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RWA Nighthawk steel 1911 with machined rs Heinie tritium sights, stainless threaded insert (to match this two tone oddness), grey Magpul grip panels!  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well Aitch,

 

they both turned out perfect, I bet your more than pleased with them ;-)

 

I took some new photos of my CDPs, so hard getting the light right with those silver slides.

 

Great to see some new 1911 shots, a bit of a drought this year with not many new kits on the market, I'm sure anyone who bought a Nova kit last year is fairly pleased with themselves now.

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It's SD frame/slide with some nova bits, it's lovely and shoots like a beast, I prefer stock internals but the Detonics kicks like a mule on smack :P

 

The CDP II is gorgeous, it is the nicest kit I've cobbled together, I'm hoping Nova re-release S70 kits soon so I can grab one of each flavour, I've 2 stock guins sat waiting for new clothes :D

 

I really do have too have much 1911 now, so much I tried selling one, my SA LDC Operator, no-one wanted to buy it, n ot that I'm dissappointed :P

 

So I'm holding ....

Guarder Springfield FBI bureau model, cheap but very nice,

Guarder Stainless SA TRP

Nova CDP II

Nova SA V12

Nova SA LDC

Nova Colt Commander

Nova Kimber Warrior

Nova Kimber Custom

PGC 1911A1

AS/ProG4 Infinity single stack

SD Detonics

Stock TM S70 and S70 Nickel,

 

I've money tucked away in anticipation of new Nova kits appearing if I'm quick enough to get them (IF) :D

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i hate it when people normally say stuff like this, but thats a lot for a pistol when you (well, us 'mericans) can get a real one for under half that price. but it must be one hell of a shooter once you also add Volante's Merlin BBU.

I agree. Most of the time a argument like that falls short.  I can even understand when you drop say close to a grand on a really nice GBBR like a Viper or Bomber. But for a pistol that does seem quite high. They're barrel slide kits are 700$ alone which also seems a bit high. 

 

Maybe it's just me but I feel when you get over 500$ invested in a single pistol (not including magazine cost) you start venturing into overkill territory.

But I guess I shouldn't be one to talk since i wanna eventually get that Tanaka M327 with the Iron Airsoft metal kit, which will be in the 700-800$ range and how I would love to eventually get a set of RS crimson trace Master Series lasergrips that have the miniaturized laser to accommodate ambidextrous safety's which alone would run me 400$.

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tumblr_n7ow81pnvT1tynpqto1_1280.jpg

 

Started off as a TM series 70

  • silverback laser grips
  • TM Night warrior hammer
  • re-profiled grip safety tail (to allow the hammer to work

I think it needs a new trigger, but apart from that I like where it is.

My aim is to make it a sort of “tactical concealment” pistol. something that would look just as much at home on the hip of a plainclothes detective as it would in the holster of a special forces door kicker.

 

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I have a question for anyone that has a WE M1911a1.... I can engage my thumb safety even though my hammer is not cocked.  Is that normal or is something wrong with my gun?

 

Does the half cock still work (the hammer holds half way between loaded and down if thumbed back)?

 

Can you still pull the trigger when the hammer is down and the safety is 'on'.

 

It might be nothing major assuming the safety still works.

 

'FireKnife'

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From what I can remember you should be able to but not all the way.. are you sure its travelling all the way to the locked position? 

 

yezzir.  I can engage the safety all the way even though the hammer is up.  Then I can pull the hammer down, and the safety that's already engaged will prevent the hammer from firing.  lol

 

Does the half cock still work (the hammer holds half way between loaded and down if thumbed back)?

 

Can you still pull the trigger when the hammer is down and the safety is 'on'.

 

It might be nothing major assuming the safety still works.

 

'FireKnife'

 

Half cock still works.

 

I can't pull the trigger when hammer is down and safety is "on," which is all that really matters I suppose.

 

Everything works, but I'm just wondering if this is normal for the WE M1911a1 since my TM Hi-capa thumb safety can only be engaged with the hammer down.

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You guys might like this...

 

http://blog.wilsoncombat.com/uncategorized/wilson-combat-christmas-giveaway/

 

 

combat_auto.jpg

The Combat Auto, by Bill Wilson

 

When you sign up below, you will get an email asking you to confirm your email address. Once you confirm your email address, you will receive a final email with a link to download the PDF version of the book.

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Half cock still works.

 

I can't pull the trigger when hammer is down and safety is "on," which is all that really matters I suppose.

 

Everything works, but I'm just wondering if this is normal for the WE M1911a1 since my TM Hi-capa thumb safety can only be engaged with the hammer down.

 

Just sounds like a bit of shoddy WE design then to me.

 

If it still lets you carry cocked and locked then yeah should be ok.

 

'FireKnife'

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Can't beat the TM plastic for beating up on and skirmishing.

 

14511882613_ef70712060_b.jpg

 

Hoping to use this for some nice, dark CQB one day.  Got to actually *fruitcage* find a compatible light-bearing holster that'll work with my gear first... oh look a flying pig...

Here's one for ya :) 

 

http://www.tactical-kit.co.uk/fobus-lightlaser-bearing-holster-emcem17-colt-1911--glock-17-10656-p.asp

 

I would be tempted to use a lanyard with it thou :) 

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I truly think only fire can stop my 1911s working :P.

 

Saying that as for holsters the EMC is about the best bet. TM kinda made the rail a bit of an odd spec and so most conventional plastic holsters need a bit of fitting / shaping.

 

Thankfully the EMC ignores the rail / light and holds on to the slide and trigger guard area making it a good holster for various light options.

 

As for mounting it on the likes of MOLLE well there is always the mounting plate that you can buy.

 

'FireKnife'

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These are mine 1911's

the MEU pistol,

and The KIMBER DESSERT WARRIOR

both from Army, full metal gbb's

i find there very wel finished and detailed.

And as far as i know the only brand wich offers authentique markings

in the low price category (about €80)!

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