toyed with real 16s and a T-1 and way up there on my rail they are fine, but the DBAL just sits way to high.

Edited January 23, 2013 by frogfish

[uscmCorps]

For me it's 50/50. I take a lot of courses that are geared towards LE, MIL and civvie home defense. I take those from the standpoint of further educating myself but also for personal enjoyment, how it applies night shoot competitions and also for airsoft. To run a DBAL you definitely need your optic mounted high though (like an LT660) and even then it's still in your lower 1/6th of the optic window. It's never been an issue for me and my sight picture and that includes shooting out to 600 yards in day light with the DBAL or PEQ on the top of the gun.

 

ETA ... To answer a few questions:

* Gearbox and all associated internals are manufactured by Cyma to DYTac's spec, and assembled by hand in HK by HK airsoft smiths (same guys often used for G&P and others). Designed to shoot at 350 fps on 0.2g BBs.

* HopUp unit and bucking/rubber is currently Cyma's (all metal version) but will later be switched to DYTac's own hopup unit and rubber.

* Preinstalled H-nub is DYTac's own.

* 380mm inner barrel with a 6.04mm inner diameter.

 

All guns are personally QC'ed by the DYtac CEO and gunsmiths before shipment.

Edited January 24, 2013 by uscmCorps